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Discussion Starter #1
I need to get some suggestions on how to remove a stripped-out fill plug in a NV242 transfer case.

The lube place that has been servicing my 1999 Dakota for quite a while recently stripped-out the fill plug in my NV242 transfer case. And what I mean by stripped-out is not the threads of the plug or the case, but the hex socket itself in the fill plug. The inside corners of the 10mm hex socket have been completely rounded-off so a 10mm hex wrench or 10mm male hex socket just spins around inside the hex socket area of the fill plug. I tried to use my largest extractor which is a #6 (13/32") unit, however, because of the initial taper, the extractor prematurely bottoms-out in the fill plug's shallow hex socket area before the larger diameter portion of the extractor can engage the sides of the rounded-out hex socket section, so it can't get any bite. I don't have any larger metric or SAE hex wrenches (or larger extractors for that matter), so I am pretty much stuck at this point. I thought of hammering in a somewhat wider chisel into the hex socket, but decided against that as I might end up damaging the threads in the softer aluminum case of the transfer case.

Based on all of this, does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can safely remove the fill plug so I can get it replaced?
 

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01RC2WD4.75SPD
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no problem, bring it to a shop that will tack weld a hex driver in there. then they can back it out no problem, Ditch the old plug and grind it off to save the hex driver. Thats my suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I ended up cutting down the length of the extractor so it's getting a good bite in the damaged fill plug now. However, I need to drop my transfer case skid tomorrow so I can get a decent sized wrench on the extractor. If it turns out that I can't get it out, I will probably have to go the welding route.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Success !!

OK, I finally got the damn fill plug out of my transfer case. After I got the transfer case skid plate off, I found that a 14mm 12-point socket fit the square end of the #6 extractor quite well and put a breaker bar on it. However, now that I could get some better leverage and torque on the extractor, I ended up just twisting the business end of the extractor in the fill plug, so that was that. I then investigated drilling the fill plug, however, due to a welded-in crossmember just behind the rear of the transfer case (anchoring the rear of the two front torsion bars), there was no way to reach from the rear into the fill plug area and even if I could have, it would have been at an awkward angle.

So, I tried grinding some more material off of the tapered front of the extractor, but my Baldor twin-wheel grinder wouldn't even begin to tackle the hardened steel. I then went back to my small cut-off saw, put on a new diamond blade and cut another section off the extractor to get to a larger diameter section of the tool. I then banged the extractor end into the buggered cavity in the fill plug and then heated the hell out of the aluminum areas adjacent to the plug with my MAPP gas torch. I put the socket and breaker bar on the extractor again, but when I started to turn the extractor, it started going off-angle and acting like it was just going to spin inside the fill plug cavity again. Just when I was running out of travel on the breaker bar handle, I heard a loud snap and the plug had obviously broken free! After I completed a bit more with the breaker bar, I switched over to my standard 1/2" ratchet wrench and finished getting the extractor and plug out. Here is a shot of my success:


From the fact that the fill plug was totally flush with the back of the case, and yet the drain plug stood off over 1/8", it is very possible that these same quick lube grease monkeys previously overtightened the fill plug, perhaps using an air impact wrench. Anyway, it's out and I'll get a new plug tomorrow.

Don
 
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