[Matrix]

I really like this product and have used it on every car Ive had.

Does anyone know of any reason why I shouldnt use it in my Magnum RT?
Asking the dealer is a waste of time. If they cant profit in it they wont recomend it EVEN if its better for the car (in my opinion)

Your thoughts would be welcomed.

 

[Rockadile]

My main concern would be if it would affect the MDS system since the weight of the oil seems to influence whether or not it works.

 

[grinner]

All I can say is I made the infomercials for slick50 when it first came out and it just didn't work. We were paid to make it look like it did.
Your manual says it's a no no.
I'd stick to that in this case.

 

[MagnumSXT]

I'll have to disagree. Drove a 440 4'spd GTX 75 miles with no oil and received no engine wear after a treament of slick 50. (The original stuff like 20 years ago). Replaced the drain plug and all was well.

I also put it in an 85 T-Bird Turbo coupe that had been oil starved and camshaft was all burred up. Literally got metal shavings in my fingers from it. Put some in (called lubrilon at that time I believe) and ran for a couple weeks while I was getting the new cam and stuff. Pulled the valve cover again to do the R&R and the camshaft was just as slick as snot.

So, I do believe in the stuff. I do think that the Slick 50 formula is not the same as it was way back when. They had sold the rights to marke the name, then when the patent/copyright, whatever, expired, the "new" slick 50 company had to pony up their own product. All the while the original company was improving the formula. That's where the lubrilon came from. Heres a link that explains it a little better.

So I guess IMO the original slick 50 was good, the new product is good, but the current slick 50 is not.

 

[67alecto]

All I can say is I made the infomercials for slick50 when it first came out and it just didn't work. We were paid to make it look like it did.
Your manual says it's a no no.
I'd stick to that in this case.

Was that the one where they were driving the viper in the desert without oil?

I also remember a scene where they had an engine running, yanked the valve covers, and just started pouring sand in there.

My brother and I usually will remark to one another when we see something like that "well, if it works just half as good as they say it will..." Unfortunately, I've never come across anything like that.

Last thing I felt like I was suckered into buying was that GS-20 scratch remover or whatever it was called - you know, the commercial that shows people keying their own cars, then making all of the scratches disappear with the magical cream. I bought a tube when I saw it in Target and it really didn't do anything that a good color wax wouldn't do - it helped hide minor paint damage. Forget any scratches or chips, though.

 

[desquirrel]

Like I have repeatedly said on these boards, advertising hype is not proof. And "I used XXXXX for 20000 miles and nothing bad happened" is an absolutely meaningless statement.

And anytime you are tempted to "upgrade" from Pennzoil or Mobil 1 to the new "super royal extra purple ultra synthetic" with the subatomic micro ball bearing molecules because they tore apart an engine after 200,000 mi and found ABSOLUTELY no wear, remember that Consumer Reports took apart FLEETS of taxi engines at 200,000 on standard oil and found no wear.

`

 

[tampahemi]

I really like this product and have used it on every car Ive had.

Does anyone know of any reason why I shouldnt use it in my Magnum RT?
Asking the dealer is a waste of time. If they cant profit in it they wont recomend it EVEN if its better for the car (in my opinion)

Your thoughts would be welcomed.

Yes, the holes that are used to activate MDS are very, very small. PTFE resins could and probably will clog those holes. All you need is a good 5W-20 motor oil.

 

[SLAPPY]

slick 50

just go with synthetic.mobile 1 just came out with 5w20