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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to change my oil in my truck and I was wondering about switching to Shell Rotella T 5W40 Synthetic Oil. I see the stuff at Walmart and it's got GREAT reviews among the heavy-duty guys. Any reason not to run it? The viscosity isn't that different from 5W20/5W30. I did some research online and Chrysler recommends using 5W20 in Hemi engines with MDS. Our PW's don't have MDS so I assume I'm safe to use this oil? I'm out of warranty if that makes it any different.
 

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我愛貓
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you know what they say about assuming. Why do you want to use it because it's cheap, that's not really a good reason to decide on a product. If you ask me being out of warranty makes a big difference, it's you who has to pay for a new motor now. That said I have never heard of an oil related failure, other then of course not having any, and even those aren't very common. By heavy duty guys you mean the CTD's right, that's a different beast all together. Your not driving a semi and I wouldn't run it.

Right from my owners manual, 08:
Engine Oil Viscosity (SAE Grade)
For trucks with a 5.7L engine operating under a gross
combined weight rating of 14,000 lbs. or greater, SAE
5W-30 engine oil is recommended for all operating
temperatures. For all other trucks with a 5.7L engine,
operating under a gross weight rating less than 14,000
lbs. SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended for all
operating temperatures. This engine oil improves low
temperature starting and vehicle fuel economy. Your
engine oil filler cap also shows the recommended
engine oil viscosity for your vehicle
It says 5w20 on the cap and that's what I run. Are you towing heavily and beating it till it smokes off road on a regular basis? They say 5w30 for heavier duty, 5w40 is thicker then that. If you switch to it make sure you stay with it.
 

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I have used that stuff in our 04' Corolla since it was brand new. Now has 112,000 on it & runs like a champ. Used Castrol Edge for the last 2 oil changes though, for no particular reason. I like that stuff too. Can't see what harm it would do, other than maybe a mpg less because of the 40w part of it.
 

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我愛貓
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It's thicker,won't flow as well that's what harm it can do. I'm sure I am taking the overly cautious view on it but I wouldn't do. If you do I would stay with it because if it does cause any wear on the piston rings or whatever and then you go back to thinner oil now it'll slip through faster then it should. Maybe you won't see a difference, you certainly won't now. If anything is going to happen it's gonna be long term, but whats a few dollars it's only money. Especially when your talking about such an expensive truck.

Quality wise it's supposed to be one of the best though, if you had a flat tappet cam I wouldn't run anything else, but we don't :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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I have read that "diesel" oil(5w40 or 15w40) has more anti friction compounds and more cleaning agents in it than any gas engine weight motor oil. An article in Motor Trend once: They asked a man that has been in the petrolium business for 26 years, what oil would he use if he could only use 1. He said, thats easy, because I do only use 1, 5w40 full syn diesel oil, in all my vehicles, including my boat. He said it has more anti-friction compounds & more cleaning agents in it. Makes sense to me, since big-rig truck engines are so expensive & the compression ratios are so much higher & they work so much harder, seems like it would last longer in a gas engine, or at least give a little safety factor when beatin on it or workin it hard. JMO, NOT gospel. I also use Lucas Lube stuff. It is top notch IMO. Others say it is snake oil. All I know is I have ALWAYS been impressed with anything made for big rigs. I have NEVER seen, heard of or read anything bad about that oil, or from those who have used Lucas Lube , causeing failures or any other bad stuff.

How much faith do you really have in a company that designs in failure, instead of using quality parts in important places ??? If we did, we would not be replacing our front ends & suspension with quality aftermarket stuff. They benefit from failure & designed failure, & also is why they make them so hard to work on. It's all about $$$$$$$$. By voiding your warrenty, they save $$$$. By parts failing every 20,000miles, they make $$$$$$.
I know of 1 site in particular who hates Lucas Lube products. I have tried to duplicate his tests & checked for oil foaming, & found none. Just sayin.. everyone that I know of that has used either Rotella 5w40 or Lucas Lube products has had great results.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have read that "diesel" oil(5w40 or 15w40) has more anti friction compounds and more cleaning agents in it than any gas engine weight motor oil. An article in Motor Trend once: They asked a man that has been in the petrolium business for 26 years, what oil would he use if he could only use 1. He said, thats easy, because I do only use 1, 5w40 full syn diesel oil, in all my vehicles, including my boat. He said it has more anti-friction compounds & more cleaning agents in it. Makes sense to me, since big-rig truck engines are so expensive & the compression ratios are so much higher & they work so much harder, seems like it would last longer in a gas engine, or at least give a little safety factor when beatin on it or workin it hard. JMO, NOT gospel. I also use Lucas Lube stuff. It is top notch IMO. Others say it is snake oil. All I know is I have ALWAYS been impressed with anything made for big rigs. I have NEVER seen, heard of or read anything bad about that oil, or from those who have used Lucas Lube , causeing failures or any other bad stuff.

How much faith do you really have in a company that designs in failure, instead of using quality parts in important places ??? If we did, we would not be replacing our front ends & suspension with quality aftermarket stuff. They benefit from failure & designed failure, & also is why they make them so hard to work on. It's all about $$$$$$$$. By voiding your warrenty, they save $$$$. By parts failing every 20,000miles, they make $$$$$$.
I know of 1 site in particular who hates Lucas Lube products. I have tried to duplicate his tests & checked for oil foaming, & found none. Just sayin.. everyone that I know of that has used either Rotella 5w40 or Lucas Lube products has had great results.
Thanks for the opinions. Well sounds good to me I'm going to give this oil a try once I hit 35K miles :rck: If I have a chronic engine failure I will be sure to let my fellow PW owners here know first. And IF by some unknown reason this engine does fail, the truck is getting a Cummins 5.9L swap :D
 

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Also,on some of the diesel forums, there is one guy who has a fleet of 12 diesel pickups/flatbeds. He has the oil anylized & did his own "tests" but used the results from the oil anylisis. He said the results show that the w-mart brand full synthetic diesel oil tests as well as any others. ??????? You can spend weeks & weeks reading about this stuff.
 

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Going from detergent to non detergent is fine; however if you go from non detergent to detergent (depending on mileage and use) you may cause issues in the engine by loosening deposits that may have collected in the engine. If these deposits have abrasives and/or are sludge, they could pose a threat to the flow of the oil and/or cause premature wear. If you decide to do this, the first oil change may need to be done well before it is due as you are essentialy "washing" the engine and may have debris floating in the oil that were loosened from the block. Due to this you run the risk of damaging the oil pump (through premature wear), droping oil pressure. This is disguised because you just increased the thickness of oil your using and may not know of any possible short term damage that may be occuring. If you know that the engine is clean or new then this may not apply. I have seen engine failures from people who decided to start using detergent oils in as little as 6,000 miles from the first changeover or were the oil pressure had dropped below 5 psi even at higher rpms. Granted tottal engine failure was in engines that had more than 90,000 miles. This is just my experience from the cars we use to get in the salvage yards and the reasons for the engine wear that I've seen. I was able to save some engines becuse people came in to have an oil pump replaced before things got worse. However the damage was done. Some cases I saw "chips" of oil or flakes in the pickup screen. Remember the oil pump sees the dirty oil before the filter. What about the stuff that can pass the pickup screen? All I can say is use extreme caution when it comes to oil in more modern engines as the tollorences are tighter and there is less room for error. Is this one of the reasons for thinner oil? Just my "2." Did I miss anything?
 

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我愛貓
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Your right, it does still have zinc in it. Which was taken out to save the life of your emissions components and for gas mileage. Like I said if I had a flat tappet cam I would be looking for nice thick oil so it doesn't rub holes through itself but nobody uses them anymore. Pit slave is absolutely right the tolerances on motors now are much tighter then they were, they say 5w-20 for a reason. I don't remember all of the article or much of the specifics but when they first changed the oil they tested it all and interviewed people from the companies that would talk to them. Rotella and Amsoil were at the top of the list and I think were the only ones who refused to change the formula. One is for diesel trucks and the other you have to buy in a dark alley at midnight. That's no coincidence and comparing a diesel to a gas engine and expecting the same results isn't very realistic their totally different designs. Dodge has guaranteed my engine forever, with 5w20 in it do you think that says something? 100,000 miles is a long time and Cummings will guarantees theirs for that long, but not dodge and that's still shorter then forever.

You never did answer my question as to why you wanted to switch in the first place. Do you feel you need more protection or are you trying to save money.
 

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IMHO-just stick to the 5w20 oil. I currently have been using most brands that are on sale but realized Penzoil synthetic oil always gets dark sooner cause it's got detergents. I have been using Mobil 1 syn as of recently. I have 112K on my Hemi using 5w20 oil, and going strong.
 

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I don't know if its because of price because walmart sells Mobile 1, Pennzoil, castrol, all synthetic and all in 5 quart containers from about $20-$24.
 

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I use Rotella in my Hemi and Last time I got the oil checked everything spec'd low. I've been using it for the last 20,000 miles with a K&N filter and the oil comes out decently clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
You never did answer my question as to why you wanted to switch in the first place. Do you feel you need more protection or are you trying to save money.
I just like Rotella T and feel it is a superior oil to Mobil 1 and other similar synthetics. To each his own I guess...
 

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我愛貓
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Well go for it then, but keep using it. Mobil1 is the standard that all others are compared to and what allot of cars come with, shell doesn't even recommend it. you've already made up your mind though, they make a 5w30 I think and at least that would be the recommended viscosity
 

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i use royol purple 5w20 with kn gold filter started at 25,000 now at 97,000 i change every 5,000 miles my 06 pw.
 

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Thickerer motor oil?

5w-40, eeesh I see bearings floating! I run 5w-20 Mobile1 full syn. change every 5k... I did run 5w-30. Probably just fine, but going that much... doesn't seem to good. 5w-30 probably gave me additional 5 psi (eyeball calibrated guess) so can't think that going above that would be good. :gr_patrio:rck:
 

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