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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i put my 318 2gether 268/272 duration cam w .450/.455 lift, matching springs,ported 302 casting heads w 1.88/1.5" valves,action plus intake, edelbrock 600 carb, mopar performance electronic ignition, edelbrock performer street mechanical fuel pump and headman headers. Seems like a good combo to me n when I try to fire it it puffs gas n smoke out carb, yes on compression stroke set up to fire 10 degrees btdc rotor points @ number 1 plug wire. Wtf? Rotate dizzy either way no luck I'm sure chains not off rotated 4 times it aligned again wut could b wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It's aligned tdc on compression stroke did the finger over spark plug hole method
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes firing orders correct
 

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i agree with jerry. it almost sounds like the distributor it 180 off. i would take the 30 minutes and try rotating the distributor 180. it can't hurt.
 

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440 and a 4 speed
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check your electrical stuff. maybe a weak coil or a 12 volt coil and you have the ballast resistor on it?

possible back ecm?

ballast resistor might be fried or the start wire is bad?


just a few thoughts.

from the indication - you got the timing good enough to fire it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have a new Accel coil and the electronic conversion kit is fairly new as well the ballast resistor shows 1.7 ohm resistance which I thinks a Lil high got roughly 12v on one side n almost 6 on other which sounds correct gonna check quality of spark n compression this weekend if all checks out ill rotate distributor 180
 

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440 and a 4 speed
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I have a new Accel coil and the electronic conversion kit is fairly new as well the ballast resistor shows 1.7 ohm resistance which I thinks a Lil high got roughly 12v on one side n almost 6 on other which sounds correct gonna check quality of spark n compression this weekend if all checks out ill rotate distributor 180

This might be your problem. If the accel coil is a full 12 volt (most likely is), then the ballast resistor is not needed as the coil should get full 12 volts....otherwise you are getting little or weak at best spark.

I would 1st make a jumper wire and completely bipass the ballast and see if you get the engine to fire. If so, make the bipass a soilid connection and you are done.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok I will try this but this setup did work on my 273 but that had 10:5:1 pop ups.
 

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from the sounds of it the readings you have taken it should run. when i tested my resister it was 1.5ohm and with a reading of 11.59v at the battery i would have have 6.38v at the output of the ballast resister with both wires connected. when i disconnected the output wire on the ballast resister and tested i would get 11.15v. i think that coil should needs a ballast resister since that is the correct on for a mopar. you could also try hooking up the old coil. i had an accel coil in my truck when i bought it and the truck never ran consistently with it installed. put in a spare stock coil and it ran fine after that. you could also try running 12v to the positive side of the coil and it should not hurt it doing it for a short time but could kill the coil after time.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree after thinkn it over I think the ignition is fine I know my timing is right the only doubt I have is my timing chain. I'm gonna check my compression n cave in and check its alignment
 

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sonny
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i had ignition trouble using aftermarket ignition parts accell mallory . i bought all mopar performance ignition parts distrib coil voltage reg and all problems disapeared. for a street driven car or truck its hard to beat the mp stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I read something on another forum that might help solve my problem. My cam is a mp cam and lifter set I'm not sure if they're anti-pump up lifters or not but I have the stock non adjustable valvetrain. When I installed the rockers I left it sit overnight n it seemed like they bleed out n well there not pumping up. Sound like the culprit?
 

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sonny
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i dont think that would be a problem. if the lifter bleeds of enough to cause a loose rocker condition you might have a problem. i run a high spring preasure and i dont have that problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea further reading and I'm pretty sure I have standard hydraulic lifters
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well I figured it out but I'm ashamed to say it was because my excitement got the best of me and I wired the cap counter clockwise. So its running now and got the cam broke in but I think I might have water contamination in the oil so ill keep u up 2 date.
 

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They call me Radio
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Doh! No worries, we've all made moves like that before :) At least you found out the issue and the truck is up and running now!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok so replaced intake manifold gasket that was leaking now I have no water in oil drained it and replaced the oil with 5 quarts of fresh oil n my oil level is extremely high. The only thing I think it could b is the oil filter relocation kit I installed with the build any thoughts?
 
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