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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok guys, soon I will be receiving my 2/4.5 drop from Brian of Slammed1, thanks again Brian for your help, I know you said you would continue to help me through the installation but instead of bothering you with petty questions I decided to come to my brothers on here for some advice before i come to you...Ok here we go, Im pretty confident with the removal and installation of the rear flip kit, just deciding whether to weld the perches before or after install for added strength. As as the front goes, I was confortable with it until I started doing some research and finding that people are saying its difficult and others are saying its not, others are saying you need to buy a $100 dollar kit others saying I dont. My question, when it comes to the front, do I need to remove the steering link from the spindle? if so is it easy, does it need special tools? When removing the a-arm ( by that I mean the a-arm ball joint) do I remove the bottom or the top? the top is sounding easiest since people are saying that the bottom requires special tools? I understand the safety factors that come into play when removing the spring and I will take them all but people are also saying I need a spring compressor tool, that sounds dangerous in its own words. Also, i shouldnt have to remove the rotor for this process correct?
 

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Power Wagon #1605
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Remove the rotor just to make it easier on yourself, that thing adds alot of weight to the spindle!
 

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Once the truck is on jacks supporting the frame,and the wheels off with a floor jack under the control arm on the side your working on follow these steps...
Start with slight presssure on the floor jack...
1) remove the front shock (18mm top nut 13mm lower nuts)
2)remove the upper sway bar endlink nut/washer/bushing (16mm nut)
3) remove the upper ball joint and leave on just a few threads at the bottom(21mm nut)
4) On the flat portion of the spindle where the balljoint extends into......hit there with solid blows with a nice heavy hammer to shock the joint loose.
5) finish removing the nut from the upper balljoint and raise the upper aframe from the spindle
6) start lowering the floor jack slowly to relieve pressure off the coil
7) remove the coil from the location it sits in
8) at this time its best to go ahead and cut off the stock metal cup bumstop
9)install the rubber isolator on top of the new coil (must make sure its right) and install back in the truck making sure the lower part of the coil is at rest in the lower pocket correctly.
10) start raising the lower a-frame/spindle back up to the upper balljoint with the floor jack while guiding the sway bar endlink back intot he sway bar(very important step)until you can re-install the upper ball joint to the spindle.
11) tighten the upper balljoint
12) re-install the swaybar bushing/washer/nut in correct order
13) install the new shock with 13mm lower nuts and upper 14mm make sure your rubber bushings and washers are oriented correctly
14) place new bumpstop in the hole that was uncovered with the removal of the factory one

a side note to think about....
I prefer to not even worry about removing the upper joint from the spindle with coil installs.......rather I remove both upper a-frame bolts and just swing the upper aframe around while still attached to the spindle.......reason for this is,you can re-install the upper control arm in the MOST outward position so that YOU know you have MAX camber allowable when its time to get your alignment.......this also makes the alignment tech actually give you a good alignment and NO excuses for not having right camber.

I also dont remove any brake components,just be sure not to stretch the brake lines too much when you do it this way.

pic below shows double circles where you should hit to break loose the upper joint,and the other circle shows where to remove the tie rod linkage from if you choose to.
 

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Power Wagon #1605
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nice write up Brian
 

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like Brian said,if your just changing out the springs you don't need to remove the upper a-arm from the spindle,just remove the bottom and drop the spring out.
if you have trouble getting the ball joint loose from the spindle.you can take a propane torch and heat the spindle.it will help,just make sure you don't get the flame on the ball joint boot or it will melt it real quick.i heated mine for about 30 seconds and 2 hits of a hammer and it seperated.
also make sure you leave the nut on the ball joint a when you are sperating it.i have the top of the nut even with the end of the ball joint.i'm sure you know this but just in case,don't try hitting the ball joint when seperating.
its really not that hard.just take your time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
jonnyc said:
like Brian said,if your just changing out the springs you don't need to remove the upper a-arm from the spindle,just remove the bottom and drop the spring out.
if you have trouble getting the ball joint loose from the spindle.you can take a propane torch and heat the spindle.it will help,just make sure you don't get the flame on the ball joint boot or it will melt it real quick.i heated mine for about 30 seconds and 2 hits of a hammer and it seperated.
also make sure you leave the nut on the ball joint a when you are sperating it.i have the top of the nut even with the end of the ball joint.i'm sure you know this but just in case,don't try hitting the ball joint when seperating.
its really not that hard.just take your time.
Ok well I understood what Brian said, but you just contradicted it I think? LOL he said he prefers to unbolt the upper a-arm and swing it around pulling the spring from the top...?right?If thats what he said then I would really prefer that way. :D
 

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my bad.you're right.in his picture he did pull it loose from the top.
when i did mine i had spindles and later went back and cut some of the coil spring and i took mine out from the bottom.
it looks like it would be easier to come out through the top.
 

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Valdez Racing Team
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...the key for me was the heavy hammer (4 lb).....one spindle took about an hour with a claw hammer...the other about 5 minutes to pop th ball joints and tie rod...
 

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Valdez Racing Team
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...either way, you have to weld your perch's, I had mine welded a few days before I did my drop...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
jonnyc said:
my bad.you're right.in his picture he did pull it loose from the top.
when i did mine i had spindles and later went back and cut some of the coil spring and i took mine out from the bottom.
it looks like it would be easier to come out through the top.
LOL no I think he meant unbolt the UPPER A-ARM from the FRAME and then swing it out, so that you dont have to un-due the tie rod, ball joints and all that jazz, only the sway link i think thats what he meant?
 

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Now Hemiplus
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I just wanted to throw out there that when doing the back, the only thing that slowed me down was not having a T-55 torxs (I do now) and it's nice to have a big torque wrench handy (which I did).
 

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Shackle Bolts.

KB
 

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Valdez Racing Team
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...yea I used locking pliers for the bolt... but now have the torx
 

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360Plus said:
I just wanted to throw out there that when doing the back, the only thing that slowed me down was not having a T-55 torxs (I do now) and it's nice to have a big torque wrench handy (which I did).


thats funny, when i installed my shackles i noticed the Torx head . I was like damnit, i knew i had bought a set years ago but was like i aint gonna have that size, so after diggin thru an old tool box, guess what i find ??that size Torx. I couldnt beleive it, all rusty and crap all over, worked like a champ, funny thing was i spent more time looking for it then it would have taking me to go get one from the store, hahahaha
 

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OncGMnowHemi said:
Ok well I understood what Brian said, but you just contradicted it I think? LOL he said he prefers to unbolt the upper a-arm and swing it around pulling the spring from the top...?right?If thats what he said then I would really prefer that way. :D
Slammed1's way is a faster and easier way to get the spring out then unbolting the ball joint like most people would do. Its good advice.

A year of flat-rate has taught me how to recognize a good timing saving idea :D
 
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