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On my 77 it seems like non of the gauges are reading anything?? the fuel alt and temp are all not moving. were is this regulater and would an autozone carry this part???
 

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Do It In A Van
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You'll have to pull your gauge cluster out. The volt reg. for the gauges plugs into the back. You should be able to get this part.
 

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okay the dash is apart so that is no problom liiki at the gauradge and u can see a pic but would this fix the problom
 

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If there is a problem with the voltage limiter or wiring to it you will loose the temp, fuel and oil pressure gauges. You must check for voltage in and out of the limiter and chech for corrosion or wiring problems on the printed circuit board or the round connector plug that attaches to it.
 

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I have the same problem, but I don't see anything plugged into the cluster anywhere, I completely removed the gauges, and I see where the ampmeter is wired, and the round cluster of wires, and the speedometer, but that is it, the only things left are the lights on the back of the bracket, that screw into the printed board..... what does the regulator look
 

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It's a small metal box that plugs in by amp gauge you should see the slots for it. I think its 2, one slot is straight and one slot is vertical.
 

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Ok, I'm looking at the back of my gauge cluster, I see where all the gauges come through, and Directly next to the spot where the round plug goes, and directly below the fuel gauge, these is 3 slots where nothing is plugged in, they look like brass slots, on the inside of the cluster, there is a block shaped componet soldered to the board, is this my problem? my Voltage regulator is missing?
 

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vandle835 said:
On my 77 it seems like non of the gauges are reading anything?? the fuel alt and temp are all not moving. were is this regulater and would an autozone carry this part???
Hi all...the Voltage Limiter or Regulator for the GAUGES ONLY looks like this...



The Voltage Regulator that charges the battery looks like this...

 

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well, Crud.....Ok, went Salavge hopping today, got a dash Voltage regulator, and a speedomeeter...... Wife sat on the speedometer on the way home, and broke the Needle... Urgghhhhhh.....Found that I have both regulators on my truck, On under the dash, on the insturment panel, and one under the hood,
From What Chump said, The one under the hood controls my battery charging, is there a way to test it before I drop 30 bucks on something Imight not need?
trying to do this the cheapest possible way, so any input is accepted
 

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P.S. Someone said to replace my alternator with one with an internal regulator? can I do with without modifying the electrical system?
 

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GoatHerder said:
P.S. Someone said to replace my alternator with one with an internal regulator? can I do with without modifying the electrical system?
Forget the alternator change. This is on your 1978 D200?

Call around to Autozone and some of the other auto parts stores to see if they can test your old voltage regulator. Autozone sells new ones for $12 and you can get them by the handfuls at the junkyard as they are used from around 1972-1987 in most Mopar cars and trucks.
 

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how do you check inst. gauge voltage? I know on my 1981 Ford truck you could turn the little screw on the back of the regulator, but on a dodge I dont know what the readings should be and wheres the best way to check it? I was told that there is a way of adjusting it if the gauges read erratic or real low.
 

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Hey Chump, Im having the amp guage problem. It hasn't worked since I bought the truck 3 yrs. ago. '87 D-150. The battery is charging just fine but I would like to have that guage working. ( All other guages are working properly) Do u think it's that box that u put a pic of in the earlier post? Thanx.....R.V.
 

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red83150 said:
how do you check inst. gauge voltage? I know on my 1981 Ford truck you could turn the little screw on the back of the regulator, but on a dodge I dont know what the readings should be and wheres the best way to check it? I was told that there is a way of adjusting it if the gauges read erratic or real low.
On Dodge this is not adjustable. If all 3 gauges read high or low or peg sometimes, you must replace the Limiter after you check for other problems.

Testing and Inspection
Gauge failures are often caused by defective wiring or grounds. The first step in locating trouble should be a thorough inspection of all wiring, terminals and printed circuits. If wiring is secured by clamps, check to see whether the insulation has been severed, thereby grounding the wire. In the case of a fuel gauge installation, rust may cause failure by corrosion at the ground connection of the tank unit.

CONSTANT VOLTAGE REGULATOR TYPE (CVR)
The Constant Voltage Regulator (CVR) type indicator is a bimetal-resistance type system consisting of an Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR), an indicator gauge, and a variable resistance sending unit. Current to the system is applied to the gauge terminals by the IVR, which maintains an average pulsating value of 5 volts.
The indicator gauge consists of a pointer which is attached to a wire-wound bimetal strip. Current passing through the coil heats the bimetal strip, causing the pointer to move. As more current passes through the coil, heat increases, moving the pointer farther.
The circuit is completed through a sending unit which contains a variable resistor. When resistance is high, less current is allowed to pass through the gauge, and the pointer moves very little. As resistance decreases due to changing conditions in system being monitored, more current passes through gauge coil, causing pointer to move farther.

Voltage Limiter Test
1. Connect one lead of a voltmeter to temperature sending unit and other lead to a good ground. Do not disconnect sending unit lead from sending unit.
2. Turn ignition switch to On position and observe voltmeter.
3. A fluctuating voltmeter indicates that voltage limiter is operating.


VARIABLE VOLTAGE TYPE
The variable voltage type dash gauge consists of two magnetic coils to which battery voltage is applied. The coils act on the gauge pointer and pull in opposite directions. One coil is grounded directly to the chassis, while the other coil is grounded through a variable resistor within the sending unit. Resistance through the sending unit determines current flow through its coil, and therefore pointer position.
When resistance is high in the sending unit, less current is allowed to flow through its coil, causing the gauge pointer to move toward the directly grounded coil. When resistance in the sending unit decreases, more current is allowed to pass through its coil, increasing the magnetic field. The gauge pointer is then attracted toward the coil which is grounded through the sending unit.

Dash Gauge Test
1. Disconnect electrical connector from sending unit.
2. Turn ignition to On position.
3. Ground sending unit lead and observe gauge. If gauge does not move to high side of scale, the gauge or wiring is defective. If gauge responds when grounded, replace sending unit.
 

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vestpuzzle1 said:
Hey Chump, Im having the amp guage problem. It hasn't worked since I bought the truck 3 yrs. ago. '87 D-150. The battery is charging just fine but I would like to have that guage working. ( All other guages are working properly) Do u think it's that box that u put a pic of in the earlier post? Thanx.....R.V.

There's probably nothing wrong with your gauge. After 1980 Dodge changed the operation of the ammeter because of earlier year trucks having fires. Your ammeter is no longer a full flow type and the needle moves very little. You might consider installing an aftermarket Voltmeter to monitor your system. Here's a 2 page article about the old ammeters.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
 

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Hey there Chump, Thank you very much! I'm going to town and get a package of Heat Shrink tubes and arming myself with the great info you had posted. I'll keep u posted on my progress. Again, THANX!......R.V.
 

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WOW! Excellent article!
I've owned my 79' PW for 3 years now and the amp guage never did work. I installed a voltmeter about 2 weeks after I bought it and never did worry about the amp guage after that.
However, seeing exactly where the weak links are and how to fix it, I may be doing some screwdrivering and soldering this weekend.
I have a 100 amp alt and a pump for the snowplow hydralics (Which pulls a lot more amps than an AC) under the hood. I'm glad that everything hasn't fried yet.

THANKS for the info! I hate electrical probs and I hate walking back home even more ;)
 

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No kidding, I put a ne Voltage regulator in, and BAM! Fired up,and runs NICE for an unrebuild 318 from 1978 hehe, now, to start collecting dash pieces
 
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