I got a 01 2500 CTD. I have noticed lately that when i get in the throttle no black smoke comes out when in the past it blew lots. I had a guy tell me that the injectors were stopped up but still have power just no smoke. Any ideas? Thanks
Where the smoke go?
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Mine is doing the same thing when it get's real cold outside. I know some of it is cold fuel/less lift pump fuel pressure. It might also be the fuel isn't lighting off good enough to even smoke. When we had a warm spell recently, the smoke & extra power returned.
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All ways keep a eye on your lift pump. Do you have a gauge on it???
combustion will burn better when it is cold out side
The timing advance in cold weather as well.
combustion will burn better when it is cold out side
The timing advance in cold weather as well.
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Fuel pressure gauge is the FIRST thing any 98.5-02 Cummins owner should install. As far as the smoke thing goes, as cool as black smoke looks, it's wasted $$$. Don't get me wrong, I earned a letter from the great state of Texas for excessive exhaust emissions in Austin aka Little San Francisco and I'm proud of it. Having the capability to black out I-35 is beyond sweet, it's still wasted fuel. When I had the 200hp sticks I would haze white smoke at idle, which is raw fuel. As was stated before, cold air is denser than hot air. Meaning better combustion and less smoke. Hence the reason everyone wants a cold air intake, the denser the air charge the more fuel can be burned. Timing also enters this equation. That sound about right Clunk?
Sounds good to me CumminsTex.
Mine seems to run best around 60F with these big hole, no-name nozzles.
Temperatures as low as near freeezing were good with the Stage 3 Jammers so these bigger ones must not squirt as fine as the Jammers.
The idle is clean so we'll see how they do on the emission smoke test this spring.
Mine seems to run best around 60F with these big hole, no-name nozzles.
Temperatures as low as near freeezing were good with the Stage 3 Jammers so these bigger ones must not squirt as fine as the Jammers.
The idle is clean so we'll see how they do on the emission smoke test this spring.
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well, Mr. Clunk, i have no power mods done the the truck(he says as he's about to order a Edge Juice w/ Attitude:rck
and, besides, i'm still not 100% sure on how yer setup worked anyway
:dunno:
:help:
Yeah...he said he was gonna do a Juicew/Attitude:rck:well, Mr. Clunk, i have no power mods done the the truck(he says as he's about to order a Edge Juice w/ Attitude:rck
[/QUOTE]and, besides, i'm still not 100% sure on how yer setup worked anyway
:dunno:
:help: [/QUOTE]
I dunno either, I just look at pictures:cheerl: ...in my Gallery/page 2
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17,169 Posts
and, besides, i'm still not 100% sure on how yer setup worked anyway
:dunno:
:help: [/QUOTE]
I dunno either, I just look at pictures:cheerl: ...in my Gallery/page 2[/QUOTE]
so, that hose just screws into the vp44 pump and the other end to the gauge?
and that small line is the return line, right, and i was talkin bout myself when i said the edge thing,
i'm gettin an edge
prob gonna do the cheapo gauge that same day
Nope, disregard the small amber line...it's for bleeding air onna gasser. It's not on the line now.
Yup, the Fuel Pressure check kit hose screws one end onto the Schrader Valve on the injector pump and the other end where the 0-100psi gauge is screwed on is the end to start adding the greasegun lines.
Take off the gauge that comes with the kit.
The greasegun line extensions (3500psi) have 1/8"NPT male threads so the female fittings have to be bought too. The needle valve (1/4 open to dampen the pressure pulses) has to be bought also as well as a 0-30psi gauge.
You might take the list to a NAPA or O'Reilly's and see if they can fix you up. Don't forget the Permatex non-hardening thread sealer.
It's kinda involved but you can save a few bucks over a ready made if you have the time to chase the parts.
Yup, the Fuel Pressure check kit hose screws one end onto the Schrader Valve on the injector pump and the other end where the 0-100psi gauge is screwed on is the end to start adding the greasegun lines.
Take off the gauge that comes with the kit.
The greasegun line extensions (3500psi) have 1/8"NPT male threads so the female fittings have to be bought too. The needle valve (1/4 open to dampen the pressure pulses) has to be bought also as well as a 0-30psi gauge.
You might take the list to a NAPA or O'Reilly's and see if they can fix you up. Don't forget the Permatex non-hardening thread sealer.
It's kinda involved but you can save a few bucks over a ready made if you have the time to chase the parts.
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ok, now that i know all that chit, i'll go ahead and do that when i install the edge's pyro sender
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it comes w/ instructions, right:dunno:
and besides, i thought you just drilled and tapped a hole in the exhaust manifold and put the S.U. in the hole, then ran the wires where they need to go:help:
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wow, you got info on everything, man:tup::cheerl:
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