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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Friday on my way home from work my Ram started acting up again. Running rough and smoking. No check engine light came on. Got it home and noticed the cat was glowing red. Restarted and it ran on its own for about 10 seconds and just died. Would not start again. Checked every thing that could be checked externally and found nothing. Even put a timing light on it and every thing was firing when it was supposed to. Double checked the timing on balancer and timing cover all was TDC. Got motivated on Saturday and tore down the front of the engine to see timing marks on crank and cam sprockets and sure enough the crank was not line up @ TDC it was about 25 deg. passed. and the chain had SLOP in it. I removed chain and backed up the crank to TDC. I put new chain/gears on sprayed some starting fluid in the TB to see if it will fire and it is still the same thing will not fire and seems like it is 180 degrees off. I plan on taking off the chain and rotating the crank 180 and see if that will work. I have not did a comp. test yet to see if there is any valve/piston damage. It was original timing chain and gears with wear. Could it be possible for this to go out of time this much? ANY SUGGESTIONS WILL BE GREATLY APPRICIATED!!!
 

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Did you check to make sure #1 was up at TDC before you installed the gear and chain?................170bcuda
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I need to check again. I got a feeling I got TDC @ intake or exaust stroke not the compression/power stroke. I will update when I try this again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
lined up dot to dot, should be all good (I thought). sprockets and chain went on real easy!!!
 

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from the factory dot to dot is on the #6tdc not #1....can be verified by the rotor pointing to the #6 terminal on the cap...cam dot at 6 oclock or down... crank at 12 oclock dot up on the #6tdc....haynes outlines the procedure
 

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Yeah, I would , like dodge pickup said, get a picture from a manual before you go too far. I have bent valves on a 3.8 chrysler minivan just before I went on vacation beacuse I was in a hurry and did not get the info first. ( I also know I am not the only guy to do that! ) So i learn and try not to repaeat.
 

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wow, #6 up at TDC is new to me. WTH did muther mopar do it like that? Is that just with 360 magnums? ...............170bcuda
 

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Just line the dots up.
If you didn't move the distributor it should be right.
Don't make it so damn complicated.
:gr_patrio
 

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Woodstock
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If needs be, it would be ALOT easier to move the distributer than move the timing chain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Distributor is all installed and wired. I still have the timing cover off so it is not too bad taking the chain off. I have a chiltons repair and it calls out TDC on #1, however, #6 is 180 degrees opposite #1. I am gonna rotate the crank 360 (line up the dots again and see if it fires). It still baffles me that the lower end got out of time that much just from a worn/stretched timing chain. Should be home around 5 pm should be out in the shop by 5:15. Will let yall know what happens.

:rck:
 

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Did you get the slot in the dist/oil pump drive gear lined up right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
never removed distributor, just timing chain/gears. Distributor is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
from the factory dot to dot is on the #6tdc not #1....can be verified by the rotor pointing to the #6 terminal on the cap...cam dot at 6 oclock or down... crank at 12 oclock dot up on the #6tdc....haynes outlines the procedure
Just popped the cap and dot to dot is #6 TDC.
 

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Woodstock
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What everyone is saying is that if the timing is 180 degrees out, you can turn the distributer to point to #1 cylinder and everything will be O'tay. But, since you have the timing chain off already just align the timing that way..
Remove the chain and point the dot on the crank and the camshaft straight up and it should be right. I still bet it would be easier to just pull the dist. up enough to spin the rotor button 180 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am gonna give it a try tonight. Thanks for all the help guys!!!
 

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Just popped the cap and dot to dot is #6 TDC.
good..that shows that the top end is in time ie...cam , oil pump shaft and dizzy...now is the bottem end on the #6TDC or is it on the #1tdc ? how are you finding tdc ? i wouldnt remove the dizzy as you havent messed with it so why would you ? its not off...then you'll need a scanner with live data to set the fuel sync...turning the dizzy does nothing for ignition timing....glowing cat was a symptom ? 30lb injectors are the result of mass amounts of un-burnt fuel collecting in the cat and may have clogged it...30# way to big on a N/A stock/bolt-on motor...24's are running pig rich @wot , i need to tune them back...unbolt the y-pipe from the header or a vac gauge can help with diagnosing the cat
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
good..that shows that the top end is in time ie...cam , oil pump shaft and dizzy...now is the bottem end on the #6TDC or is it on the #1tdc ? how are you finding tdc ? i wouldnt remove the dizzy as you havent messed with it so why would you ? its not off...then you'll need a scanner with live data to set the fuel sync...turning the dizzy does nothing for ignition timing....glowing cat was a symptom ? 30lb injectors are the result of mass amounts of un-burnt fuel collecting in the cat and may have clogged it...30# way to big on a N/A stock/bolt-on motor...24's are running pig rich @wot , i need to tune them back...unbolt the y-pipe from the header or a vac gauge can help with diagnosing the cat
:teacher:


I think it is #6 TDC in relation to the gear dots. I am thinking about putting the timing cover and balancer on to see where I am when I try to get TDC on #1, the top should line up I would just need to make sure I got the bottom on the compression stroke. I guess I can do thet on #6 too. ANY SUGGESTIONS ARE WELCOME!! As far as a scanner goes, I dont have one, I just got the high energy programmer and that is not even installed yet. I wanted to get some miles on the truck. I got 118 miles since I replaced the intake. So how would I be able to set the fuel sync with out one? I got the y-pipe and cat off. Cat is clear, I can see light through the other side. I think the stock injectors were 23#'s they had one hole. The 30#'s have 3. I talked to a guy at Summit and he said they would be fine with a bigger TB/and good air intake. It is only 7#'s more per hour. Should have dun my homework on that one. DODGEPICKUP you have been a great help!!!!!! You got any more advice/knowledge for me?
 

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ANY SUGGESTIONS...yes line it up dot to dot with the crank on the #6....rotate crank one turn or 360...now your on #1tdc...rotor pointing to #1....to set the fuel sync theres a #1 or dot on the cam sensors outer edge...line it up with rotor and lock the dizzy down....this will get you close enough to start and should run good....if it dont you have other issues...take it to a shop to use there scanner(snap-on )bring the rpms up to 1k and set it to approx +2/+4 by turning the dizzy slightly....give pcm time to relearn....you havent messed with the dizzy have you?injectors....most injectors are rated @39psi or 43.5psi bar3....96-up rams run @49psi...more psi the more they flow...our injectors are 23.XXlbs(grey tops) but @[email protected] there approx 22lb....the 30's are like a 33lb @49psi...multi hole is a goodthing just find injectors closer to stock...30's would be for a hot 360-408....
edit...plug your old ones in , hook up the exhaust for the 02 or it will run like crap...will go into limp mode after X amount of time...good luck
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248429
 
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