I am sure you could do this..You'd need a relay for sure. But I am not sure what will activate a signal at 3K.. Might sound odd too though changing...

 

Wiring it wouldn't be too hard (or atleast the concept) it would be the same as window switch with nitrous it only opens when your under 3k rpms but that cut out motor wouldn't make it a month. Im over 3k just going through the gears or atleast get to it with normal driving. So it would be opening and closing way too much. I say just deal with the fact that you bought a V6 and it will never sound like a V8. Im not trying to be insulting its just trying to make my point.

 

No offense taken here. I got worked over by the dealership, just like many other poor souls. I was SO ready to get out of the stupid little Sebring that I didn't want to shop around and I was unprepared (ie: I didn't do my research). It was dark and the rep told us that he thought it was the 4.7. Didn't realize it was the 3.6 until it was too late. I have nobody to blame but myself. Only 2 more years on this note, though.

But, back on track here... I'm a very light, almost granny, driver. I've been watching this closely for a few months now, taking mental notes, and trying to work the details out in my head. The only time I go over 3k RPM's is when I'm racing the engine, gunning it to pass someone, etc. 99% of my driving is Dallas city driving, though, so not much engine racing is had. Normal gear shift is right at the 3k mark under my normal driving conditions. I could trigger it more around 3.5k if I had to. Basically, I want it triggered right at the extreme of my normal shift points.

 

Oh, and to add, I have sound clips of when I was running no muffler in my gallery. It should give a good understanding how the truck sounds DECENT under low RPM's and then like a stupid fart cannon at higher RPM's.

 

The only way i could think of to do it is the window switch method. The problem with that is I don't know of anyone that has installed one on a 3gen ram its not easy to do. Even if you could get it to close when you hit that rpm i don't know how you would stop the motor from staying open and keep pushing it open which would burn the electric motor up fast. and then the same for when you go back under that rpm. Im not very good at wiring so maybe you can come up with something better. Its a cool idea if it works. ill send you a link to how to wire a window switch if you want

 

Yeah, that would be cool zemog. It's at least worth a look. I'm proficient in wiring, but nowhere near an expert. I would have figured there would be an easy way to do it (though I have no idea how), but if not, then I'll just run a switch like normal.

 

http://zex.com/Base/Instructions/ZEX169.pdf

here you go

 

This is an interesting idea that has to many practical hurdles to make it feasible.

 

Truth be told, I was thinking it could have been as simple as getting some sort of dual-throw, highly sensitive, lightweight switch and drilling it in place on the actual Tach display where I wanted. Then when the needle went over the 3k mark, it would physically flip the actuator to open the cutout and when it went below the 3k mark, it would flip the actuator again to close it. But I guess that was quite the fairytale thought, huh? Hehehehe.

 

It's a good idea. Unfortunately the cutout motor would neither respond fast enough nor have a duty cycle able to handle that many activation cycles for any length of time.

 

So I suppose I will just stick with the original method of design and just control it manually. If I know I'm going to have to go over 3k RPM (like when passing or entering a freeway), I'll switch it off. Would likely only be 2-5 times a day. Would the motor be up to the task of that much work?

 

if you were really planning on doing this, they make a sort of LED laser that only has enough power to go like 6inches, and it recognizes when things pass through it. you could put this in front of your RPM gauge, and aim it for say the 3.5k mark. this would trigger the cutout to open/ close.

the cutout motor is really the major problem here

nice to see someone else from tiny little rockwall :rck:

 

Rockwall, huh? Small world! I actually moved last January and just haven't updated my profile. I live in Fate now, which is just up the interstate between Rockwall and Royse City.

 

haha gotcha. im up there alot to hang with friends

 

Another way to set up the electrical portion of this is to use a PLC (programmable logic controller).
No doubt there is a variable signal produced as your RPM's increase to let the computer know what's going on for engine managment. If you could identify this signal and note what it produces at 3000 RPM, you could then set the inputs on your PLC to close contacts above that threshold and then to open again when you go below.
The hard part is identifying the signal and then monitoring it. You would need a good scanner at the least. Then you would have to select your PLC accordingly.

Sounds like fun!

 

Yep, that is how I would do it. I am sure that it's just a simple voltage recieved by the tach that tells the needle where to go. When you hit the voltage equal to 3000 rpm, you could activate a relay. The problem is that the cutout's work on a momentary switch and using this method, you'd be driving the motor for the full duration of time above 3000 rpm. Then when you transition below 3000, all it would do is remove the drive signal from the cutout motor. That would not close the cutout, but just leave it in the open position.

Honestly the way to make this work is a circuit like I mentioned with a simple relay, but instead of a motor-driven cutout valve, you need a normally-closed non-latching solenoid. It would open fully in an instant, and would stay open as long as you were above 3000. Then it would instantly close as soon as you got below 3000 and the excitation voltage from your relay ceased. Unfortunately I have no idea if anyone actually makes a cutout like this. I'm sure you could find an industrial valve that is solenoid operated like this but the cost is an unknown to me. And probably not cheap.

 

PLC's are more than capable of reacting to a "pulse" or momentary signal, it's all in how you program it to react. There are literally thousands of possible combinations of signals and reactions.

I would think the voltage that operates the tach needle is very small and getting a traditional electro mechanical realy to react to it at only the exact voltage needed would be nearly impossible. Relay coils have an optimal voltage as well as a much lower "drop out" voltage. Most will typically work between 80 and 110% of their rated voltage. That's a pretty big window, making any fine tuning impossible or difficult at best.