Hey NS,NSXTASY said:u dont want to run any veggie oil in a common rail engine, especially now that winter is here... On the older IDI engines, maybe, with a two-tank system and modifications, but not on a 3rd gen RAM cummins engine.
hey there. first off, 140 *F is not close to being hot enough. Problem is that's the heat regulation of the cooling system, so you would need somehow to add energy and heat way above 140 *F. That's not all your problems howeber... Why ? (1) because even at 140 *F, the viscosity of SVO or WVO is nowhere close to #2 or biodiesel. (2) if you take a good look at your engine, you will realize that all that metal will act as a heat sink. Especially at the common rail. In order to be even at 140*F for the SVO, the temperature will initally require be much higher than that for a substantial time so that the SVO is at the right temperature when about to be injected. (3) Common rails are not designed to operate at those temperature. All metals and rubbers dilate with heat and the tolerances where designed to work at much lower temperatures that SVO/WVO are required to be. (4) injectors on common rail diesel spray several times per cycle at much higher pressures than on IDI engines. The spray patterns must be correct. Without proper injectors designed for a 17x more viscous fuel, incorrect patterns will not allow correct firing. There are many other reasons why, and you can find them with a little research. If you must run SVO/WVO in a diesel truck engine, the popular choice is the 7.3L powerstroke engine which was really working great with it.slide187 said:Hey NS,
Can you expand on why? The Veg system can't (or shouldn't) be switched to until the VO is above 140 deg anyways. And then it behaves like diesel, and BioDiesel (which i noticed you run) but it has no adverse chemical properties with respect to the rubber in the engine components, like biodiesel.
Not to mention that you have to backflush the veg system with diesel at shut-down leaving no veg oil in the fuel circuit. You actually end up w/ a little diesel in your veg tank.
It just seems to me like the outside temp, AND type of injection system is irrelevant beyond a method of accessing it, since the veg gets in its own tank heated prior to using it, and flushed out after using it.
Huh ?!? :huh: please go back to that site and read more. There seems to be a few things you missed about Biodiesel...slide187 said:I've read that site a few times... alot of the pump failures and things like that were from people who run BioDiesel. which, lets face it, is VO too, just with some ethanol in it, which obviously lowers the viscosity, as does pre-warming the VO.
The common rails are operating at fuel temperature, which can vary from very cold (think cold morning in winter in Canada) to warm. Actually, the entire system is designed so that the flow of fuel has a cooling effect. The temperature at the common rail is nowhere near the flashpoint of diesel as it's nowhere near the combustion chamber. VO needs to be as hot as possible so that its viscosity matches diesel fuel viscosity. Depending on the feedstock, you may need temps closer to 275-300F or higher.slide187 said:What is the normal temp range at which the common rails were designed to operate? because i thought that the autoignition temp of Diesel #2 was somewhere around 490*F. And how hot do you think the VO needs to get b4 injection?
:huh:slide187 said:Plus these guys are all talkin about blending diesel with WVO, BioDiesel with WVO (which to me seems redundant) even WVO with RUG (which is stupid cause RUG has higher Octane than Cetane. They're inverse indexes, so adding this to WVO is like tossin some milk in your OJ, like you or I, your truck will eventually puke) PLUS, they're all doin it thru single tank systems....
Once you reach the IP, it's the same hardware, either you are using D2 or VO. This's the most expensive item in your fuel system and which is going to eventually go bad. Bio does not harm IPs like VO does. Without additives, #2 diesel is not that much better than straight bio. Biodiesel clouds faster than #2, but stays cloudy longer than #2 does. The b99 bio I make stays clear all the way down to 37F and only gels if put in the freezer.slide187 said:And it seems to me none of this should matter with a two tank system that has separate fuel lines, separate pumps, separate filters, which were designed for VO and especially since the Veg system gets flushed out with good old fashioned high Cetane Diesel at the end of each drive... which makes me also ask the question, how can Biodiesel be any less damaging to a common rail when you start, run, and shut-down the system with it? it gels way higher than straight diesel, and you have no secondary system with which to flush it all out of the fuel line, it just sits there until the next time you drive. How's that better?
yes, imho you need more reading and research on the subject. good luck whatever your decision is...slide187 said:[...] Guess it's gonna take another 6 months or so of research.
Thanks for the different point of view on it. gives me some new questions to ask the installers.
I've read that site a few times... alot of the pump failures and things like that were from people who run BioDiesel. which, lets face it, is VO too, just with some ethanol in it, which obviously lowers the viscosity, as does pre-warming the VO. What is the normal temp range at which the common rails were designed to operate? because i thought that the autoignition temp of Diesel #2 was somewhere around 490*F. And how hot do you think the VO needs to get b4 injection?
If you read into those sites more you should see that pump faliures are rare and are prevented by replacing the fuel pump and filter shortly after switching from normal Diesel to bio-diesel. When you use bio it breaks down residue buildups that normal diesel can leave behind.... these deposits can get sucked up by the pump and THAT is when faluire occurs.... so as long as you listen to what they tell you and replace the pump after switching you wont have faluire and the crap that comes along with it
durango13 said:Thanks dude, but my question is about SVO... not BioDiesel... NX referred me to that site casue he brews his own Biodiesel and we were discussing the differences between the two.. he was making his case for Biodiesel cause he uses it... that option will not work for me because of 1. the fact that it requires storing, using and disposal of hazmats like Methanol, and Lye. i have a 2-yr old, and my garage has an in-law appt above it... it's simply not an option. plus i've talked to some specialists about my original concerns... and the stuff i learned from NX... changing fuel filters is kind of common sense.. I was in Iraq for a year, and while there we switched the hummers from diesel to JP-8, and that's all we did for the first two months on ground... change out fuel filters....Plus the veg oil system has its own pump and filter. so the point is moot.I've read that site a few times... alot of the pump failures and things like that were from people who run BioDiesel. which, lets face it, is VO too, just with some ethanol in it, which obviously lowers the viscosity, as does pre-warming the VO. What is the normal temp range at which the common rails were designed to operate? because i thought that the autoignition temp of Diesel #2 was somewhere around 490*F. And how hot do you think the VO needs to get b4 injection?
If you read into those sites more you should see that pump faliures are rare and are prevented by replacing the fuel pump and filter shortly after switching from normal Diesel to bio-diesel. When you use bio it breaks down residue buildups that normal diesel can leave behind.... these deposits can get sucked up by the pump and THAT is when faluire occurs.... so as long as you listen to what they tell you and replace the pump after switching you wont have faluire and the crap that comes along with it
Thanks for your thoughs tho.
I've got a friend that's building a new trail buggy and is wondering about a svo/wvo system for a GM 6.2. I really haven't read anything about it with this engine. any thoughts?NSXTASY said:u dont want to run any veggie oil in a common rail engine, especially now that winter is here... On the older IDI engines, maybe, with a two-tank system and modifications, but not on a 3rd gen RAM cummins engine.
the 6.2 is a IDI engine, not a common rail. Many folks with older suburbans or vans with the 6.2 have installed a two tank system and have never had troubles. Some have had to change the lift pump or the injector pump ($$$) but the larger majority have been trouble free. Any IDI engine is a good candidate for WVO/SVO, as long as the conversion is done right.g-funk said:I've got a friend that's building a new trail buggy and is wondering about a svo/wvo system for a GM 6.2. I really haven't read anything about it with this engine. any thoughts?
The pump you are referring to is the lift pump. yes, a two tank system uses 2 lift pumps and two secondary filters, sometimes, even two tank pickup filters. But once the WVO or D2 reaches the 6 port valve, everything afterwards is common to both the WVO and D2. That's the primary filter and the Injector Pump. The latter usually costs big $$$ if it fails. So his point is not totally moot imho.slide187 said:Plus the veg oil system has its own pump and filter. so the point is moot.
NSXTASY said:Pushing a fluid with a much higher viscosity, higher octane, higher flashpoint, at a higher temperature, at very high pressures can only reduce life and increase tear & wear on a pump not designed to operate in these conditions in the first place.
Comparing the original ignition-combustion engine by Dr. Diesel to a 3rd gen CRD Cummins engine is laughable. Y'all seem to forget that I'm also running very successfully VO in my old mercedes. So, I'm not against SVO or WVO like some make it sound. But running SVO/WVO in a CRD engine is just asking for trouble, imho. :gr_patriodieselracer said:We had men on the moon in the sixties, I think that a few of us can figure out how to burn veggie oil in an engine originally designed to run on peanut oil.