Remove Transmission Valve Body Assembly:

1. Shift transmission into neutral.

2. Raise vehicle on an appropriate hoist

3. For Dakota (AN) vehicles: Disconnect the exhaust Y-pipes from the exhaust manifolds and then lower the front part of the exhaust system.

4. Remove the gearshift and throttle levers from the valve body manual lever shaft.

5. For 46RE Transmission: Disconnect the wires from the solenoid case connector (Figure 1).

6. Position a drain pan under the transmission oil pan.

7. Remove the transmission oil pan and gasket.

8. Remove the three screws that secure the fluid filter to the valve body and remove the filter.

9. Remove the bolts that attach the valve body to the transmission case.

10. Lower the valve body enough to remove the accumulator piston and springs.

11. Work the manual lever shaft and electrical connector out of the transmission case.

12. Lower the valve body, then rotate the valve body away from the case, pull the park rod out of the sprag and then remove the valve body

 

I did this job and its easy but very messy. A little advise get a drain kit.my 2 cents

 

traub....i have a 99 5.9 and i have been having the exact same problem the last week...so today i took it to the dealership because I know nothing about trannys and they seem to think its the solenoid as well...also not to high jack ur thread....but does anyone know how common this problem is? And also, what should i expect to pay for labor plus the new solenoid? And just to be clear, all of this work is easily accessible from the valve body without dropping the tranny out right? thanks..hope everything works out with your problem!

 

I can't confirm about the specific problem that was described. But I can tell you I had to drop the VB 3 times. 1st because of a wrong move I did during a band adjusting, 2nd to reroute the cables from from the soleniod and realized that I did not screw the G solenoid plates tight enough (at this point I lost 4th gear, Check light came on and got a code), 3rd was to install a shift kit. Never did I had to drop the tranny!
btw part came out to $85.00 advanceauto.

 

Out of all the years (over 25)of working on Chrysler automatics,I have never had a bad OD/TCC solenoid pack causing a no OD condition.

..............................but there is always a first time!

 

Just to confirm, on the picture posted, on the upper right top where the plate with the 5 screws are located. that plate was loose causing the 4th gear loss.

 

Just to confirm, on the picture posted, on the upper right top where the plate with the 5 screws are located. that plate was loose causing the 4th gear loss.

Here is a better pic:

 

Yup thats the one!! the housing cover plate was loose.
As far as the thread goes: once that VB is dropped exchanging the soleniod is cake.

 

Just thought I'd ring in............for the last 2-3 months I have been reading the posts about the shift solenoids. I have been having the same problems where it will rev up before it shifts(like the trans is in N) and when you lift a little it will shift In most cases it will only do this one cycle of shifts......but in my case if I let the D warm up it would not be as bad.

Now it seems that I have lost passing gear when I STEP on the pedal to enguage the passing gear it will rev high in the RPM scale before it wants to go anywhere. It also seems to be shifting into 2nd and 3rd fast like back to back.

I reamber working at an auto parts store and every once and a while someone would ask for the detend cable that connects at the TB linkage and shifts the trans...........could this be ann issue????
_________________________________________________________________
Last summer at the very start of summer I did change the fluid and there was some sludge on the magnet and I put in the new dodge +4. The only thing I DID NOT DO was adjust the bands. :help:

 

It sounds like you might be losing 2nd gear.
Try tightening the TV cable and see if it helps.
You might need a band adjustment also.

 

Man I hope not...... how do I adjust the TV cable......and I have not looked into adjusting the bands myself how indepth is it?? Also the sludge in the pan and on the magnet does that meen that the trans is garbage????

 

Sludge in the pan is not good. Look at the attached PDF file for TV adjusting

 

I had the same problem for a while and im getting closer to fixing that slip. So far major factors are Fluid & filter check, Band adjusting, and TV cable.

To adjust the TV cable:
expecting you know where the cable is located and how to remove the locking tab already. Pull the cable (outward) toward the firewall for a longer/firmer shift and (inward) toward the radiator for softer/shorter shifts. Feel each shift on light and medium throttle. Note: adjust every 1/8th and test (trust me each 1/8th makes a big difference)

Band adjustment is also important, if you have not had them done yet get em done. you can search for "band adjust" and get some results.

 

tactransman

Sorry if this long..... but I've added more info

Did the TV adjustment.....and now its shifting from 1st to 2nd with just a little free rev. but when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd it feels like it shifting mutiple times. Then sometimes it will grab and the RPM scale will go high while the acclration is slow.....still no passing gear. Which brings me to this point if I depress the pedal just a little I will fell it shift down and I'll have acclaration but if I get in the pedal theres no passing gear.

A few weeks ago I posted with 2 codes
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P1765 Transmission 12V Supply Relay Control Circuit Fault
I put a new batt. in and had the ALT tested which tested good. The codes were cleared and all seemed fine.

I tried calling 2 shops to see how much it would be to do a band adjustment and 1 shop a dodge dealer no less told me there were no bands inside this trans and all adjustments have to be done with a computer. " I was like I've read a lot of info on the bands I was just calling to see how much it would cost" He then went on to say I could have a dinostic done for $100.00.

The next place I called was a local trans shop. Who said they could adjust the bands but it may get worse. Then went on to tell me about a seal that overtime fails. Then informed me that they could rebuild it and the price would be $1,500- $2,000..........TILT I can get a rebuilt for that.

I'm a little shaky when it come to tranys for some reason.....I rebuilt my engine a year or two ago so I can do some if not most repairs myself......I'm willing to throw parts at it but there come a certain point where throwing parts at it gets expensive. I fell like I have muti symptoms and not sure what route I should take.....part of me wants to throw parts at it and the other half of me wants to take it in and have it scaned. :SPIN: :dunno:

PLEASE ADVISE

 

I would take the pan off and check the condition of the intermediate band.

This is the band with the VB removed. You do not have to remove the VB to check it,you just can't see as much of it. If the drum surface looks scored (lines on it) the band is metal to metal.
Pull on the lever that the long strut is attached to,if it is VERY loose, the band is probably shot.

 

I know this sucks but the only time I have to do something like that would be on a weekend and this weekend4/12 is gone I have to pack for a bussiness trip to FL so I won't be able to look at it till the 26th.....if it lasts that long.

I keep updating when possable

THANKS

 

Have a safe trip!

 

I will Thanks.........hopefully it will hold together that long. Could you give me some info on flushing the lines a shop I called said that's a MAJOR issue when it comes to the durango.
As of now I have only called 1 and the quote was 1,895+tax installed,Oh and cash and carry just for the trans 1,693. Thats just a standard rebuild if I want HD clutch kit and shift kit 500 and up extra.

 

tactransman

Well,

I took the D in to a trans shop today and they confirmed that there is no 2nd gear. All said and done $2,000.00 :bawl:

 

Man im sorry to hear that!! Honestly in my position I could not afford to trust the tranny shop and would have switched out all the soleniods. What would I have to lose at that point. Good luck buddy.