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Discussion Starter #1
I'm interested in some simple performance mods for my 92 D250 5.9 V8. The truck is a work truck and i don't want to do anything that would compromise that aspect of it. With less then 200HP and 5.9L however im sure there is more left in this thing. I'm not terribly interested in changing the t-body or camshaft. I could see a camshaft if one could be found to not compromise low end. Headers would be an option if they had any significant impact. Is there a chip available for this thing?

Before you start talking about maintenance before mods (should you have read my other thread about fixing all the already broken bits) i will not be doing anything performance related till she is all fixed up.

Does anyone have any recommendations for a good American-made tachometer? I hate buying those Chinese pieces of sh*t they they offer at AutoZone.
 

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Aka Force Fed Mopar
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It should be over 200hp, IIRC all the 5.9 Magnums were at least 245hp. Dual exhaust w/ an h-pipe. MP computers should still be available from various vendors, like Mancini.
 

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4 Wheel Power Disc Brakes
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You could change the rockers to 1.7's if it's a magnum for about $200, about $350+$50 for pushrods that to upgrade an LA to 1.6 ratio.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You could change the rockers to 1.7's if it's a magnum for about $200, about $350+$50 for pushrods that to upgrade an LA to 1.6 ratio.
Haha, can you explain this better. This is the first pushrod motor ive ever had that i have looked at digging into. Ive helped friends put 5.0 form motors together so i understand how it works but i'm not up on the jargon.
 

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Aka Force Fed Mopar
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You could change the rockers to 1.7's if it's a magnum for about $200, about $350+$50 for pushrods that to upgrade an LA to 1.6 ratio.
Good call, I forgot about rockers :cool: He has a Magnum I believe.

Validius, increasing the rocker arm ratio gives you some extra lift w/o increasing the duration. Should be a 10-25hp increase, and is pretty easy to install.
 

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Aka Force Fed Mopar
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Not a magnum, just regular old T-Body injection.
Really, you must have an early '92 then. In which case, you are probably right, you have less than 200hp :) Well, you can still add 1.6 roller rockers and exhaust. I don't think there's any computers available for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is that something i can find at the junkyard? If i come across a magnum, should i grab its lifters, pushrods and rockers?
 

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AirFuelEddie
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You'll have to cycle the rocker arm bodies every 10k miles or so. Alluminum 1.7 ratio intake or even exhaust 1.7 ratio rockers are only available in alluminum unless you want to spend $1,000 bucks on a set of Crower Stainless rockers. Thats a lot of cash for only 10-15 H.P. which will occur at higher engine speeds above 3500 RPM's.. On the other hand, Torque is what he really needs! he stated it's work truck and doesnt want to compromise this feature of the truck. I would first install a true duel exhaust or at least a large Y-Pipe into a 3" exhaust or Duals in 2 1/2" size with low restriction mufflers,(omit the cat if you can and your state is lenient like mine or gut the cat), low restriction air cleaner like a K&N X Stream or other carb type air cleaner,(for his 2 barrel TB), they make a baseplate that fits. This is about all you can do for it because there is no way to enrichen the TB injection and the engine will be very lean, way to lean with any other cam as well. Exhaust&Intake are all you can do with the Speed Density Throttle Body Chrysler Fuel Injection. Maybe a 20-25 Lb. Ft. Torque gain and this is probably optimistic. This engine is a good engine for what it's designed to do, it's NOT however a Hot Rodders dream. Most people omit the TB Injection and go with a carb setup as this is the cheapest and most effective way to do it. BTW,, Jet performance makes piggyback modules that are supposed to give a power gain. They Dont. Trust me on this,, Sorry, just being truthful
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yea, exhaust would help allot i think. It does not have dual exhaust, its just a y pipe right after the engine. Are there reasonable priced headers or would simply doing a header-back be worth the expense of the new exhaust?

I may just wait till the exhaust that's on it now rots out (its almost there). As it is this thing pulls everything i need it to just fine. Rescuing my roommate's 4000lb Mercedes (plus 2k lb for the trailer it was on) it did great. At the moment i think i should be more interested in having the radiator cleaned (looks pretty nasty in there) and installing a transmission temperature gauge.
 

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AirFuelEddie
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I have set of Hooker Truck Headers on mine, but mines carbed. I would just install a good dual exhaust system with low restriction mufflers from the manifold back. It's VITAL that you have a good Y pipe 'junction' the part that splits off into a single 3" at least,,exhaust pipe. Duels on the other hand can be 2 1/2" or even 2" for both, sometimes a shop charges the same for 2 vs. 2 1/2..this would be a good setup either way. If you decide on duels an H or X pipe joining the two downstream would also help a bit.
 

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Aka Force Fed Mopar
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Some of the heavy-duty D250's and 350's came w/ a factory dual exhaust setup. I have one I'm thinking of putting on my D150. It's 2 pipes down from the manifolds, has a crossover pipe (h-pipe), then the driver side pipe bends over to run down the pass side of the truck along side the pass pipe, they both go into their own muffler, then right after the mufflers the 2 pipes Y into a large (looks like 2 3/4" maybe) single pipe that goes over the axle and exits to the pass side behind the rear wheel.

If I use it on the '93, I will probably replace the stock mufflers w/ Flows or something similar (has a single Flowmaster currently).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think im gonna do a trans temp setup first. I weighed the truck at the local truck stop's certified scale and it came out to be 4900lb without me in it. I regularly run around with 6000 pounds of trailer which puts the total weight around 11,000lb. I think knowing the trans temp would allot me to make better decisions about speed.
 

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4 Wheel Power Disc Brakes
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I would add an auxillary transmission cooler if you don't have one currently and the gauge 1st then do engine/exhaust mods.
I forgot the pushrods for throttle body engine are ~1/2" shorter due to the roller cam and cost more for ball and cup that most 1.6 ratio rockers use. I came across this when building my engine with Crane rockers and a '91 block with a Competion cam.... I had to look up them by size. (I think there Crane, but could be Competion and cost ~ $120 at the time.)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
My fear with an aux transmission cooler is that it will allow the fluid to not get up to temp in the winter. I suppose i could try and find a cooler that is thermostatically controlled.

What is the best way/place to mount the sensor? Is it peak temps that matter (fluid to the cooler) or the temp of the fluid entering the trans that matters (fluid from the cooler). I'm assuming that the 2 lines going to the bottom of my radiator are to a trans fluid-coolant head exchanger.
 

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Aka Force Fed Mopar
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My fear with an aux transmission cooler is that it will allow the fluid to not get up to temp in the winter. I suppose i could try and find a cooler that is thermostatically controlled.
I don't think that's an issue, IMO.
 

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4 Wheel Power Disc Brakes
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The best place to measure the temperature is at thi line coming out of the front of the transmission as this is were fluid is the hottest.
The lines at the radiator are the factory cooler lines.
Another way to be sure the fluid doesn't get to cold in winter is to connect the cooler in parrallel with the factory cooler using 2 tees.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It looks like there is some form of air-fluid cooler on my radiator that is not connected to anything. A quick check of the manual makes it look like this is an aux trans cooler that in some cars ran in series with the trans-coolant heat exchanger. Assuming i am correct about this i think i'l plumb it in before the trans-coolant exchanger.
 

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Is there an adapter i can place inline with the cooler lines that i can screw the sensor into? I could make one but if one already exists that i can just buy that would be allot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So i pulled the intake manifold as exploratory surgery to determine why the thing threatens to stall, backfires and takes off like a bat out of hell when its cold. I suspected an intake gasket was leaking. When i do my VW work im always sure to make sure i have all the replacement gaskets etc on hand since parts can be hard to come by sometimes. But that doesnt happen on an American car in Detroit right? Except the dealer tells me that the gasket kit is NLA and I have no idea if i need to replace this piece that goes between the throttle body and the manifold.

Pictures here: http://www.aww-kittah-aww.com/up/pupload/view/37079

Looks like i have a large OEM trans cooler that hasnt been piped in. I'l take care of that when i reassemble. Any problems with just using brass couplers?

I'm thinking perhaps i should start a new thread about this, not really on the subject of performance mods anymore.
 
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