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I need a truck!!!
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so tonite im driving around and my temp guage spikes and the "check guage" light comes on. So i pulled over and turned the heat on and it went down. Didnt have another problem with it all night, never got above 1/2 way on the guage. Later that night i go to start my truck and all i hear is CLICK CLICK CLICK no start. So i get a buddy to come try to jump start me.

Well his car no longer has ANYTHING no lights no nothing. The cables were secured correctly and everything. When the tow truck came after he got it up on the truck he noticed there was oil EVERYWHERE on the front end of the truck on the inside. Now i have never had oil leaks EVER no spots under the truck or anything.

Anyonw have ANY idea what this could be? They are supposed to call me tomorrow once they find out what it is but im freaked about what it could actually be.

AHHHH im going crazy, worst thing that has happend since i got it was the heater core going out, and that was over a year ago.
 

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Do It In A Van
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The only thing I can think about for the temp. spiking is possibly a thermostat sticking. Oil all over the front of the engine could be a front crank seal that has decided to let go.
 

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Was he sure it was oil and not anti-freeze. It seems most logical that is what would be leaking with the temp gauge spiking.
 

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Just my .02..... Maybe your front seal (or something) went out and slung oil all over your serpentine belt. This may have caused the belt to slip on all the pulleys including the alternator pulley (battery discharge) and the water pump pulley (over heat). It may sound far fetched, but I work at a Furd dealer and I have actually seen that happen before. Check your oil level and inspect the belt. Check the pulleys and see if there is an extremely worn spot on any one of them because of the belt slipping. Hope this helps.
 

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Older, but no wiser.
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Glowplug... that sounds very plausable to me. A big splash of Anti freeze or oil could cause a belt to slip enough to do this. 1D, could you have lost the belt and thats why it died? That would explain the temp spike and the dead batt. Also look into a worn out belt tensioner. If the old one isnt tight, it can allow the belt to slip enough to cause an over heat/discharge and still be in place. Good luck... Chris
 

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I need a truck!!!
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok well i got the truck back today. He said the battery was just dead. But i dont get why it wasnt able to be jump started then. I need new intake gaskets, and a rear o2 sensor. Estimate for those 2 things installed was $950. Does that sounds right? I dont have the money and the guy said i could drive it like this and just to make sure my antifreeze level doesnt get to low.
 

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$950!!! :hair: For intake gaskets and an O2 sensor?! Holy crap! Is that a quote from the dealer? Seems very high to me. Look, I wouldn't let my worst enemy pay that much for something like that. The parts may cost $150 at the most (probably $60 dealer cost). Thats $800 labor! At an average $75-$80 an hour, they will be charging you for over 9 hours of labor! On a job that would take a housewife with a Haynes manual about 3 hours. Please do yourself and every person who has ever been robbed by a dealer a favor.... at least give it a shot. I have no idea how handy you are with tools, but even if you struggle with a can opener on occasion, you would be doing yourself (and your wallet) great justice by picking up a manual and doing the work yourself. Sorry about the econ. lesson and I hope it doesn't sound like I'm talking down. I have mentioned where I work and sometimes I really feel like a criminal when people think they have no choice but to pay the high labor rates at the dealer. Granted, I just do the work and have no interaction with the customer, but I know what goes on to get the work in there. Either way, good luck on whatever you decide to do.
 

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By the way, intake gaskets.... are they leaking coolant? Even so, where did the oil come from? Why did they say you need a rear O2? The reason I ask about the coolant and O2 is because they may be related. If the gaskets are leaking coolant into the intake (however little of an amount), the rear O2 will be effected by the coolant in the exhaust. If there is no coolant in the intake, maybe the dealer pulled an O2 code that was caused by your aftermarket exhaust. Anybody who drives staring at a CEL caused by modified exhaust knows that this code is just a nusance. The dealer, however sees a poor sucker with $$$$. Either way, I'm thinking you shouldn't be driving it until the problem is fixed. Intake gaskets leaking air is one thing, but leaking coolant is a whole other can of worms. If the leak opens up, you could park your truck when you get home after work, the pressure builds up (engine temp actually goes up a little for a short time after you shut down), the coolant spills over into one or more intake ports, and partially fills a cylinder. You decide a couple of hours later to go grab a beer, jump in, fire it up..... boom... hydrolock. Bent rod comes to mind, but a lot of other damage can happen. Just be weary if you do drive it. Sorry again for being long winded, but I'd hate to see a Dodge get hurt. I hope any of this helps. :cool:
 

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I need a truck!!!
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i doubt the sensor needs to be replaced my cat rattles to no tomorrow so i KNOW its shot and fallling apart inside itself. Im alright with tools. Any members from MN in here that wanna help me out? I definatly dont want to pay 900 for parts and labor. The quote was from the same company that towed my truck to their shop. I got ripped off on the tow truck 50 bucks to tow it like 6 blocks....i should have pushed it.
 

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Actually the tow seems about right. Most tow places charge a minimum amount. (around here most are in the $60-$75 range) Although they should have told you that before they did it.

As for the other work, if you dont feel comfortable doing the work yourself, at least get other estimates. Seeing as you can drive it, it should be no problem getting 3-4 different quotes.
 
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