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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
99 Durango 5.2 4x4

New here, hope someone has had some problem like this in the past. Actually... hope no one has had a problem like this.

A few weeks ago I put my truck in reverse after work. It died quick.

Didn't happen again for a few days. Then started happening more often.

On only one occasion I had to ride the gas pedal all the way home to prevent it from stalling.

Cleaned the TB and the IAC. Didn't happen for a few more days. Then it stalled in reverse again. Then it stalled up a steep hill in traffic in just drive.

So I...

Replaced the IAC. Tested the connector.

Replaced the TPS. Tested the connector.

Replaced the plugs.

Replaced the plug wires.

Replaced the distributor and rotor (Which were really in bad shape... the contacts were actually pitted and the rotor tip was short about a mm.)

Load tested the battery (good).

Cleaned the bat terminals.

Sea Foam through the PCV, Brake Booster, and TB.

Chevron Techron through the gas tank.

So... after all this... it hasn't stalled when put in reverse in the last 48 hours. Which is good.

However... here is the problem now... and probably was happening prior to all this.

IN PARK ONLY - I get an engine tapping noise from an unknown location. Seems towards the lower rear of the engine perhaps. All other gears, even neutral sound great.

IN PARK ONLY - If I punch the gas and release it sometimes stumbles and sometimes stalls. The check engine light flashes on and then cuts out so I can't pull the code.

IN PARK ONLY - If I try to maintain a constant 1000, 1200, 1500, or 2000 RPM the RPM dives to 500 then creeps back up and then dives to 500 and then creeps back up, even though my foot never moves.

This is the weirdest thing I have ever seen as none of the symptoms occur in neutral, just in park.

Any ideas?

Sorry for the long post, hope someone knows what the heck is going on.
 

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Pimp On Sir Don
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Check the voltage coming form the TPS, it should be around .70mV i believe. If it's under say .6/.5 do the TPS mod and get it back to around .70

EDIT: test the center connector pin through the weathershielding on it with the engine off, key in on position and throttle @ idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the tip. Got a solid response on the tester. Tried the "TPS mod" by just holding the TPS with my hand at a tighter angle, didn't make a difference.

Just noticed that I can shift between gears without using the brake. I'm boggled.
 

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Pimp On Sir Don
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What was the reading from the TPS?

If you took it off and held it then either it's bad, or you didn't catch the blade on the tabs of the sensor. There's a recepticle inside it that corresponds to a blade on the throttle body. There's virtually no play in it while it's mounted appropriately with the bronze inserts in place and it being mounted.

If you saw no difference I would guess that you missed the tabs on the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a analog tester so I can only estimate it was near the .7 mark, I tested the TPS wire to the PCM too.

I mispoke when I said the TPS mod made "no difference." There certainly was a difference, it just didn't make a difference to the symptoms/problems I am having (rough idle, stalling, clicking and clicking noise only in park.)

If I punch the gas and release while in park, it roughly comes down in rpm and then stalls or near stalls. If I do it in neutral it acts just fine.
 

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Pimp On Sir Don
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Ok, stupid question alerts, but I'm going to ask them anyway:

1) when you replaced the plugs, you gapped them correctly?

2) When you did the wires, you put them back in the original order? (not only firing order, but layout as well)

3) You should get or borrow a digital volt meter to test the TPS with. It's pretty important to get a decent reading since on a lot of analog testers (IDK how good yours is so that's why I'm saying this) .7 mV will look a lot like many other numbers. Esspecially when there's some variation.

It really sounds similar to my TPS problem, except that yours is stalling more frequently. (mine did it twice). When it comes back down after punching it, does it go down near the 500 RPM mark or lower? That's what was happening to mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Unnamed said:
Ok, stupid question alerts, but I'm going to ask them anyway:

1) when you replaced the plugs, you gapped them correctly?

2) When you did the wires, you put them back in the original order? (not only firing order, but layout as well)

3) You should get or borrow a digital volt meter to test the TPS with. It's pretty important to get a decent reading since on a lot of analog testers (IDK how good yours is so that's why I'm saying this) .7 mV will look a lot like many other numbers. Esspecially when there's some variation.

It really sounds similar to my TPS problem, except that yours is stalling more frequently. (mine did it twice). When it comes back down after punching it, does it go down near the 500 RPM mark or lower? That's what was happening to mine.
There are no stupid questions, only stupid people. j/k.

1) I gapped the autolites at .40 (actually what I thought the original problem was, so I double checked them. When I figured out it only happened in park, I wrote that off as a problem.

2) Firing order and layout were put back the same except one wire which was slighty too short and I had to skip a loom.

3) I'll go get a digital tester soon and report the results.

Yes, it goes under 500 when it stalls. ;)

When it doesn't stall it hits slightly above 500 and then jumps back up. This is the strangest thing i have every seen.

I am wondering is a transmission linkage problem as it is a park only problem?
 

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I'm gonna assume that you meant .040 for the gap cuz .40 is huge!... :D

I would think that if this was a linkage issue, you would be seeing shifting problems but even more likely you would put the thing in Reverse and it would be in Drive.
 

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Chump said:
Any error codes on the computer?
Vacuum leak?

Funny you should say that... I was thinking a really bad plenum gasket or something in my first post but decided that I was retarded for thinking that and didn't post it because I had no idea if the plenum would cause that and I might have been talking out of my rectum. :D :D :thatfunny :thatfunny :crazy: :crazy: :help: :help:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Finally figured it out.

Well... it has been a long time, and my above problem got worse and worse.

Replaced the IAC... ran better but still sucked.
Replaced the TPS...ran better but still sucked.
Replaced the rotor, plugs, and cap... ran better but still sucked.
Replaced the battery and battery cables... ran better but still sucked.
Replaced the MAP sensor... ran better but still sucked.

Then started stalling out when pulling to a stop or even slowing down.
Then took 10 minutes to start... immediate stall when put into park.
Loud clicking noise from engine while in park.

Finally... changed the crankshaft position sensor.

RUNS LIKE A CHAMP and all the above replacements finally paid off. Even the clicking noise is gone.
Tested the old crankshaft position sensor and had lots of resistance between pin 2 and 3 which is supposed to be an open loop.

Anyone know what would have been causing the clicking noise? The sensor itself?

-George
 
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