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It's time to change the primary (starting) battery in my 2005 PW, and I'm going with a DieHard Platinum PM-1 Group 31 Marine. It is an Odyssey PC 2150 ST-M, rebadged as a DieHard, but with a significantly lower price. Today at my local Sears, this battery is $239.99 less 10% for their "friends and family" sale (ends tonight), so about $216 plus tax. The going price for this same battery with an Odysseey label is about $337. This is absolutely the biggest battery that I think I can cram into the battery box, and it looks like I will have to modify the box to take the 13" length. May also have to fab some cable extensions to reach the top terminals, and fab a hold-down arrangement for this beast. TwinStick's earlier post made it sound like the PM-1 fit right into the factory battery box, but the battery specs out at 13" long and my battery box is just under 12-3/4". My plan is to trim the reinforcing ribs on the inside of the box and maybe grind the ribs on the battery case to get a snug friction fit, then reinforce the battery box from the outside with aluminum channel. If I'm feeling energetic, I might also upgrade the second battery from an Optima Red to an Odyssey 1500 (or maybe the DieHard equivalent). Getting the second battery in and out is a real pain because I have to put the truck on jack stands and then use a floor jack to lower the old battery and then raise the new one into position before I replace the frame bolts. I'm open to suggestions on this whole process.

Not too worried about the marine deep cycle/discharge/recharge problem because my Optima/Odyssey dealer told me the Odysseys are all deep cycle but don't care if they are recharged in small increments. We'll see about that.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I do have the same battery & it did fit in stock location. It was VERY tight, not even room for a piece of paper on the ends. Stock hold down will NOT work. Cables WILL work stock, just have to cut/remove the plastic tie downs on cables to give you more reach. I used 2 ratchet straps as hold downs-rated at 900lbs each. I liked the straps so well that I still use 1 in addition to the stock hold downs on stock battery. I ended up putting the stock one back under the hood & mounted the P1-Gp 31 Marine in the bed toolbox.
 

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TwinStick, thanks. I picked up the battery last night and am now fooling with installation ideas. Will probably fab a steel strap hold-down that uses the factory hole on the inboard side of the battery box and then bolts through the hood opening lip, just forward of the hood strut mount. I think I might even be able to mount this battery on its side so that there is less strain on the cables and clamps. That will also lower the center of gravity for road racing against F-150 Lightnings (only half kidding).

I spoke this morning with both the Odyssey factory rep and the largest West Coast Odyssey distributor (West Coast Batteries) and both confirmed that the Sears Platinum IS identical to the Odyssey 2150, except for case color and label. Sears only carries the 2150 as a "marine" battery to simplify inventory, but the various versions of the 2150 are all identical internally. Both also confirmed that there is NO detriment to using the Odyssey/Platinum as a starting/lighting/ignition (SLI) battery. This will not shorten the battery life. The 2150 is designed for 400 deep discharge cycles to 20% capacity and 300 cycles to full discharge without hurting the battery. The factory rep mentioned that all of the big rigs on Ice Road Truckers last season were equipped with the Sears Platinum version of the 2150 (Craftsman Tools sponsors the show). He told me that EnerSys has a federal contract to replace all of the lead-acid wet cells in the U.S. nuclear submarine fleet, using the same technology that is in the Odyssey auto/marine batteries. The Odyssey factory rep also told me that EnerSys originally developed the Optima technology, then sold it to Johnson Controls and started the Odyssey line. He claims that size-for-size (Group 34/78 for example) the Odyssey puts out more power than a comparable Optima. That's because the Odyssey has more lead in it, and that's why the Odysseys are so darn heavy for their size. Makes sense to me. Looks like this is the best possible battery for the PW, using current technology. Will post another report after the installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Your welcome. I think you will really like it. When I plug mine in & use the winch, it even sounds different. With just the stock batt, it takes a few seconds to get up to speed & as load gets heavier you can hear it straining. NOT AT ALL when I plug in second batt, sounds full power from start to finish. Post up some pics if you take any.
 

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So it sounds like that is deffinitly the brand to go with but how does the next size down compare? I assume that would fit as the factory intended but is it a big loss of performance?
 

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There are two sizes "down" from the 2150 that will work. Odyssey/Sears have a Group 65 that is a direct replacement, and they have the 1700/1750 series that have more capacity than the Grp 65 and less capacity than the 2150. Both the Grp 65 and the 1700/1750 are about the same size as the 2150 (LxW), but the 2150 is a lot taller (9.5" including the posts). My thought is that if I'm going to change out the battery, I might as well stuff in the biggest battery that will fit. Wouldn't do that in a Honda Civic, but makes sense in the PW.

Started changing out my second battery (Optima Red) in favor of an Odyssey 1500 DT (Sears version). Will post some pics of the custom battery box and mounting location for those who want a second battery under the cab. Also did a test fit of the 2150 in the factory box and it almost fits on its side, but I need to find another 1/4" of space to make me completely comfortable with that mount. Can't find any stock hold downs that will work for the 2150 (no groove on the bottom for the wedge mount), and the hold downs for the 1700 series are not long enough, so will still have to fab something. Should not be too difficult once I get on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
FYI- the gp 65 direct replacement battery was rated LESS than our stock battery. Stock is 750 CCA & 150min res capacity. Replacement 65 platinum was 850 CCA but only 135 min res cap.. The reserve capacity is the important part for winching & other high loads. (for those that did'nt know already).
 

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That's part of why I'm going with the 2150: 205 minutes reserve capacity.

For any given battery's physical size, there is a trade off between CCA and reserve capacity, but I won't even pretend to fully understand the electrochemical reasons why. The 2150 achieves high levels of both CCA and reserve capacity by being a really big (and heavy) battery. There is no free lunch.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
True. I was thinking of putting a GP 65 platinum when the stock battery goes, now that I have the 2150 for back-up.
 

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My stock battery is still fine, but I had to put a fresh battery in my wife's car, and I already had all the tools out, and...
 

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Discussion Starter #51
and... thats how it all gets started !!! LMAO
 

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..............put the tools down and walk away...............:D
 

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..............put the tools down and walk away...............
I did. Can't get the factory cables (with my accessory connections) to reach the top posts on the 2150 in the factory box. Can't fit the 2150 into the factory box on its side because there is too much stuff in the way (accessory circuit panel and fuses on the firewall). I need to move some things to get the battery mounted on its side, because that's easier than extending the cables. That sucker is heavy. Gonna have a beer and think about it.
 

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I did. Can't get the factory cables (with my accessory connections) to reach the top posts on the 2150 in the factory box. Can't fit the 2150 into the factory box on its side because there is too much stuff in the way (accessory circuit panel and fuses on the firewall). I need to move some things to get the battery mounted on its side, because that's easier than extending the cables. That sucker is heavy. Gonna have a beer and think about it.
Good idea! Wish I could. I'm at work. :bawl:
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Bed mounted toolbox DDad. It's like a PowerWagon toy/goodie box, LOL. Thats why I ended up putting ours in there. Easy disconnect too, if you ever want to remove the toolbox. Also has room for an Inverter, & a Warn 12v HD air compressor. LOL... thats how it all gets started. Should have seen the look on my wifes face when I told her," Honey, I need this $700 toolbox to put my $550 dual battery project inside it" LMAO
 

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Already have a DeeZee tool box and an Ainley Kennels 6-foot diamond plate and stainless drawer in the bed. Tool box is full with my get-back kit, including a full size shovel, hoe (for dragging sand/mud/snow out from under the truck), pickaxe, sledgehammer, tire patch kit, inflator cans, a ViAir 400P compressor with extra hoses and deflators, several tow straps, 100' of synthetic winch cable, winch kit, fairly full set of metric and SAE tools, jacket, gloves, food/water, a few spare parts, tow-truck size jumper cables, normal jumpers, bow saw, anvil clippers, bolt cutters, ARB X-Jack, accessories for the Hi-Lift Extreme, lights, ropes, first aid kit, tarps, and more that I don't remember. The Ainley drawer is for hunting stuff. No place to put a battery back there. If I ever get around to on-board air, the compressor and tank will have to go under the cab on the driver's side, because the passenger side has my second battery. Will post pics of the battery mount later.

IF I could get the 2150 to mount upright in the factory box, I could get a small tool/parts box to slide in alongside it. Box would act as a spacer to prevent lateral movement, and would be a good place to keep spare fuses. Why didn't the Dodge Boys just do this for us?
 

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Aux Battery Installation Under Cab

I just changed out my auxiliary battery, mounted under the cab on the passenger side. Switched from an Optima Red to an Odyssey 1500DT (branded for Sears). The Optima was actually a slightly better fit, but the Odyssey is a better battery, so... The basic box came from Summit Racing, then I welded a piece of 3x3 angle iron under the bottom edge to support the weight of the battery; welded another piece of 3x3 angle to the top of the box to carry the weight on the top of the frame rail (so that the mounting bolts are not in shear); welded gussets to stiffen the whole thing in case it catches a rock or tree stump; welded a piece of small angle to the bottom outside edge and a couple of returns to protect the bottom corners of the battery. It bolts to the frame rail with four 1/2" grade 8 bolts through the frame with backing plates to distribute the load (no crush sleeves in the frame). In the pics you will see a small piece of steel welded to the inside face of the angle iron; this is to accommodate the irregularity in the face of the frame rail. Because of the variation in the shape of the rail, I also used four 3/4" grade 8 washers (needed 3/4" I.D. to get the right thickness) between the box and the frame; this allows the box to mount absolutely flat against to fat part of the frame and not distort when you tighten it down. Positive cable is 1/0 welding cable inside a kevlar sleeve (mil surp) routed to the engine compartment through existing holes in the frame rails. Negative is grounded to the frame using an existing threaded hole for the skid plate mounts. Whole assembly mounts right between the skid plate hangers, and gets lifted into place with a floor jack after the battery is mounted into the box. That part is a bitch, so if you do this, use use a good battery because you don't want to change it very often. The whole assembly is above the bottom of the frame rails and about three inches higher than the skid plates, so you'd have to be in some really goofy terrain to damage the battery. Wiring goes throught a Painless Performance 250 amp waterproof isolator/solenoid mounted on the left/front core support, with the toggle switch and indicator lights on the lower left side of the dash (under the headlight switch). The fit is tight, and this box will not accommodate an Odyssey 1700/1750, but if I were doing this again I would try to use or build a box that would take a 1700/1750. If I'm doing this correctly, pics should be below. The last pic is the Toyo Tires booth at SEMA a few years ago; I just like that pic.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
I like that last pic too !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Nice job.:tup:
 

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WOOOOO........I like that last pic. :D This thread just fell apart! LOL
 

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Are you using a battery isolator, relay, switch or just a direct connection/piggybacked on the OE battery. I know from personal experience that locating a battery away from the exhaust and under hood heat makes the battery last quite a bit longer. But longer cables require 00 welding cable for efficient transfer of battery power to the starter and winch. Good work on that mount too!

I wish they would have done a hydraulic winch with the power steering pump upgraded to handle it.

KP
 
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