Well, I'm not sure. I removed the PW and left the IAT sensor in the new spot, my performance and mpg got better, same as with the sensor in the stock location and using the PW. Even Nick suggested to me that the combo my be to much, we had a few e-mail exchanges. I've tried four different combos: 1) no mods, 2) PW & sensor in stock location, 3) PW & sensor in new location, 4) Just sensor in new location. #2 & #4 were better than #1 & #3. Not all trucks will react the same to a mod even though they are the same year truck. Area, gas, weather, etc. will all be a factor.dodge3471 said:You still need the PW. I also moved my IAT sensor to the entrance of the air box and the inlet temps were still hot enough in 80°F ambient air that the PCM was retarding the spark advance for hot inlet air temps as show on a scan tool. The PW will not effect mileage during closed loop or part throttle cruising speeds and loads. At heavy loads and WOT the 20°F lower IAT temps will only give you 2% more fuel. Is it possible that the lower mileage that you saw was due to something else?
IAT stands for intake air temperature but you have the right idea!Ram4Pick said:The Air Ram power wire is an IAT (incoming air temperature, something like that) mod. It has a resistor in it that tricks the computer, it tells it that the air temp is 20* cooler than it really is. This in theory has the computer increase the timing and fuel delivery a tad, suppose to be good for 8-10 hp according to Nick (Air Ram). It just so happens that I'm selling one in the classifieds as I type this. I had the PW and I've moved the IAT sensor from the stock location to the airbox top, this lets the sensor register a cooler air temp also. Moving the sensor and using the PW was to much for the computer, my performance and mpg went down. Use the PW in the stock location and it works. I selling the PW becuase if I use it, I'll have to put the IAT sensor in the stock location and that'll leave a hole in my airbox top SO, the IAT mod stays and the PW goes. Just an FYI that I'm selling it. You can get a new one at
I agree with your hypothesis.... But is is so obvious? I do love PIE though!BLACKWOLF said:"It appears the restistation of said wire is the direct result of the relationship of its inertia with the square root of pie. Subsequently it becomes obvious the...."
A little off topic but can you just give a quick opinion on the Scangauge. Been looking into getting one, $129.00 direct from manufacturer.magnuman said:I've done this mod. with my own variable potentiometer, so I have full range (real ambient temp. down to 17 degrees) adjustment. I also continuously monitor the IAT using a Scan Gauge velcroed to my dash.
Sorry about the hijack guys. I'll be quick.magnuman said:rtes,
IMO the Scan Gauge is well worth the $$. It offers real time (within about 2 seconds) readouts of up to 13 different engine functions, of which you can view 4 at a time on the screen. I usually monitor ignition timing, coolant temperature, intake air temperature and engine loading or manifold absolute pressure. It also has a multitude of trip functions, such as, average fuel economy, trip miles, elapsed time, fuel used, fuel remaining, etc. It also can read and clear the Diagnostic Trouble Codes. It supposedly can be used on any 1996 and later vehicle. The only problem I have is that it will not give accurate gas mileage readouts when the Multi-Displacement System is active on my Hemi. I understand the company is working on a new model that corrects this.