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This is the 3rd strut I've been through. Seems to be a thing with the 2006 factory struts. So I went and got some Bilstein struts to replace the factory ones. I am going to buy rear shocks that match today or tomorrow. I hope to have them and throw all four on this weekend.
 

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I have the same shocks ordered. Since you done this before can you give some tips on the job? I need to decide if I want to try the fronts myself or take them to a shop. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You'll need a spring/strut compressor. It's actually a fairly simple task. I am sure I'll add pics to this thread as we do it. Maybe give you an idea if you want to tackle it or not..
 

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Im not a huge fan of the little strut tools, I like the wall mounted ones.. I had a set of the hand held strut tools and they slipped while my hand was inside there..

Some of the truck springs like that are hard to compress too..
 

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I replace the factory struts a couple weeks ago on my 2006. The dealer could not find replacements anywhere local and forecast availability was about a month. I also went with the Bilstein from on-line source.

I watched the tech replace them. It wasn't too bad with the right tools. He did have a major problem getting the top nut off the strut, it was rusted on. It took him about 3 hours with about half the time trying to get to top nuts off the strut.

Jim O
 

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bout time they came in.

the correct tool is a Mcpherson strut compressor. most parts stores can rent them for about 30 bux. make sure you have plenty of wd-40 for the top nut. start soaking it now.

took me an hour to do the first one and 45 min for the second. get a HUGE set of vise grips around the piston shaft after you compress it and then work the nut back and forth with a impact gun. it takes a bit but thats the fastest way.
 

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The Day I Got Her
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picture will help out...i got the Bilstein 5100 2" level waiting to go in just need the time
 

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If you dont feel comfortable doing this, take them to a shop, they shouldnt charge you much to swap the struts in, on the wall mount strut tool..

If you use the hand helds be careful..
 

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Yeah, it took them forever to get to me..

WD-40 is not a penetrating oil so it wouldn't do a good job of 'loosening' the nut. But I hope to have no problems with it. I should look to finding osme penetrating oil though just to be safe.. hahahaha I plan on doing this Sunday morning.
 

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I keep a can of PB blaster on my tool cart.. works wonders!
 

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Btw the bad part about using vice grips to hold the shaft from spinning is that where my strut was bad, the shaft was soaked in fluid, and slick as could be lol,
 

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I wasnt aware they made front struts for 06+ years yet, besides the lift shocks.
 

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This is about one of the worst designs DC ever came out with. The strut bolt is in a depression that doesn't drain. Dirt, water, everything that lands on top of the strut, lays on the nut. I had a hell of a time getting mine off. Lots of penetrating oil, vise-grips on the shaft, a very large impact gun and a LOT of patients. Other than that, it's not a bad job.
 

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Btw the bad part about using vice grips to hold the shaft from spinning is that where my strut was bad, the shaft was soaked in fluid, and slick as could be lol,
mine too. i was soooo close to just taking the sawzall to the dang thing so i could put the cut half of the shock shaft in the vise instead.

if its hard to get a bite, might try useing a dremel and sanding/grinding a flat spot on the old shock to get a better grip.
 

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Yeah, it took them forever to get to me..

WD-40 is not a penetrating oil so it wouldn't do a good job of 'loosening' the nut. But I hope to have no problems with it. I should look to finding osme penetrating oil though just to be safe.. hahahaha I plan on doing this Sunday morning.
I was using WD-40 to soak for afew days before i did them because penetrating oil will evaporate a lot faster that WD will. I was using PB once i got them off the truck. did seem like either did much so i cant imagine how hard it would have been if I did have any of either.
 

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I RECOMMEND FUKKEN WAX
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When you put the new ones on, cover that nut with a big slather of lithium grease to seal all the crap out of it. Sealing wax works good also.
 

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Daytona 8398
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WD-40 is not a penetrating oil so it wouldn't do a good job of 'loosening' the nut. But I hope to have no problems with it. I should look to finding osme penetrating oil though just to be safe..


RP's MaxFlim penetrates well, I've used it a few times and it is far better then WD-40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
When you put the new ones on, cover that nut with a big slather of lithium grease to seal all the crap out of it. Sealing wax works good also.
That is a great idea! Thanks frogman!
 

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Sounds like a good project.

The first pic reminds me that I need to get some body plugs for the holes in the inside rocker panels. The tape that the factory used is not cutting it.
 
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