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My Hard wire details

13K views 7 replies 7 participants last post by  RustyPW08  
#1 ·
Pic 1
Here is the wire coding for the front and back lockers you will only need two wires per locker, all are Yellow/** with a colored stripe on them. Source is HOT, Return is Ground.

I used Quick connects (supplies pic) to splice in my wires, that way I did not have to cut them, and I could remove for warranty issues. (I do not have a warranty any more). If you are new to Quick Connects, there are different sizes, get the ones for your wire.
I used 12 ga. Wire and connect. One of the sides to the quick connect goes all the way thru, the other one goes half way. The one that goes all the way thru should be on your locker wire. I used the below switches for I had two in the tool box, you can use what you want, but I wanted a Light switch, to know I have them on. note: these switches will not tell you when you are engaged, only that power is going to the locker. But..you will know. :rck: when they are locked. Refrain from locking on dry concrete or asphalt, you lockers can take it but your tires may not. :nono


Pic Last
Supplies:
Elect tape
Shrink wrap
Fuse conection
Switches ( you wish)
Splicers, connectors
Wire Black, and Red


Pic 2
Your Rear locker wires are right below the floor board on the driver side. I just opened up the wire cluster and pulled out the two I needed.

Pic 3
Your Front locker wires can be found just under your Brake Master cylinder.

I ran a Power wire from my Battery (I would suggest that you run it from a Key On Fuse in your Fuse box.) Just in case you leave the locker switch on…

I ran the power wire to the switches (install the 30 amp fuse between the switches and the Power source (in an easy place to get to incase it blows). My switch had three connections
Power - +
ACC - Locker wire
Ground – to make the light work


Splice into your Front and rear locker wires and run the Red (Power) and Black (grd) up into your cab with plenty of room (extra wire).
Depending on where you want to mount your switch, you will need to remove some dash components. There is a Youtube on dash removal on 2006 dodge trucks, it is a good video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQVwArVWcHE

I drilled two holes to mount my switches. I ran both Black wires from the lockers to a ground bolt just under my transfer case shifter. I ran the Power wire (Red) to the inline fuse and the split it so I could hook it to both switches. Then I ran a Ground wire from each switch (for lights) to a another ground Bolt in the same area.

If you have issues, just PM Me and we can talk in more detail. I am no elect pro, but took my time and figured it out.

I am still working on the Original switch, I am sure that it goes straight to the Dumb Bar, so I will have to do some more investigating. The Switch is easy to get to once to take the dash apart. I have some pics I will share later.
 

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#2 ·
Excellent write up! Thank you
 
#8 ·
#3 ·
I'm still waiting to see if somebody can crack the factory switch. Once that's figured out then I'm going to take a serious look at this mod.
 
#6 ·
I agree that I want the Factory switch to work, and that is my next project, but I had to have lockers for this activity. And due to my travel lately (Singapore, Malaysia) it has been difficult to work on the main switch. It will be a challenge due to the Dumb Bar.

The Smart bar is a Great idea and mine works great, but the circuit board inside of it close to the ground and out in the eliments seems to be the main issue.