Is there an Infinity amp in your D or are the wires direct to the speakers? This is a problem I haven't heard of in years. If there is an amp, your can try an inline filter, I still have a couple of them but they're RCA, you'd need to splice them in, no RCA jacks on factory radios I've ever seen.

 

This is a grounding issue. Make sure all grounds for the stereo have a good connection to the chassis, as well as your battery.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I decided to take the deck out again and check my connections. When I initially installed the deck, the harness I bought didn't match up with the connector (pre-loaded with speaker wires, etc) that plugs into the stock deck, so I actually cut the connector off my harness and spliced each wire together with the stock one that plugs into the deck. After about an hour and a half, I had finally gotten the wires correctly spliced and taped with electrical tape.

So just now, I took the deck out and started playing with the wires to see if it would do anything to the noise, which it did. Holding all the wires in my fist and tightening would stop the sound, letting go again would start it up. Furthermore, playing with each pair of wires for each speaker (Front L, Front R, etc) would sporadically cause the sound to start/stop for that specific speaker. So I un-spliced each pair of speaker leads and re-connected them with those twist cone-shaped wire splicer ends instead of electrical tape. I did that with all four pairs of speaker wire, and it seems to have fixed the problem (at least for the 4-5 engine starts that I did).

If the problem persists, I'll check my grounds. Thanks again for the tips!

And to think, I've been putting up with the sound for this many years, and 30 minutes is all it took (so far).

 

Ahh memories. You'll want to run at least a #14 ground to the steel of the dashboard from the radio. If the radio is your only amp you'll want a #14 for the red wire as well because the factory wiring is only get this: a whopping #20 for the hot lead. So that has to come direct from the battery as all factory wiring is using their capacity. The swithced lead is a #16 but you're not gonna use much there so that's ok, it's just for turn-on signals.

That's good you solved it, I had to stop to talk to you know who or else! But this would still apply to get the most power from your system.

 

Thanks! The only ground I've done is the stock one, which I screwed to the metal of my radio deck (it already had an eyelet on the end). You're saying I should also splice in a ground from the red lead to the steel of the dash?

 

I never took the stock amp out, so I assume it's still in the line somewhere. Do you have a wiring diagram for it (or at least know which color pairs of wire go to the amp)? I would think that now, with only 4 speakers and the deck, it would actually do good to stay where it is. What do you think? I haven't messed with it.

 

You solved the ignition noise, right? If so, just leave it alone. You can't splice the red to the steel, that's the positive lead. It would go to the battery with a fuse in-line.

 

Thanks again. I'll just leave it since it seems to be fixed then.

It's been a while, I missed the forums!