Ron Francis wiring?
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Yes, I'm currently putting one in my 77 D200. Seems just fine. Quality stuff. I've had mixed results with the tech dept though. They don't know Mopar very well... pretty good on electrical principles. It's been fun so far. I've installed the fuse block, ignition wiring and now I'm ready to start the gauge wiring.
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bherder and Ram Man are both correct....It's expensive, but the material is very high quality. Makes you feel safe. Instructions are clear and their paper catalogue is chock full of tips and advice that is indispensable. I've learned a ton about 12V systems from this project. Take the plunge if you have the coin.
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interesting... I've been contemplating doing some sort of modern fuse block conversion in my truck...
Been thinking about just bypassing the firewall bulkhead, and then putting a modern fuse block in place of the old style.
painless has some decent kits, but nothing really that specific for our trucks... I do like this kit from Ron Francis though. Maybe next winter...
Been thinking about just bypassing the firewall bulkhead, and then putting a modern fuse block in place of the old style.
painless has some decent kits, but nothing really that specific for our trucks... I do like this kit from Ron Francis though. Maybe next winter...
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That's the beauty of the R.F. kit......you get to get rid of that crappy-a*s firewall bulkhead connector, with all its inherent problems.
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yea, i was planning on just replacing the wiring in that section to eliminate it... but, now im thinking i would be better off just replacing all the wire instead of soldering each wire together...
how does the ron francis fuse block mount into the stock fuseblock location? or rather, where are you locating this fuse block at in the truck?
how does the ron francis fuse block mount into the stock fuseblock location? or rather, where are you locating this fuse block at in the truck?
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You can mount it ANYWHERE you want. I put it over the hole left by the old bulkhead connector. Use sheet metal screws to fasten it. It's a fabulous design. I'm no expert but this fuse block is really cool(Read: user friendly). If I can wire this up, anyone can!
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So it does not fit into the location where the stock fuse box is at?
That's where I'd really like to mount the one I have...
And what are you doing with the hole in the dash now?
Actually, there's really nothing wrong with the bulkhead connectors, as long as:
A: You bypass/eliminate the ammeter connection (Ammeter all together for the most part)
B: Maintain your electrical system, like you'd do most anything else.
It never ceases to amaze me that some guys would never consider driving a rig ONE mile past the 'due' oil/filter change schedule, yet an electrical system can be ignored for 30 years, and then they wonder why they have problems.
This is not a jab at your statement dodgemahal, but this is pointed at the same guys who NEVER:
Lube the front end/drive train
Change tranny fluid/filter
Change axle oil
Change coolant
etc etc etc ... You know what I mean....
Except for the PISS POOR decision to use an amp gauge with full power running through the bulkhead-gauge (I'm only assuming that the Dodge Boys only expected you to keep this rig for XX amount of years and then buy a new one) the rest of the connections ... Properly maintained ... Should last for many years, if not several decades+ ....
I used the American Autowire Highway 22 harness in my 34 Ford coupe. I saw it at a car show a few years back and was really impressed with it. If you want to add any accessories into your project the 22 circuit harness is great. You can get the 22 circuit for around the same price as the 16 circuit Ron Francis. The quality of the American Autowire harness is fantastic.
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To 75 Power Wagon: I don't know if the Ron Francis fuse panel would fit in the stock location, I never checked that out. I knew in advance I would use the panel to cover the hole in the firewall created by the now vacated firewall connector. It just seemed convenient and logical(this also keeps wires short). As I said though, you could put it anywhere you want.
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Bherder,
I can't agree with you more in your comments, they are great points. The big problem with firewall connectors is that "PETA"(People for the Ethical Treatment of Amperage) is always protesting them. I know, really lame joke! Electrons pile up at those firewall brass connector terminals and create heat. Brass can carry only carry 12-16% of the amperage as similar sized copper. Couple that with 30 to 40 years of corrosion and you get what I see quite often--melted plastic firewall connectors.
I think that the plastic housing holding up 20 to 30 wires all those years can't be good thing either. They must be very tired.
I can't agree with you more in your comments, they are great points. The big problem with firewall connectors is that "PETA"(People for the Ethical Treatment of Amperage) is always protesting them. I know, really lame joke! Electrons pile up at those firewall brass connector terminals and create heat. Brass can carry only carry 12-16% of the amperage as similar sized copper. Couple that with 30 to 40 years of corrosion and you get what I see quite often--melted plastic firewall connectors.
I think that the plastic housing holding up 20 to 30 wires all those years can't be good thing either. They must be very tired.
I've done a lot of upgrading to my wiring, but I don't want to eliminate the ability to disconnect bundles at the firewall, so there are limitations in what can be done.
Once the plating is removed from the stock electrical contacts, they corrode quickly, so cleaning becomes a regular task that has a varying degree of success. Ultimately, I would like to replace the connectors with a modern design. Has anyone experimented with replacement connectors from late model cars, or do you know a catalog source where all the dimensions are given for new connectors?
Once the plating is removed from the stock electrical contacts, they corrode quickly, so cleaning becomes a regular task that has a varying degree of success. Ultimately, I would like to replace the connectors with a modern design. Has anyone experimented with replacement connectors from late model cars, or do you know a catalog source where all the dimensions are given for new connectors?
I've never done it on a Dodge but I put a complete wiring harness out of a late model Malibu in an old 1946 International truck I had. I just cut the hole in the firewall a little bigger to accept the GM fuse block and started snaking the wires through the truck. Worked like a charm! The reason I chose GM is because I had a GM engine and transmission in it, as well as steering column, so everything plugged in perfectly.
Bherder,
I can't agree with you more in your comments, they are great points. The big problem with firewall connectors is that "PETA"(People for the Ethical Treatment of Amperage) is always protesting them. I know, really lame joke!
Yup ... hee hee
Well, like I say, once you've eliminated that gawd-awful 'everything-going-through-the-bulk-head-to-the-amp-gauge' mess, you've won 1/2 the battle.
I have no idea WHY The Dodge Boys kept using this horribly engineered and out-dated cluster-f**k, but they did. Stubbornness I guess. Or maybe, they had too much $$ invested in gauges/harnesses already .. who knows?
Electrons pile up at those firewall brass connector terminals and create heat. Brass can carry only carry 12-16% of the amperage as similar sized copper. Couple that with 30 to 40 years of corrosion and you get what I see quite often--melted plastic firewall connectors.
Brass, is not all that bad (I've seen much worse) ... After all, what is brass? Copper and nickel. My guess is that brass was used because of it's inherent strength (Copper is, a pretty soft metal, comparatively speaking) ...
It's all a matter of compromise in the long run I guess.
http://www.keytometals.com/Article79.htm
I think the key is, (If keeping the factory connections) is to 'relay' the high-amp circuits. Headlights.. Blower motor ... wiper motor .... AC if so equipped (Of course, doing away with the amp gauge) ... After you're using factory circuits to do nothing more than operate a relay(s) ... An amp or less... the rest of the battle is won. The rest of the stuff (Light bulbs, gauges, etc mainly) should be easily handled by what The Dodge Boys gave you...
And I agree with GHS ... I like being able to disconnect stuff between the cab and the engine compartment. No particular reason, I just like that 'option' to be there
I think that the plastic housing holding up 20 to 30 wires all those years can't be good thing either. They must be very tired.
Well, on the other hand, the plastic is nothing more than a 'housing' for the connectors. Yeah, I've seen my share of melted ones (99% of the time because of Infamous Amp Wire, OR because some knuckle-head who hadn't a CLUE as to what they were doing, heated/melted another circuit.)
Actually I have absolutley nothing against making things 'better' ... (I think I've written enough electrical upgrade posts to prove that .. ) ... I just don't think that the factory connectors ... with proper care and mods .. Are at all a 'bad' thing... I DO agree with you that anytime you can eliminate any sort of 'plug-in' type of connection, is always going to be a stronger electrical connection through whatever circuit and a 'good' thing ....
I dunno... Maybe I just can't, in my own mind, justify spending $500 for a wiring harness. Either that, or I'm in THE WRONG business!
I can't agree with you more in your comments, they are great points. The big problem with firewall connectors is that "PETA"(People for the Ethical Treatment of Amperage) is always protesting them. I know, really lame joke!
Yup ... hee hee
Well, like I say, once you've eliminated that gawd-awful 'everything-going-through-the-bulk-head-to-the-amp-gauge' mess, you've won 1/2 the battle.
I have no idea WHY The Dodge Boys kept using this horribly engineered and out-dated cluster-f**k, but they did. Stubbornness I guess. Or maybe, they had too much $$ invested in gauges/harnesses already .. who knows?
Electrons pile up at those firewall brass connector terminals and create heat. Brass can carry only carry 12-16% of the amperage as similar sized copper. Couple that with 30 to 40 years of corrosion and you get what I see quite often--melted plastic firewall connectors.
Brass, is not all that bad (I've seen much worse) ... After all, what is brass? Copper and nickel. My guess is that brass was used because of it's inherent strength (Copper is, a pretty soft metal, comparatively speaking) ...
It's all a matter of compromise in the long run I guess.
http://www.keytometals.com/Article79.htm
I think the key is, (If keeping the factory connections) is to 'relay' the high-amp circuits. Headlights.. Blower motor ... wiper motor .... AC if so equipped (Of course, doing away with the amp gauge) ... After you're using factory circuits to do nothing more than operate a relay(s) ... An amp or less... the rest of the battle is won. The rest of the stuff (Light bulbs, gauges, etc mainly) should be easily handled by what The Dodge Boys gave you...
And I agree with GHS ... I like being able to disconnect stuff between the cab and the engine compartment. No particular reason, I just like that 'option' to be there
I think that the plastic housing holding up 20 to 30 wires all those years can't be good thing either. They must be very tired.
Well, on the other hand, the plastic is nothing more than a 'housing' for the connectors. Yeah, I've seen my share of melted ones (99% of the time because of Infamous Amp Wire, OR because some knuckle-head who hadn't a CLUE as to what they were doing, heated/melted another circuit.)
Actually I have absolutley nothing against making things 'better' ... (I think I've written enough electrical upgrade posts to prove that ..
) ... I just don't think that the factory connectors ... with proper care and mods .. Are at all a 'bad' thing... I DO agree with you that anytime you can eliminate any sort of 'plug-in' type of connection, is always going to be a stronger electrical connection through whatever circuit and a 'good' thing ....I dunno... Maybe I just can't, in my own mind, justify spending $500 for a wiring harness. Either that, or I'm in THE WRONG business!
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