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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2002 Ram 2500 5.9L 360. Im not sure what the next step performance wise is for it. I have done the 1.7rr, Mopar intake manifold, Jba shorty headers to a 2.5in y pipe to a borla single in dual out muffler, electric fans, MSD 6al with a blaster ss coil, round air cleaner, fastman TB and a hemi fever tune. The tranny has a new valve body, HD shift servos and bands. The truck came with 4.10s from the factory so going to a 4.56 or 4.88 gear setup would kill highway driving.
 

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Where you are at now even with the 1.7 rockers, I would say a cam would be next. Talk to Hughes Engines and see what they would recommend. If you are into spending more money, aluminum Edelbrock heads would also be a good choice.

I would be interested in the dyno numbers with what you have. It sounds pretty stout as it is.
 

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ya dont realy need diff gears. i'd second the heads and a cam combo.
perhaps just a truetrack locker in the rear.
 

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2x or 4x? and is it a purpose build? how quick do you want to go? how much gas money do you want to spend? :ebrow:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Its 4x4 and its my tow rig. I tow a one ton jeep wrangler pretty often. Im just looking for some more low end power.
 

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well with the 1.7rr you may want a mild lift cam, cause that rocker will add .030 of lift. watch for the allowances on the heads when you order them.
for a mule rig i'd go iron heads. iron EQs 2.02s. they take the heat and last along time through severe duty.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-EQ-IRON-RAM-DODGE-318-360-MAGNUM-OHV-CYLINDER-HEAD-/170523956708?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item27b40515e4
it just so happens that i have a low lift cam that will put you at about .500 lift after all said and done. 214/220 @ .50 duration 110c-line 114lsa. i'm going to put it through a doctor before it leaves me. its a torque cam. you could look for the RT+10 cam too. thats chrystlers mild performer.
replace the timing chain. its a must. and get a true roller like a JP double. worth every penny.
 

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the heads help the cam. without the cam the heads will not give you much. but the factory heads are junk. the valve seats fracture. and the oe heads dont cool well!
what a difference!
 

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dont buy his gaskets. just get the felpro 1008.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
what compression ratio would you run? I was thinking 10:1? What would you think i would pick up with the rt+10 cam and those heads at 10:1 compression?
 

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wouldnt push 10:1 with iron heads. the EQ heads have a 62mil bowl and bring up the stock piston cr to 9.25:1. if you wanted more cr, you would have to change the pistons or deck the heads or run alu heads. edlebrock head bowls are 58mil and smaller if you can find them. plan to run a half tick to a full compression mark higher on the alu heads. raising the cr increases 20hp typicaly, but the engine will run cranky hot!
to run the EQ heads and a rt-10 cam should net 50-70hp/tq. estimated
its a big project if you trust the old bottom end. usually chrystler is good for it!
let me know if you interested in this cam i have laying around. i'll get it right into the doctor! half price of a new comp cam
 

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What is the "doctor"?:gr_patrio
 

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yes the stock injectors will be enough. i went ahead and put in vette #24s when the new motor was done and the tune needed to bring the pulse down quite a bit. most guys just go bigger for injectors just to make room. any calculator i used put the stock #22s at 300hp at the fly wheel, thats it. so with #22s in they will need to open up some on a tune.

a cam doctor will measure height and check for the degree of every lobe. its a doudle check on a used or a regrind. just to make sure its out the door with no prob. i have only bout thousand miles on it.
 

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i seen 99-00 vette #24s just go for $60 on Ebay last week!
 
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