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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all!

I would like to share information regarding a way I found to pass a tubed wire from engine compartment to the interior of my gc 2004.

Current Project: The project was to install a Gentex auto-dim rearview mirror with temp and compass built-in. The challenge I had was to drive the temperature sensor from outside of the vehicle to the inside. The wires are inside a 1/4" plastic tube. Needless to say that, for a rookie, it took me a couple of hours to find a way and then, to test the assumptions.

Before I go in many details, if anyone is interested in the solution I found, in case you would like to install fog lights or any other device that needs to bypass engine firewall, just let me know and I will post it.

Past project: Installed Altezza taillights, they look great on my silver gc!
:rck:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Ok, here it goes...

Tools needed:
-Good flashlight or light source
-Sharp tool such as a knife with a thin and long blade or a pinpointed screwdriver
-Rigid metal wire that you will ply to give it a “J” hook shape, I used a clothing hanger

1-Open front passenger door, you should see a rubber washer with a thick wire passing through it between the door and the fender (inside the fender)
2-Open the hood and locate the space were the inner wall of the fender ends ( 4 inches from windshield washer reservoir)
3-Insert the wire inside that gap and push it carefully towards the back of the vehicle
4-The wire should go into the fender, above the wheel well
5-With passenger door still open, you should see the wire emerge from the inside of the fender (BE PATIENT: it could take you numerous tries before you succeed)
6-Grab this end of the wire and pull it towards you
7-Gently remove passenger’s sidekick panel
8-Squeeze your hand under the sound proofing material until you feel the rubber washer from the inside
9-Now, be prepared to puncture this washer from the outside using a sharp tool BE CAREFULL not to compromise the wires that already go through the washer
10-The punctured hole must not be bigger than the wire you are using…
11-Push (or pull using the “J” tool) the wire into the vehicle from that hole
12-Make sure that all wires are secure before putting pack the sidekick panel.

If further precisions are needed, just ask! Remember that I am a rookie and this was the way things worked out for me.
 

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To save yourself some aggravation, unscrew the plastic inner fender liner to give you full-hand access (and turn the wheel to one side so you can stick a decent-size screwdriver in there). I just pulled the fender liners off my 96 T&C last weekend, and they are nowhere near the chore you would imagine. Even after eight years in salt-encrusted Michigan, the screws were not rusted. They have nicely designed plastic seats that hold up well over time. It took mere minutes for both removal and reassembly.

Rick
 

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BabyGrand
When I installed the Factory T&C Auto-Dim Rearview Mirror on my 04 Dodge GC SXT Equipped with a Factory Overhead Console , the Factory wires for the Auto-Dim Rearview were in the Headliner already. They were clipped in the front of the Headliner approx 6" to the left of the center of the Headliner . Which made it also a nice necessary to add the T&C Auto Headlight Switch which is a feature function of the Factory T&C Rearview Auto-Dim Mirror.

Have to agree with " gas28man " , It makes it a lot easier to access the Rubber Wire Feed-Thru Grommet it you remove the Inner Fender Liner.

If you want access to the Driver's Side Rubber Wire Feed-Thru Grommet you have to remove the Parking Brake Assembly.

The Inner Fender Liners on my 04 GC SXT were held on with Stupid One-Time Finned Push Pins + 2 Screws at the Rear & Front lower areas of the Inner Fender Liners . Used a Forked Removal Tool to remove them. Replace the Stupid One-Time Finned Push Pins with Mopar Part # 06503106 Retainers , They hold Tighter & Can be Removed if you need to.

Note : On the Driver's side there is also 1 Stupid One-Time Finned Push Pin in the top of the Inner Fender Liner , replace that one with a Screw Type Plastic Retainer from Auto Zone or Pep Boys type Auto Store.
 

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Dang, I hate those plastic fasteners. Anytime I get the opportunity to replace them with some real hardware, I do. Ford is REALLY bad about using them to secure interior panels. I once had to fix three power windows on a Town Car I once owned. I think I spent more replacing fasteners than I did on PW motors from the junkyard.

Rick
 

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gas28man said:
Dang, I hate those plastic fasteners. Anytime I get the opportunity to replace them with some real hardware, I do. Ford is REALLY bad about using them to secure interior panels. I once had to fix three power windows on a Town Car I once owned. I think I spent more replacing fasteners than I did on PW motors from the junkyard.

Rick
Are you guys talking about the same push type retainers that hold the tail lights? Or are they more fragile than those?

Thanks for the heads up on what is behind panels before I go about ripping into them.

Does anyone know of the switched wire that is locate in the overhead? What I would like to do there is install led light beside the map light bulb but I wanted it to come on when the engine is on.
 

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BABYGRAND,

These are nylon fasteners that come apart like pine needles when you remove them, rendering them useless for re-use. Can't say I remember what's holding my taillight housings in, but it must be something reusable. Seems to me I'd remember that kind of aggravation.

Rick
 

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BABYGRAND,gas28man

Mopar Part # 06503106 Retainers are reusable & Like the tail Lamp Retainers.
The Auto Zone are a push Pin with a Screw type Center .
The original push pins are Finned & Rip up when they are removed + they don't hold any thing tight. See Attached Photo

What type of overhead console is in your van ? I Have a Factory Service Disk, could send Copy of wiring ???
 

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OverHead Console

Check If you can use this - the switch wire should be 12V - the Ash Tray LED feed should be considerable less . You might be able to hook up your LEDs to the Ash Tray Feed as it is only on when the Head Lamps are on .
Will see if I can Find a 01 SM .
 

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hole in the firewall

I used the same firewall hole with the dash cables going to the engine above the accelarator.
I just had to push the rubber washer out and punch a hole and stick thick modified jumper cables for my Power inverter into the dash. It was easy to put back the rubber washer. But you have to be careful and with those cabled close to the pedals. That's why I zip tied them well under the dash so they won't go loose on the pedals.
Hope this helps .
Bo
 
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