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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All, I'm posting here for the first time seeking guidance from someone who knows more than I do about cars. :)
I have a 94 Dodge Grand Caravan ES AWD, 3.8L V6, new transmission in 2005 at 123K, currently about 170K miles. This has been a perfect, reliable vehicle for my family. With the exception of replacing the transmission & radiator, most repairs have been minor or typical for its age. And it leaks a little oil.

Over the past 6 months it's been hesitating on take off. Not much oomph. About a month ago it started to either threaten to stall or stall completely when idling or sharp turning. Today, it stalled 4 times in a 2 mile drive at a light and turning in and out of a parking lot. If I get it in neutral at a stop light -when the light changes I can shift to drive and give it gas quickly and it won't stall. This makes driving an adventure or a pain in the ass - however you look at it. It's driving me crazy.

First, I should say that we are not financially able to take the van to a mechanic for every repair. My husband is pretty good about repairing minor stuff that doesn't require expensive tools. I'm really hoping this is one of those fixes he can handle inexpensively.

My husband is thinking fuel filter. My searches come up with all sorts of diagnoses. Like: TPS sensor, throttle body intake, EGR valve, AIC Motor, someone else said "part beneath the distributor cap and the issue was spark-side as opposed to fuel-side".

I would greatly appreciate any insight you have before he starts taking things apart this weekend.

Thanks in advance,
Lisa
 

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Check the fuel pressure. It's easy and you're at the point when fuel pumps start going bad. 170K miles is also way past due for a fuel filter change.
What about the air filter? If it's clogged it can stall. Rare...but worth a check

I would be of the opinion that your symptoms "seem" to point to a fuel delivery problem. But, like you stated in the OP...it could be a number of things.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you so much for your reply. You reminded me that we also replaced the fuel pump in 2005. That's still a long time ago and could be the problem. I hope not...it was a $600 repair back then. I'm not sure how to check fuel pressure but I'll pass on that suggestion to my husband. Thanks again ~Lisa
 

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When I re-read your post, the fact that turning seems to affect this has me thinking.

Have your husband carefully clean the battery terminals and terminals and re tighten them. While at it, have the battery tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Solution

Sorry for the delay in posting the final outcome. So, my husband tried a couple of inexpensive things first without success. We obviously don't have the equipment to test and diagnose. Rather than say, eeny meeny miny moe..which part do we replace next? We decided this was a job for a mechanic. It was....drum roll.... several things... TPS (throttle position sensor), IAC (idle air control valve), and a basic tune up (sparks plugs and wires). It's running very nicely now. So nice to have the 'oomph' power back. Thank you all for your guidance!
 

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Great to hear you solved the issue.
Sometimes it's simpler than it appears.

Next time you have an issue, have your husband read this.....
Courtesy Of Crazy Squee... THANK YOU!
(Tried to place a link but it wouldn't paste here properly)

ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS

1. Cycle the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON within 5 seconds. To cycle the ignition key ON means to turn it only as far as it takes to get the radio to come on. It does not mean to turn the engine on.

2. Count the number of times the "check engine" lamp on the instrument panel flashes on and off. The number of flashes represents the code. There is a slight pause between the flashes representing the first and second digits of the code. Longer pauses separate individual codes. For example, flash-flash-flash [pause] flash-flash represents the code 32.

A code of "55" represents end of error codes. If this is all you get then no error codes are stored in the computer. This is the normal condition for a neon.
CODE Description of Trouble Code
11 Timing belt skipped 1 tooth or more from initial learned value, Intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor, No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12 Direct battery input to PCM was disconnected within the last 50 key-on cycles
13 No change in MAP from start to run
14 MAP sensor voltage too low
15 No vehicle speed sensor signal
17 Closed loop temp not reached or engine cold too long
21 02s sensor problem (oxygen sensor), upstream or down stream
22 Engine coolant temp sensor out of range
23 Intake air temp sensor out of range
24 Throttle Position sensor out of range
25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found
27 Injector control circuit
31 Evap purge flow monitor failure or evap solenoid circuit
32 EGR system failure
33 A/C clutch relay circuit
34 Speed control Solenoid circuits
35 Rad Fan control relay circuit
37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure
41 Generator field not switching properly
42 Fuel pump relay control ckt, Auto shutdown relay control ckt, No ASD relay output voltage at PCM, Fuel level sending unit volts out of range, Fuel level unit No change over miles
43 Multiple/ single cylinder misfire
44 Battery temp sensor volts out of range
46 Charging system voltage too low
51 Fuel system lean
52 Fuel system rich
53 Internal control failure
54 No Cam signal at PCM
55 End of error messages (If you get this only, no errors were found)
62 PCM failure SRI mile not stored
63 PCM Failure EEPROM write denied
64 Catalytic Converter Efficiency Failure
65 Power steering switch failure

And especially thanks for posting the outcome.
Posting back should help others. :gr_patrio
 

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mistypotato said:
And especially thanks for posting the outcome.
Posting back should help others. :gr_patrio
+1
 

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