[TCCustoms]

1) IS there another good way to run the power wire besides in the truck? i have 1/0 gauge and its kinda large to run under the carpet and since the carpets pretty tight in these im sure you would see the wiring! I was thinking under the truck in some PVC or garden house with brackets mounted to the frame rail or something then up into the rear seat cubbys since there are a few holes under there? Just a thought....

2) I am running the new Boston Acoustics SL60 components and dont really like the idea of having to run the new wires though the plastic plugs in the doors? anyone have a good suggestion how to do that OR can I use the stock wiring up at the radio to run those off my amp? its only a Boston GT20 amp which is 45x2 rms but i wasnt sure if that amount of power was safe to run through the stock wiring? I was gonna run the wires from the amp to those wires behind the radio and be set, just want to see if it'll work(be safe) on the stock wiring?

 

[AudioNutz]

1. In a Ram, it's just as easy to run power cable inside the truck as it is outside. If you choose outside, be sure to protect the cable with some sort of hard PVC conduit. When you come through the floor in the back, be sure to use a grommet that locks and seals out the weather, or you will get mud all over your interior.

2. Try the C2A-CHY from PAC to connect your stock radio to an amp. Click Here

 

[joefox]

What you will need is some .75" or 1" id flexible PVC and the end connectors are called water tight connectors. They will have a o ring and a plastic nut. Lowes sells a 20' kit that comes with the end connectors and clips that you can screw to your frame to secure the conduit. It will be found in the electrical dept.

I ran 2-4 ga and 1-8 ga power wires under my carpet. 1 ga would have been easier but it would have made a bulge under the carpet like you said.

I attached some pictures of how I ran my power wire. You can see the 2 water tight connectors in the picture of my firewall. They have a rubber o ring that squeezes the power cable making it water tight when the nut it tightened.
Also notice how I ran the 4 ga cables under the seat bracket. A 1 ga cable will not fit through that opening.
I also removed my factory air box and put another battery tray. I just got my 200 amp alternator in from Ohio Generator and thats going in next!

 

[TCCustoms]

yea, i ran my RCA's where you have your 2 powerwires and on the driver side i ran my powerwire but went alittle overboard on how we went from the front to the back BUT this was on my old truck and when it came to take it all out...is friggen sucked!!! Here's a pic of my powerwire...its 2-4ga side by side and also a pic of the powerwire ran through the seat crossmember. We actually put a metal tube big enough to house the wire and welded that in and just ran it back from there.

ALSO...any word on if you guys think the stock wiring would handle 45-60rms wattage if i ran the wires from my amp to the stock wiring at the radio to feed the fronts rather than run all new wire though the doors and i dont even kno where to begin on how to get the plastic plugs out to run the wire through the doors???

 

[TCCustoms]

Got It In!!!

well i got it all ran and stayed inside the truck! Hooked up the Boston Gt20 amp and got the components all in and hooked up and DAMN, these are prolly one of the best component sets ive had and ive had....

JL Audio, Eclipse, and Powerbass -

My brother has had...

Kenwood, Infinity Kappa and reference(both), Focal and maybe one or 2 others but not sure

 

[AudioNutz]

How could they possibly sound better than the stock speakers?


































Just kidding...


But seriously,
Is that plexiglass I see for the baffle material? What made you decide on that for a baffle?

 

[TCCustoms]

yea, anything is better than stock and the crossover points they use in the radio's! even with the bass all the way down it still has alot of low bass so atleast with these i can control that now. As for comparing it to all these other brands that my brother and i have both had we were both impressed greatly compared to his Focals, Kenwoods, and Infinitys! He's had all these within the past few years in his Grand AM and Alero with the 2 sets of infinity's and focals both being in the alero. Yeaup, thats 3 sets of components in that little car...dont ask me why he did it but he has an orion 15" in a ported box so maybe he thought he needed them all, lol!

im not sure what you mean by a baffle...i call it an adpater plate since its a 6 1/2" speaker goin in a 6x9 opening but its actually lexan! I have a bunch of it sitting around so i figured why not use it! the next thing available was 3/4" MDF and i think that might be a bit too thick, lol!!!

 

[AudioNutz]

Since you brought it up, what crossover points do they use in their radios?

 

[TCCustoms]

im guessing nothing...like i said, even with the bass turned down all the way there was still quite a bit of low's coming through and i didnt like that! I noticed this when running the stock deck for a few weeks between radio's. Atleast on a Gm when the bass is all the way down, there's nothing as compared to dodges...

I apologize as it may have come across wrong by saying they have x-over points

 

[TCCustoms]

Bill(audionutz),
your a very smart man when it comes to stereo's! i want to use some bass blockers i have sitting around on the rear speakers so i can use the high pass x-over on my amp for the front components. Which wire do they connect to, the + or the -? Im thinking positive if i remember right but not sure! my radio has a high pass x-over but its 180 and 135 and i was thinking about goin 150-160 becuz the 135 lets alittle lower bass then what i would like goin through the components and 180 doesnt let much through!
Am i paranoid or would they be ok at 135? i jump it up to 180 if it sounds like too much but i'd like it to stay where i set the amp since that will eventually be hidden behind the rear seat. I kno external x-overs are better but as always...im on a budget

 

[AudioNutz]

Which wire do they connect to, the + or the -? Im thinking positive if i remember right but not sure!

Either one, it doesn't matter, but it may not behave properly if you are also using another crossover to divide the mid/tweeter. (The ones that came with the components)

my radio has a high pass x-over but its 180 and 135 and i was thinking about goin 150-160 becuz the 135 lets alittle lower bass then what i would like goin through the components and 180 doesnt let much through!
Am i paranoid or would they be ok at 135?

It really depends upon what your goal is. After a quick re-read of this thread, I don't see any reference to a subwoofer. Are you wanting to add a high pass crossover to your components without adding a subwoofer? How will you hear the rest of the music?

 

[TCCustoms]

if i shut off the x-over on the radio...the blockers will go on my rear coaxils since i will have no protection from low frequencies for them but not on the components. I want to use the amp x-over for the components

As for the subwoofer, it will come at a later time but not now with the holidays coming and i still have to build my center console box like plan

 

[AudioNutz]

In that case, do not use a crossover.

When you get the subwoofer, see if you can find a 80Hz crossover.

 

[TCCustoms]

i guess im missing something...I do like my music loud and it just seems like not having any x-over on would allow the low freq. through and possibly blow the rears or distort them to death and the components also. If you can explain this idea that would be great, thanks

 

[AudioNutz]

...If you can explain this idea that would be great, thanks

It's your idea. I can't explain why anyone would want to do this. You wouldn't be able to listen to a very important range in the musical spectrum.

 

[TCCustoms]

it just seems like the low bass is gonna kill the 5.25"s in the rear and the components without any x-over