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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone running a WDH and been able to adjust and get the day out of the rear end? I am wondering if tilting the ball would help?
 

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Anyone running a WDH and been able to adjust and get the day out of the rear end? I am wondering if tilting the ball would help?
Yep, tilting the ball mount might help. But help what? Your post is short on details.
 

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Anyone running a WDH and been able to adjust and get the day out of the rear end? I am wondering if tilting the ball would help?
I use one on my travel trailer. Once you get it set correctly you will like it. Look on You Tube for videos of how to set one up. Getting the ball height correct is the first important step. To do that you first want to level the trailer! Don't just go out and measure the trailer hitch from ground up until the trailer is level. This is especially true of a dual axle trailer. The reason you adjust the ball tilt is to be able to get the bars level with the ground when under tension.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks bob, just curious if it is possible to tilt it too much to were it it would effect the ball and coupler? Need to tilt it though.
 

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Thanks bob, just curious if it is possible to tilt it too much to were it it would effect the ball and coupler? Need to tilt it though.
My guess is no. The hitch is built with slots in it to facilitate the angle change. I doubt they would manufacture beyond the parameters of the ball to trailer hitch interface. But common sense is always good. If you are pulling a trailer that is heavy enough to have say 1000 lbs of hitch weight make sure you are running the correct bars for this. They make a variety of weight ranges with bars. I like staying on the upper end of the rating. You can get bars anywhere from around 400 to 1600 lb ratings. When I got my used trailer, a 31' Keystone which weights about 8,100 going down the road, it had 750 lb rated bars. I had the ball tilted back all the way and one heck of a lot of tension on the chains to get the bars level with the road. It still had some sag and was not right. I went to 1,000 lb bars and fixed it. The ball is still tilted slightly to the rear, but not much. The tilting of the ball is to achieve getting the WD bars level with the ground and at the same time having the trailer sit level. It can take a lot of finagling to achieve this. Start with the trailer dead level. The ball height on the truck should be about 1" higher than the ball hitch on the trailer. (make sure you do this on level ground) Drop the trailer on the ball and lock the ball lever down. Now raise the trailer with the jack so there is negative weight on the truck. This does two things. 1. it assures you the ball hitch is latched correctly. 2. It makes it easier to get the chains hooked up. Select the chain link that will allow the WD bars to sit fairly level/parallel with the ground. Now lower the jack and put the trailer weight on the hitch and see how far down it goes. If you are dropping more than 2-3 inches and the front of the truck raises up you may have a couple different issues. 1. Too much hitch weight to trailer weight which can be really hard to determine without a scale. Hitch weight likes to be about 10% of the trailer weight. 2. The WD bars are too light for the application. 3. The truck suspension is too light for the trailer load.

what you towing and with what truck?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am towing a 25 foot bunkhouse with a 2012 ram 1500 quad cab. Trailer dry is 4300 and GTW is 6600. Hitch weight is about 650. I have 1000lbs bars. Guess I just need to play with the tilt more to get the bars more level. Thanks for the help!
 

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I am towing a 25 foot bunkhouse with a 2012 ram 1500 quad cab. Trailer dry is 4300 and GTW is 6600. Hitch weight is about 650. I have 1000lbs bars. Guess I just need to play with the tilt more to get the bars more level. Thanks for the help!
Should work fine. Another thing to watch for especially with travel trailers is how you load the rig. Even though you may not come close to the gross weight, if you load all those cases of beer and cans of beans up front your tongue weight can get too high pretty quick. You want about 10% of the total weight on the tongue. I'd love to have a simple load cell type scale you could drive the trail on and check weight. Left to right and front to rear. I guess there are some RV places that have this.
 

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I am towing a 25 foot bunkhouse with a 2012 ram 1500 quad cab. Trailer dry is 4300 and GTW is 6600. Hitch weight is about 650. I have 1000lbs bars. Guess I just need to play with the tilt more to get the bars more level. Thanks for the help!
What brand/style is your WDH setup? The make and model, for a conventional WDH, will determine where the spring bars should sit in relation to the frame. Round bar systems will typically be parallel to the frame. Trunnion bar systems will angle down. This in turn will help to set up the appropriate tilt for the ball mount.
 

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locogk
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On my 1500 i added air bags made it handle better
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks jet133. I have a husky traditional round bar so my set up should be bars level with the frame.

Locogk the airbags would be nice, but are not a replacent to the WDH. Airbags wpnt redistribute the weight.
 

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Thanks jet133. I have a husky traditional round bar so my set up should be bars level with the frame.

Locogk the airbags would be nice, but are not a replacent to the WDH. Airbags wpnt redistribute the weight.
I have 2' lower but 25% stiffer rear coils and in coil bags. Makes a huge difference. When you measure for level you also measure the before hook up and after of the front as well. The WDH device transfer weight back to the front of the truck.
 

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locogk
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i have a husky w/d love it no chains or sway control
 
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