Around here Ram Man it would cost 1200-1500 for the job turn key. The part you probably dont want to hear is the hard parts will be 200.00,(the rest is all labor), or so depending on how many stock parts you want replaced with ultra heavy duty stuff like a deep pan or bolt in sprag,(recommended for a high horsepower big block), Kolene Race or standard Steels, Specialty clutch packs ect..as a minimum I would use a deep pan, brass filter, bolt in sprag, Kolene Hi-Perf. clutch pack and steels. A&A transmissions or John Cope would be especially helpful in that area, then you could have it installed at your shop. Or let your shop do the build. Either way it isnt cheap but highly necessary to enjoy your Runner without worry. I didnt mention the stock torque convertor which is a factory high stall unit and could be flushed and reinstalled if the snout is undamaged and it holds pressure OK.

 

Hi Ram Man,
Summit Racing sells high performance 727s for around $1000.
If you have a '66 transmission, it uses the old style torque converter but all it takes is a newer stator support in the front pump to use the newer type converter f you rebuild your current trans. I did this conversion on my '66 Monaco so I have a larger selection of converters. If you still have the '70 trans you already have the large converter selection.
My $.02
Scott

 

around hear they usally get between $300.00-$500.00 for a rebuild if you take the trans to them, coarse for that kind of money you can bet they use the cheap kits.

one of these days i wouldn't mind learning how to rebuild a trans and from the guys i have talked to around here that build their own say it is a major rip off on the prices that the pros charge to rebuild one.

 

I dunno...my trans guy quoted me $450 to build my TF904 to take about 450hp, and only a little more to build a C6 to take 550hp.

 

turns out it doesn't need a rebuild ... I had a small leak and it was coming from the seal around the servo shaft - just needed a new gasket, which should be going on this Wed

Of course, once you take off the pan and drop out the valve body, no telling what else we might find, but preliminary checks seems to think its an easy fix

time will tell

 

turns out it doesn't need a rebuild ... I had a small leak and it was coming from the seal around the servo shaft - just needed a new gasket, which should be going on this Wed

Of course, once you take off the pan and drop out the valve body, no telling what else we might find, but preliminary checks seems to think its an easy fix

time will tell

glad to hear it isn't anything serious and figures crossed that it stays that way. make sure when he drops the valve body to adjust that band while he is in there. the other band is adjusted on the outside of the trans so have him adjust that one as well.

coarse while he has the valve body out, this would be a good time to add a shift kit to it.

 

acutally, it has a manual valve body shift kit in the automatic now

shift into D is like stick shift 1st gear

shift into 1 is like stick shift 2nd

shift into 2 is like stick shift 3rd gear

 

I like that Ram Man! The manual valve body! Good advice from Brian there!

 

acutally, it has a manual valve body shift kit in the automatic now

shift into D is like stick shift 1st gear

shift into 1 is like stick shift 2nd

shift into 2 is like stick shift 3rd gear

i forgot all about you having that manual valve body :crazy: no need for a shift kit then. just have him adjust those bands and fix those leaking seals and hopefully you will be good to go.