You do not re-use bolts for the head and intake. Here's the specs for the intake manifold. http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145181&highlight=torque+spec+intake

Also, if the engine had overheated and head gaskets had blown. You might suspect that water had run through the engine. It doesn't take long for that water to wear at crank bearings and rod journals, ect. Hopefully you are rebuilding everything. Another thing, make sure the heads have not cracked due to overheating. And it's always a good thing to have the head machined before re-installation.

 

machine shop

I dropped the heads off at the machine shop today. It will cost 110 euro to test for cracks. If they are OK then I agreed to have them surfaced for another 110 euro. *fingers crossed*

Still looking for a link (hopefully tutorial on 318 overhaul). I'm ordering the Hanes manual with the gasket kit.

 

check www.pavementsucks.com
i've seen a bunch of procedures with pictures for our magnum.
Good luck.

 

Im the type of person, who most of the time will reuse bolts... becasue most of the time when people say that, its just to save thier ass. I am very mechanicly inclined, and know alot about metals and wahtnot, i can tell when something is stresses enoguh to need replaceing...

but when people say to NOT reuse any intake bolts, they arnt just a kidding!!!! DO NOT REUSE THEM!!!

When I did my intake, one of the bolts was already broken before I even got to it!!! I think the stresses from heating and cooling just broke it in use. These bolts really get stressed!

 

check www.pavementsucks.com
i've seen a bunch of procedures with pictures for our magnum.
Good luck.

Thanks, the tech articles with pictures are a big help. At least I now what my engine should look like when it assembled (see first post for explaination)

Any links to a head gasket DIY?

 

Haynes is not bad, take your time and torque the bolts in sequence usally in 2 steps! Meaning tighten all in sequence to 50ft-lbs, then repeat to 150 ft-lbs. No on the intake bolts, but head bolts I have re-used on stock compression re-builds with no problems. Might want to put a hughes plenum plate on the manifold to fix the prone leaking issues. IMHO I like Fel-pro gaskets myself. I would double check like Worm said water can trash bearings. It might be tuffer if the motor is still in the vehicle, but pay me now or pay me later?

 

Update (kinda long)

Well, head gasket replacement is not going to be enough.

The machine shop inspected the heads. No cracks, but they needed to be machined (slight warpage). Price was 220 euros ($300).

The piston walls were scarred pretty bad. So the block is now at the shop. (300 more euros) They said the crank is OK but they will have to bore .20 over on the piston walls.

I'm ready to order my rebuild kit.....just want to see what you guys think of my list.

1. Rebuild kit. New pistons & rings (.20 over), rod and main bearings (STD), gasket kit, freeze plugs, oil pump.

2. New head bolts

3. New timing chain

Now the stuff that I'm not 100% on....My cam looks OK, so valve train wise I was thinking about just changing the lifters. The pushrods are straight, The rocker arms look OK (I honestly don't know what I'm looking for when it comes to rocker arms)

I understand that changing the intake bolts are a must, but I couldn't find them in the catalog.

I should replace all the ignition stuff, but I think I will wait until I know the rebuild is a success.

I'm also considering the valve seals while I have everything apart. I never done them, but I'm sure the machine shop wouldn't mind charging me to do them.

The inside of the block looked nasty. The lower half had the blown headgasket milkshake and the upper part had black crispy sludge from the oil burning up.

Thanks for reading....just looking for any input from those that have been down the rebuilding road....

 

no love

Well,
I gues I'm all alone on this one

 

Since you're having the heads milled and the block bored I assume you are having the valves done also. The gasket set should have new valve seals in it. :gr_patrio

 

I would order the hughes plenum pan & gasket kit if you can. Our rams are prone to blowing the originals. Steel pan and aluminum intake don't mesh well.

 

I hate to say it but if I was going to all the expense that you are going too in getting your engine together I would not skimp on the cam, the cost differece is small when compared to if you have to take it all apart again if it is bad, JMO. Maybe you can get a good price on a cam kit that has everything you would need and that might help with the cost. I would lean in this direction since you said the motor over heated and you don't know how hot it got. The cam bearings and cam journals may not show scorthing but they could be damaged anyway. Good luck.

 

two months later

Ordered the parts from Summitt and two months later I am finally receiving them. They now have the record for slowest customer service.

So, all parts are now at the machine shop.

Parts to be installed by machine shop include: .20 pistons, rings, rod and crank bearings, new timing gear set, and new oil pump.

The valve seals were included, so I'll do those myself. I'm still trying to source some intake bolts (NEED RECOMMENDATION)

I have some pictures and will upload them next. I can't wait to finally get this truck together.

 

I hate to say it but if I was going to all the expense that you are going too in getting your engine together I would not skimp on the cam, the cost differece is small when compared to if you have to take it all apart again if it is bad, JMO. Maybe you can get a good price on a cam kit that has everything you would need and that might help with the cost. I would lean in this direction since you said the motor over heated and you don't know how hot it got. The cam bearings and cam journals may not show scorthing but they could be damaged anyway. Good luck.

I agree with your post, but, I am going to tackle the re-build in two stages. My goal is to have the lower end completly done and re-use the upper end. At some point I would like to buy new heads, lifters and cam.....but at this point I just need it back on the road.

I have not found a link or any part numbers for the intake manifold bolts.

PLEASE HELP!!!!I need a link or a actual part number for the intake bolts

 

hughes plenum plate. http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail.asp?partID=11698
gasket/bolt kit.. http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail.asp?partID=11584

 

hughes plenum plate. http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail.asp?partID=11698
gasket/bolt kit.. http://www.hughesengines.com/partDetail.asp?partID=11584

Thank You!! I just placed my order. Hopefully they will be faster the sumitt :VHOT:

My motor is ready for pick-up. I hope to get started this weekend

 

Thank You!! I just placed my order. Hopefully they will be faster the sumitt :VHOT:

My motor is ready for pick-up. I hope to get started this weekend

My kit came in 4 days...

 

Pictures and progress

Well, I had some fun this weekend. I'm new to the Dodge 318, so I took it slow and spent alot of time cleaning parts before reassembly. I'm waiting on the intake bolts and a few other parts, but I'm getting there.

Here is the block as I received it from the machine shop.

New timing chain and sprockets

Oil Pump installed, getting ready to seal up the bottom end.

Last time I can see the shiny pistons

Fisrt time doing valve seals....it was easier than I thought

I couldn't afford to rebuild the upper end, so I cleaned the valves the best I could. I actually removed alot of crap from the sealing surfaces.

My intake gasket was toast, then again so was the whole motor when I purchased the truck.

OK, I need a little help here, There are three sensors....The 3 o'clock one should be the TPS, but what are the other two? I'm know one of them is the idle control valve, but I want to be positive.....PLEASE HELP!!! AND yes, I plan to clean them!!!

Heads are on and torqued. Still need to install pushrods and rockers. Hopefully more progress soon. (the valve covers are just test fitted with bolts hand tight)

PLEASE NOTE:I was unsure on the reinstallation of the valve covers and motor mounts....If they are not correct, please let me know.

 

nice pictures. your engine is looking good.
looking down on the TB, the IAC is at 12 o'clock (rear of motor), tps at 3:00, and MAP at 6:00. be sure you put the o-ring on the iac. and be sure you connect the little bitty hose on the bottom of the MAP.

 

nice pictures. your engine is looking good.
looking down on the TB, the IAC is at 12 o'clock (rear of motor), tps at 3:00, and MAP at 6:00. be sure you put the o-ring on the iac. and be sure you connect the little bitty hose on the bottom of the MAP.

Thanks, I've been hoping someone would respond. I am ready to install the motor this weekend. I just finished cleaning the engine compartment and everything is looking good. I'm still waiting on the intake bolts.... I installed the intake with the old bolts, but I did not torque them. When the new ones arrive, I will swap them out and torque them.

I caught hell trying to install the distributor/oil pump shaft. According to the book the "slit" was supposed to be angled toward the number one cylinder. It seemed to always angle too far to the left or too far to the right. My eyeballs must be out of calibration because once I installed the distributor it was dead on with the #1. *crosses fingers*

Lastly, I'm not up to date on the terminology here, so I have to ask

IAC=? pretty sure its idle control valve....I understand that it must be fully cleaned or my idle will suck

MAP=? I dont know what that stands for or its function in the system

TPS is the only one that I'm clear on.


Thanks for reading and any help!!!!!

 

iac= idle air control. its a small electric motor that drives a pintel (plunger) into the well in the back of the throttle body (tb). when the tb plates are closed, no air can pass through them, so all idle air must bypass the plates through the iac passages where the iac motor, under pcm control, acts as a variable valve. again - don't forget o-ring.

MAP = manifold air pressure sensor. i don't reallly know what it does.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor

on the intake manifold - where the front and back rubber pieces meet the side gaskets, be sure and put a pretty generous spot of high temp silicon sealant at that junction.

 

Aaaaarrrrrgggghhhh!

on the intake manifold - where the front and back rubber pieces meet the side gaskets, be sure and put a pretty generous spot of high temp silicon sealant at that junction.

I installed the engine last weekend and everything went well. BUT I DID NOT use any silicon between the intake gaskets. I just received the intake bolts, so I was going to install them today and try to finally fire up the engine. I guess I will remove the intake again and apply some silcon.

Thanks for the help