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Dark Side Master
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Discussion Starter #1
So, from what I can tell with the 5.9l you can either do the 1.7 RRs or a nice cam, but not both am I correct?

What would be the most benefiting component to add, the cam or the RRs?
 

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Ive never heard this, im curious too now.
 

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well cam is more work and harder on the pcm to relearn, Roller rockers are way easier to do and still feel nice gains
 

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Just Call Me Oz
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I replied in the other thread but here is acopy and paste:

Most beneficial will be the cam if you put in the correct one.

You can put both in that is what I did, just limits the cam choice to the amount of lift max .480 lift with 1.7 rockers.

The reason why people put in the 1.7 is it is the least labour intesive. Remove valve cover and replace rockers or cam replacement means pulling the timing cover, intake, valve covers rockers..........and on and on. that is why people go for the 1.7 for a stock engine.

If you are planning on going much further then skip the 1.7 and go straight towards the cam. Along with that you will need new timing chain, fix the valley pan, most likely replace heads cause they are cracked....and on and on.
 

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Dark Side Master
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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I just replaced my heads with the HPHD-MAG1 Iron Ram heads from Hughes, not that long ago. Also did the 1/4" plate aluminum plenum repair. So, to go in and tear that all down to install a cam might be a little more than I want to do.

RRs are more expensive than a cam (from what I can tell)...I guess you have to really look at it based on how much your time is worth. Also, for no more than I do with the truck (every day driving + putting her in a mud hole here and there and taking her through snow in fields while hunting) I think a cam might be overkill.

What do you guys think?
 

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Just Call Me Oz
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If you did the work yourself then a cam is no more than heads all you needed to do was remove the timechain cover water pump while you are there replace the stretched timeing chain. Cam change is easy pull out the old one put in the new one. You should have done it before putting those head on. You will get more from a cam plus that nice cammed sound that goes with it.
 

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Just Call Me Oz
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Just Call Me Oz
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RRs are more expensive than a cam (from what I can tell)...I guess you have to really look at it based on how much your time is worth. Also, for no more than I do with the truck (every day driving + putting her in a mud hole here and there and taking her through snow in fields while hunting) I think a cam might be overkill.

What do you guys think?
To me they look about the same price, SUmmit shows the HS RR 1.7 for $349 & the links to the cams listed above showing $330'ish.

Plus plus going with the 1.7 seems like you get the feel of a larger cam & the fiction reduction of having a roller rocker. I have decide that I am going to keep my truck around & have been looking at doing some mods & I am leaning towards the RR.
 

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Just Call Me Oz
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Plus plus going with the 1.7 seems like you get the feel of a larger cam
Not quite it just makes what's there better. I would say this to that statement if you are happy with your current power level then the RR will make it the same but more even across the board. More like going from old with miles to the way it felt off the show room floor.

There is no replacement for a cam it is the brain of an engine.

In the case of Vader Ram he replaced his heads for a better designed version that flow more that stock. A new cam would be the best bang for his buck. Cause a new cam will take advantage of the new head flow while RR just made up for the shortcomings of the stock cam and heads.

Usually the reason why racers change their rocker ratio is because they need more lift than what the cam can deliver.
 

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Dark Side Master
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Discussion Starter #11
Awesome, thanks! What all is required with a cam swap? Something I can do myself, or better left for a mechanic's shop?
 

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Just Call Me Oz
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I would do it myself, having it done will cost way too much.

Cam, timing chain, timing chain cover gasket, intake gasket, water pump gasket,

Basic instructions:
Empty coolant, remove radiator, remove all accessories from the front of the engine, remove intake, remove harmonic balancer, remove timing chain cover, remove valve covers, remove rockers keep them in order along with the push rods, crank the engine so dots on timing chain line up, remove dustrubutor cap mark location of the rotor, remove timing chain, remove lifters or pull til they stay up keep them in order, remove cam shaft, clean new cam shaft, oil and put lube on lobes while installing cam shaft, reverse order for assembly.

I think in total took me about 12 hours. I took my time cleaned everything, I also replaced my heads and did some painting. Pick up a manual if you are unclear.

I started on a Friday evening tore down to the point where it was time to remove the camshaft.

Saturday morning cleaned up parts like intake and head surfaces timing chain cover. That took a couple hours painted and left to dry. Had lunch removed rockers and cam shaft. With everything still fresh in my mind timed up all my marks and installed the camshaft. Checked double checked triple checked torqued what needed to be torqued like the cam gear and the plate. Pul the new timing chain on and installed the timing chain with silicone in the right places. Finished for the day to let the silicone cure.

Sunday morning installed the rockers and the valve train along with the intake with silicone in the right places. tried to do that early so the silicone had time to cure. Change Oil ! ! ! Got the engine to fire ready, no accessories, no coolant, just the basics. fire up the engine make sure it runs and your timing was not off. After confirming, finish up the installation of the parts...Take for test drive enjoy.
 

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Just Call Me Oz
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Very common 99% of the heads are cracked between valves. You can get some remanded heads of eBay for 300. That is what I did cause I didn't have a grand+ for performance heads.
 

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4 Wheel Power Disc Brakes
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Make sure to have the cam "degreed" (checked for timing vs specs.), if you want more low rpm torque run a few dergrees advanced of specs.
 

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Just Call Me Oz
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So what, will this problems or what.
I will cause pinging, low compression, bad fuel mileage, miss fire, burn up a piston.

It's a crack it will only get worse as the years go by.
 

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so i did a vac check & i'm pullin 21lbs at idle. my compression was all over the place though. the cylinders seem to come up a bit w/ oil. thats bad rings and not heads right?
 

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Just Call Me Oz
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What were the numbers ?
 

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5 cylinders where 150 or better dry. on the frt pass side the 1st 3rd 5th were 120 and came up to 150 w/ oil. hope i was using the tool wrong!
 
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