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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok...this is a weird one.

2001 2500 V10, 47RE, 4x4, QC, 35000miles

Its been to the dealer recently to get the tranny looked at because I have had this hesitation after the truck sits for just a few minutes. According to the worksheet, they replaced a bunch of stuff in the tranny. Well, the hesitation is still there.

The situation: The truck sits for 5 minutes. I get in and start it up. I put it in drive. I can feel it go into gear and the truck will move forward depending on the grade. I can let it sit like that for 1 second or 1 minute....when I give it gas, it does one of four things: sputter, die, hesitate, or take right off. The situation seems worse the longer it sits or the colder it is.

The dealership has no idea what is wrong. I have recreated the problem for them. They "see" the problem. They have reset all my computer values and even "flashed" the computer.

Still the problem remains. Actually, the other day when I took off (after the reflashing), it coughed and just before it took off, I could have sworn I heard it backfire through the intake.

Also..this thing just doesn't seem to have much power. I was following a friend in a rental '03 Cavalier today. When we went to get on the interstate, I had this thing floored and I couldn't catch him. Something is definately not right

Luckily, I'm getting this all done under warranty. Anyone have similar experience and/or know whats wrong?

Thanks
 

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Well my wife does have a cavalier (stick) and that bugger is fast. But she can't get me on the top end.
 

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Have them check or replace the TPS. A bad TPS would cause a hesitation or stall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info. Funny...I have to rent the same Cavalier when it goes into the shop tomorrow. :D

I've pretty much said the hell with it. They are replacing the TPS, doing a "tune-up", going through the fuel system, and doing an induction cleaning thing.

I think I got taken by the last shop it was in. Shoddy work and substandard/cheap refurb parts. I would do the work myself (except the induction), but I have no tools and I'm in a strange land. I shouldn't say that. OKC is ok. ;) no pun intended. :D
 

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consider the idle air controll motor, or MAP and other various sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update

Well....they replaced the TPS and the fuel pump. They changed the plugs and wires. They performed an induction service on it.

$700.

NOTHING has changed. Its like they didn't do anything.

I am stumped and so are the mechanics. :(

So....Is the only thing left the IAC??? Other than that, the only think I can think of is the computer itself. Then its the whole damned engine. :rolleyes: Hey.....maybe I can get the viper motor. :D hahaha

So..IAC. Can it be bad and not give any fault codes? Can any of the other sensors be flakey and not code???

Sorry for all the questions, but since I'm keeping this beast, I'd at least like it to run right. Thanks:)
 

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Sometimes when the sensors goes out they will not set a code. It's still under warrantee and you don't have to pay for it right? Or are they trying to stick you with the bill?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Its still under an extended warranty, which means each time I go in I get hit for $100. I had it in a couple weeks ago and they overhauled the tranny and all I had to pay was $100 so I guess I'm still on the positive side. :)

Its going back in on Monday. I'll talk to them some more. I've been discussing the info and suggestions, that I get here, with them. We'll see what happens this time.

Thanks for the help y'all :)
 

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everything said:
Its still under an extended warranty, which means each time I go in I get hit for $100. I had it in a couple weeks ago and they overhauled the tranny and all I had to pay was $100 so I guess I'm still on the positive side. :)

I wouldn't pay the bill till i tested it first. If the initial problem isn't fixed why keep paying $100 each time you have to take it back for the same problem?
 

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Like bigredtank said. If they don't fix it then you don't have to pay. As mentioned earlier have them replace the MAP sensor. Also have then throw o2 sensors at it. Bad o2s made my car hesitate. Get fuel pressure and flow tested also. Low fuel pressure would do it to.
Since it gets worse when its cold out I would have them test all of your temp sensors. Coolant, intake....
Does it seem like you have all the power after you get moving?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It seems to be lacking in the power department overall. I know its a 4x4. I know its a 2500. I know it has the towing package and the camper package. But its got a V10! :hair:

I have to take it back in Monday. If they can't figure it out, I'm just going to have to start going up. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update 2

Well...she's back at the shop. They gave me a Grand Caravan as a rental (warranty paid). Getting kinda used to it. Is that bad????? :eek:

Anyway....it told them the ideas I've gleened from y'all. Hopefully they'll get it taken care of. After this, I don't know what to do. :(
 

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I'm curious on this one so let me know what happens. Sure hope they get it fixed. At least you got a rental so you don't have to care how hard ya beat on it.
 

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hot2k1ram
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im stumped on this too, u think after bringing it in so many times they woulda found the problem, maybe the torque convertor is going out?, the timing could be wrong, but a backfire from the intake usually means a valve isnt closing all the way and the fuel still in the intake is ignited a bit by the plug, but im curious as well to see what the hell is going on with it
 

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Have them test your cats too. You probably have 2 of them on your truck, I think all V10s do. I thought I mentioned the cats before but after re-reading everything I noticed I didn't.
They could be clogged and have too much backpressure in the exhaust for it to run properly.
 

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hot2k1ram
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that is a good point, your cats may have broken apart and it's all stuck in your muffler now, a good way to tell is to just get under the truck and see if the muffler has any discoloration on the bottom of the casing, if it does that means there's a hot spot, thats a sure sign that the cats are bad and broken up, go with magnaflow highflow cats if they're bad
 

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hot2k1ram, thats a good way to check the cats by looking at the muff. Where did you learn that one from?
V10s are not OBDII compliant, so if the cats are bad and you don't have to do emissions testing just cut them off and weld or clamp a pipe in there. But since it's under warrentee I don't know if they will give you a choice. Otherwise go with what hot2k1ram suggested. Neither my truck or car has cats in them anymore. In 2009 my truck will have to have a cat since they are changing the laws.
 

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hot2k1ram
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i work at an exhaust shop so i see it all the time, having cats on an OBD I truck with good o2 sensors will get your air/fuel ratio where it's supposed to be, without cats you could be running lean or rich at certain points of the power band, high flow cats are also less likely to break up because they're less pressure in the cat casing itself, i have one on my truck and people always ask if i cut em off
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Latest Update

Sorry about the lateness of this update.......

Well....Its been to the dealer 2 more times since my last entry. It has cost me $1500....and the problem is still there.

Yeah...I'm none to thrilled right now. They kept giving me the runaround so I just went and picked it up. I'm going to go to somewhere else. Problem with that is, I don't know where to go.

Strangely enough.....I just got back from a little test drive. I disconnected the MAP and drove "around the block". Probably 4 miles. It started up just the same. I was parked and I popped the throttle, the idle would fluctuate a couple times and then it would settle. Then on the drive, whenever I would give it too much gas, it would bog down. (just like it does when I first take off after it has sat for a half hour or so). If I put my foot into it, it bogs, backfires, and generally pisses and moans, but it eventually gets up to speed. If I keep a light foot on it, everything is fine.

So....does this sound like the MAP? The dealer said they replaced it, but I have this gut feeling. I didn't see any old parts, so who knows.

As for 98QuadCabV10's suggestion: well...I just took a look. The cats are rustier then hell. The muffler looks like its about to rust through. Its all still solid though.....just looks crappy. There is a dark "stain" that starts about 7 or 8 inches from the front of the muffler and gets darker and wider (inch and a half or so) as it goes to the rear. I'll try to get some pics of it and post them tomorrow.

I appreciate the help here. I'm going to get this solved....one way or the other.

Thanks again
 

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I don't think you should have to pay anything for it. Your truck is under warranty which means you don't have to pay a cent for it until the warranty runs out. Since they haven't even fixed your truck you should go back there and get all of your money back. All they are doing is screwing you. I hate dealers. Is there another Dodge dealer you could bring it to or is that the only one in your area?
As far as the map sensor goes, if your truck runs the exact same with the MAP disconnected I would see if the connector is getting any voltage to it or it could just be a bad sensor. Is there any codes on your truck?
I was hoping you would have had it fixed by now.
 
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