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Discussion Starter #1
I am gong to attempt to change the water pump on the beast this weekend. Yeah me!!!
What I am needing to know is a list of everything I will need parts wise to get the job done. If anybody can help I would be OH so greatful...:help:
 

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Mopar owner since 1977
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Patience, a decent set of tools, and a Chiltons manual. That always works for me.

Make sure you have a big wrench and hammer to knock the nut loose on the fan clutch.

I'd replace the crossover hose to the intake and all your hoses as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've done a few searches. And, I keep seeing something about an o-ring that needs to be changed. I am trying to have a list of supplies before I get started so, I don't have to stop in the middle of this lovely job. Thanks for any help anybody can offer.
 

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46re(tarded)
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I just did mine a few weeks ago. Go to autozone and rent the fan removal tool (for a bolted on pulley) first. Everythng else can be done with basic hand tools. I had to take off the alternator/AC braket and push them out of the way to get to the radiator hoses, so plan on doing this before you start.
 

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Beware the Underbite!!!
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they dont have that tool in our area...audiomechanic had to fashion a holder out of bar stock when we did his
 

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46re(tarded)
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Really? That sucks! That tool is a must-have.
 

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I use a vice grip chain to hole the pulley in place while I loosen the fan nut with a 18" long crescent wrench. Other than that you'll need a 10mm socket to remove the alternator wire (disconnect the battery first!), a 15mm socket for the tensioner pulley, and 13mm & 14mm sockets for the brackets and water pump itself. Best thing to do is to lay everything out the way you take it off so that way you can see better how it goes back on. You'll also need a screw driver or two for misc. things (air filter housing and a/c line hold down bracket). Oh, and channel locks for the hose clamp springs.

The O-ring you mentioned probably goes on the bypass tube that seats into the top right of the water pump. It should come with either your new pump or gasket kit.

If yours is anything like my 2000 model that about all you need other than the obvious gasket sealer and extra antifreeze.
 

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The easy way to get the fan off the threaded shaft is to put a straight drift punch in an pnumatic chisel and use it to shock one side of the flats were it threads on.Loosens the nut off the shaft every time.My brother-n-law showed me this trick.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, let me see if I got this. One large adjustable wrench, various sockets, water pump, gaskets and pump will hopefully come with o-ring. Also, must not forget antifreeze and water. Lots of patience and dictionary to make up new cuss words!! That about cover it????
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did I forget to mention that we just received about 2 more freakin inches of snow today. Hopefully it can be nursed through a few more days. Not gone yet just starting to make noise and beginning to lose coolant. I know what I really need is a friend with a heated garage!!!!
 

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Mopar or No Car!
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I did mine last summer, the o-ring came with my new water pump (I got it at Napa they happened to be the cheapest) What everybody else said is right but I wish I had thought of the Vice Grip chain thing. A friend of mine told me about the air chisel thing too but you gotta be careful that you don't chew up the nut with it.
 

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Dont forget to use distilled water. I bought a new bypass tube when I did mine. Your pump will come with a new o-ring for it but mine leaked so I bought a new one. Rember to loosen your fan nut with the belt still on this way the belt helps keep the pullys from moveing. The fan nut can be a real pain.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeah that nut really looks to be the worst of it. At least I hope so. Will update when I ge it done. Hopefully soon.
 

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46RE is the DEVIL
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I just did mine. I didnt have to remove the air intake or the alt. Swivles joints are your friend. LOL I just bought a new tube also I think I payed like 8 bucks for a new tube with oring. Dont forget to clean the gasket surface on the waterpump and the block to make sure you get a good seal. I tell you the biggest pain I had was the fan bolt. After borrowing a air chisel and a clutch fan removal tool it took all of 20 mins after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One more quick question. Can anybody tell me if the fan is right or left handed threads. Don't want to beat, bang and twist trying to go the wrong way????
 

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dont know about right or left hand. but i do know that sometimes mopar runs bolts i to the coolant jacket, so need to put some permatex #2 on the bolt theards so you dont have a coolant leek. also on gaskets. i dont like rtv, #2 has always done what i need
 

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The thermal viscous fan drive is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub shaft. Remove the fan/fan drive assembly from water pump by turning the mounting nut counterclockwise (as viewed from front). Threads on the fan drive are RIGHT-HAND

-i'd replace the 5-6" bypass hose near the thermostat housing. replace the therm gasket if it's still original or weeping coolant.... I need to replace mine... getting some seepage around the therm housing.

while you are there.. check the timing cover gasket? i thought they are fairly leak prone. if im not mistaken, for the most part the gasket seals in oil but I think there is 2 coolant passages which can be affected by the timing cover gasket.





ill give you the whole repair in next post
 

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<<trimmed out some unnecessary text>>

The water pump on all gas powered engines is bolted directly to the engine timing chain case/cover.

On all 3.9/5.2L/5.9L gas powered engines, a gasket is used as a seal between the water pump and timing chain case/cover.

If water pump is replaced because of bearing/shaft damage or leaking shaft seal, the mechanical cooling fan assembly should also be inspected. Inspect for fatigue cracks, loose blades or loose rivets that could have resulted from excessive vibration. Replace fan if any of these conditions are found. Also check condition of the thermal viscous fan drive.

1. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery.
2. Drain cooling system. Do not waste reusable coolant. If solution is clean, drain coolant into a clean container for reuse.
3. Remove windshield washer reservoir tank from radiator fan shroud.
4. Disconnect the coolant reserve/overflow tank-to-radiator hose at the tank.


5. Remove the four fan shroud mounting bolts at the radiator. Do not attempt to remove shroud from vehicle at this time. WARNING: CONSTANT TENSION HOSE CLAMPS ARE USED ON MOST COOLING SYSTEM HOSES. WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING, USE ONLY TOOLS DESIGNED FOR SERVICING THIS TYPE OF CLAMP, SUCH AS SPECIAL CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER 6094). SNAP-ON CLAMP TOOL (NUMBER HPC-20) MAY BE USED FOR LARGER CLAMPS. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN SERVICING CONSTANT TENSION CLAMPS. CAUTION: A number or letter is stamped into the tongue of constant tension clamps. If replacement is necessary, use only an original equipment clamp with a matching number or letter.
6. Remove upper radiator hose at radiator.


7. The thermal viscous fan drive is attached (threaded) to the water pump hub shaft. Remove the fan/fan drive assembly from water pump by turning the mounting nut counterclockwise (as viewed from front). Threads on the fan drive are RIGHT-HAND. A Snap-On 36 MM Fan Wrench (number SP346 from Snap-On Cummins Diesel Tool Set number 2017DSP) can be used. Place a bar or screwdriver between the water pump pulley bolts to prevent the pulley from rotating.
8. If water pump is being replaced, do not unbolt fan blade assembly from the thermal control fan drive.
9. Remove fan blade/fan drive and fan shroud as an assembly from vehicle.
10. After removing fan blade/fan drive assembly, do not place the thermal viscous fan drive in the horizontal position. If stored horizontally, the silicone fluid in the viscous drive could drain into its bearing assembly and contaminate the bearing lubricant.
11. Do not remove the water pump pulley bolts at this time.


Remove accessory drive belt as follows: The drive belt is equipped with a spring loaded automatic tensioner.

13. 3.9L V-6 or 5.2/5.9L V-8 LDC-Gas Engines: Relax the tension from the belt by rotating the tensioner clockwise (as viewed from front). When all belt tension has been relaxed, remove accessory drive belt.
14. 5.9L HDC-Gas Engine: Relax the tension from the belt by rotating the tensioner counterclockwise (as viewed from front). When all belt tension has been relaxed, remove accessory drive belt.
15. Remove the four water pump pulley-to-water pump hub bolts and remove pulley from vehicle.
16. Remove the lower radiator hose and heater hose from water pump.


Loosen heater hose coolant return tube mounting bolt and remove tube from water pump. Discard the old tube O-ring.


18. Remove the seven water pump mounting bolts.
19. Loosen the clamp at the water pump end of bypass hose. Slip the bypass hose from the water pump while removing pump from vehicle. Do not remove the clamp from the bypass hose.
20. Discard old gasket. CAUTION: Do not pry the water pump at timing chain case/cover. The machined surfaces may be damaged resulting in leaks. INSTALLATION

1. Clean gasket mating surfaces.
2. Using a new gasket, install water pump to engine as follows: Guide water pump nipple into bypass hose as pump is being installed. Install water pump bolts. Tighten water pump mounting bolts to 40 Nm (30 ft. lbs.) torque.
3. Position bypass hose clamp to bypass hose.
4. Spin water pump to be sure that pump impeller does not rub against timing chain case/cover.
5. Install a new O-ring to the heater hose coolant return tube. Coat the new O-ring with antifreeze before installation.
6. Install coolant return tube and its mounting bolt to engine. Be sure the slot in tube bracket is bottomed to mounting bolt. This will properly position return tube.
7. Connect radiator lower hose to water pump.
8. Connect heater hose and hose clamp to coolant return tube.
9. Install water pump pulley. Tighten bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.) torque. Place a bar or screwdriver between water pump pulley bolts to prevent pulley from rotating.
10. Relax tension from automatic belt tensioner. Install drive belt.


CAUTION: When installing the serpentine accessory drive belt, the belt must be routed correctly. If not, engine may overheat due to water pump rotating in wrong direction. For correct belt routing. The correct belt with correct length must be used.

11. Position fan shroud and fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to vehicle as a complete unit.
12. Install fan shroud.
13. Install fan blade/viscous fan drive assembly to water pump shaft.
14. Fill cooling system.
15. Connect negative battery cable.
16. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Now see that is what I am talking about for info. !!! Thank you very much kevinb70. It is appreciated very much. Now if I could just get you to do it for me it would be even better. HAHAHA!!!
No, really thanks alot.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Alright we have a little update. This morning at 10:00 in the morning the pump let go 50 miles from home. Have to get it towed home. YIIPPPEEE!!!!
 
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