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The Air Ram power wire is an IAT (incoming air temperature, something like that) mod. It has a resistor in it that tricks the computer, it tells it that the air temp is 20* cooler than it really is. This in theory has the computer increase the timing and fuel delivery a tad, suppose to be good for 8-10 hp according to Nick (Air Ram). It just so happens that I'm selling one in the classifieds as I type this. I had the PW and I've moved the IAT sensor from the stock location to the airbox top, this lets the sensor register a cooler air temp also. Moving the sensor and using the PW was to much for the computer, my performance and mpg went down. Use the PW in the stock location and it works. I selling the PW becuase if I use it, I'll have to put the IAT sensor in the stock location and that'll leave a hole in my airbox top SO, the IAT mod stays and the PW goes. Just an FYI that I'm selling it. You can get a new one at www.airram.com
Jim
 

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You still need the PW. I also moved my IAT sensor to the entrance of the air box and the inlet temps were still hot enough in 80°F ambient air that the PCM was retarding the spark advance for hot inlet air temps as show on a scan tool. The PW will not effect mileage during closed loop or part throttle cruising speeds and loads. At heavy loads and WOT the 20°F lower IAT temps will only give you 2% more fuel. Is it possible that the lower mileage that you saw was due to something else?
 

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It's just $28.00 and yes it's just a wire with a resistor that you put in between your exsisting IAT wire. It will take you 5min at the most to put it in place. If you go through dodgetalk to AirRam's site you will get a 2$ discount. Or you can just go to AirRam.com
 

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jrhodes said:
How much are sellin it for? Is that all that is needed for the mod is the wire?
I'm selling mine for $20 shipped!
Jim
 

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dodge3471 said:
You still need the PW. I also moved my IAT sensor to the entrance of the air box and the inlet temps were still hot enough in 80°F ambient air that the PCM was retarding the spark advance for hot inlet air temps as show on a scan tool. The PW will not effect mileage during closed loop or part throttle cruising speeds and loads. At heavy loads and WOT the 20°F lower IAT temps will only give you 2% more fuel. Is it possible that the lower mileage that you saw was due to something else?
Well, I'm not sure. I removed the PW and left the IAT sensor in the new spot, my performance and mpg got better, same as with the sensor in the stock location and using the PW. Even Nick suggested to me that the combo my be to much, we had a few e-mail exchanges. I've tried four different combos: 1) no mods, 2) PW & sensor in stock location, 3) PW & sensor in new location, 4) Just sensor in new location. #2 & #4 were better than #1 & #3. Not all trucks will react the same to a mod even though they are the same year truck. Area, gas, weather, etc. will all be a factor.
Jim
 

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jrhodes said:
RAM4, do you have a personal email address or phone number?
PM'd you!
Jim
 

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Ram4Pick said:
The Air Ram power wire is an IAT (incoming air temperature, something like that) mod. It has a resistor in it that tricks the computer, it tells it that the air temp is 20* cooler than it really is. This in theory has the computer increase the timing and fuel delivery a tad, suppose to be good for 8-10 hp according to Nick (Air Ram). It just so happens that I'm selling one in the classifieds as I type this. I had the PW and I've moved the IAT sensor from the stock location to the airbox top, this lets the sensor register a cooler air temp also. Moving the sensor and using the PW was to much for the computer, my performance and mpg went down. Use the PW in the stock location and it works. I selling the PW becuase if I use it, I'll have to put the IAT sensor in the stock location and that'll leave a hole in my airbox top SO, the IAT mod stays and the PW goes. Just an FYI that I'm selling it. You can get a new one at
Jim
IAT stands for intake air temperature but you have the right idea!
 

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I've done this mod. with my own variable potentiometer, so I have full range (real ambient temp. down to 17 degrees) adjustment. I also continuously monitor the IAT using a Scan Gauge velcroed to my dash. Some problems are that this mod. will only do any good when the fuel injectinon is in the "open loop" mode, such as full throttle. In normal driving conditions the system is in "closed loop" mode and the mixture (and everything else) is controlled by the PCM through readings received from the oxygen sensors. The PCM will maintain the mixture (in closed loop) at 14.7 to 1, no matter what you set the IAT sensor at. If it gets too far out of range, it will drop a DTC code indicating a bad sensor. The store bought "resistor" you're talking about is a fixed resistor (only one resistance), and if plugged into both pins of the IAT plug instead of the IAT sensor, you will have only one constant temperature reading under any and all conditions. If the resistor is placed in series with the signal lead of the IAT, it will give you a readout that is the true IAT minus whatever the resistor is set at. The IAT sensor operates on inverse resistances.....higher resistance equals lower temperature....lower resistance equals higher temperatures. One last thing....most people that have dyno'd their hemi's have indicated the engine runs a little rich (computer programmed) at WOT. This mod. would further richen the mixture and cause a loss of power, rather than a gain. Before I go further with my mod. I am going to rewire it to include a switch will allow me to both richen or lean the mixture at WOT. I am also looking into obtaining an air-fuel meter that I can hook to the oxygen sensors to get a true readout of the mixture, and thus set it accordingly at WOT for any temperature. Cost of my mod. so far is about $10. The resistor costs about $2 at Radio Shack.
 

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The main idea of the PW is to trick the ECU into not retarding the spark advance for hot inlet air temperatures. The enrichening of the air fuel ratio is a side effect of doing this but it's only about 2% more fuel during open loop. The PW's 4.7K ohms resistor is installed in series so that the ECU gets a temperature reading that is 20°F cooler than actual which is enough to keep the ECU from retarding the spark advance about 3-4 degrees. I have seen hot inlet air temp spark retard on a scan tool on a 70°F ambient temperature day. The IAT temperatures are usually about 10°F-15°F hotter than ambient temps due to under hood heat. The hot IAT spark retard starts to come in at about 86°F and the hotter the IAT gets the more the spark advance is retarded. On a Hemi this is calibrated for hot dry air (Arizona) on 89 octane fuel. If the air is humid or if higher octane fuel is used the hot IAT spark retard is not needed to keep the engine from spark knocking. When using the PW the spark advance in not retarded as much or not at all depending on how hot the IAT temps get so the engine will make more torque and more horsepower.
 

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KaPPaBaLL said:
i guess everyone wanted to be Einstein tonight.

"It appears the restistation of said wire is the direct result of the relationship of its inertia with the square root of pie. Subsequently it becomes obvious the...."
 

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BLACKWOLF said:
"It appears the restistation of said wire is the direct result of the relationship of its inertia with the square root of pie. Subsequently it becomes obvious the...."
ahhh shut up hahhahaa
 

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BLACKWOLF said:
"It appears the restistation of said wire is the direct result of the relationship of its inertia with the square root of pie. Subsequently it becomes obvious the...."
I agree with your hypothesis.... But is is so obvious? I do love PIE though!

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM
 

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magnuman said:
I've done this mod. with my own variable potentiometer, so I have full range (real ambient temp. down to 17 degrees) adjustment. I also continuously monitor the IAT using a Scan Gauge velcroed to my dash.
A little off topic but can you just give a quick opinion on the Scangauge. Been looking into getting one, $129.00 direct from manufacturer.
Would you say it's worth it? Been trying to find gizmo to access OBD-2 available data and this seems to be the only player in town.
Any info would be useful. Thanks.
 

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rtes,
IMO the Scan Gauge is well worth the $$. It offers real time (within about 2 seconds) readouts of up to 13 different engine functions, of which you can view 4 at a time on the screen. I usually monitor ignition timing, coolant temperature, intake air temperature and engine loading or manifold absolute pressure. It also has a multitude of trip functions, such as, average fuel economy, trip miles, elapsed time, fuel used, fuel remaining, etc. It also can read and clear the Diagnostic Trouble Codes. It supposedly can be used on any 1996 and later vehicle. The only problem I have is that it will not give accurate gas mileage readouts when the Multi-Displacement System is active on my Hemi. I understand the company is working on a new model that corrects this.
 

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magnuman said:
rtes,
IMO the Scan Gauge is well worth the $$. It offers real time (within about 2 seconds) readouts of up to 13 different engine functions, of which you can view 4 at a time on the screen. I usually monitor ignition timing, coolant temperature, intake air temperature and engine loading or manifold absolute pressure. It also has a multitude of trip functions, such as, average fuel economy, trip miles, elapsed time, fuel used, fuel remaining, etc. It also can read and clear the Diagnostic Trouble Codes. It supposedly can be used on any 1996 and later vehicle. The only problem I have is that it will not give accurate gas mileage readouts when the Multi-Displacement System is active on my Hemi. I understand the company is working on a new model that corrects this.
Sorry about the hijack guys. I'll be quick.
You have just about made my mind up to go with it but can you see the display on the move ( looks quite small in all pics have seen ) or is that no prob.
Thanks.
If any one wants to know what it is check out

www.scangauge.com
 
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