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Discussion Starter #1
What fuse do i pull to reset the pcm on a 2004 1500 4.7??
 

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do a search for it, there are tons of ways to reset it
 

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Within the fuse box diagram there should be a fuse marked "PCM". This is the one that must be pulled. Sorry I can not help more. Not familiar with the 4.7.
 

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Within the fuse box diagram there should be a fuse marked "PCM". This is the one that must be pulled. Sorry I can not help more. Not familiar with the 4.7.
Well duh lol Thanx im hitting myself in the head for this. :whackit: i'll check it out today.
 

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On a 2006 4.7 mine was 31. I found that is the easiest of all the ways to reset. I took it out the put key in and turned it to on till all noises stopped. I then turned it to start and there was an almost immediate beep and then in about fifteen seconds there was another. Turned the key back to off and put the #31 back in and then started the engine. All cleared and all OK. Hope this helps. You can find the right one by looking in the top of your fuse panel or looking in the manual. Good luck.
 

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Will this mess anything up? Im resetting it only because i was reading the thread on cleaning the TB and it says that you reset it once ur done.
 

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You really should disconnect the negitive battery cable when working on the engine anyway. The PCM will reset while the cable is off.
 

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You really should disconnect the negitive battery cable when working on the engine anyway. The PCM will reset while the cable is off.
Thanks Even Easier :tup::tup:
 

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Here you go ...
==============

The first way:
1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect.
2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The second way:
1) With the key out of the ignition
2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable.
3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it.
4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min
5) Remove key from the ignition.
6) Re-attach the negative battery cable.
7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!!
8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!
11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s)
12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet.
13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time…
14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The third way:
1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent)
2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes)
3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!)
4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so)
5) Turn key off
6) Re-install fuse
7) You're good to go

... and last. This is from a past DT thread:

You can do what is often called a "hard dump".

We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry".

First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.

Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.

Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.

Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)

Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.
=============================================

The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects.

:dtrocks:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here you go ...
==============

The first way:
1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect.
2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The second way:
1) With the key out of the ignition
2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable.
3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it.
4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min
5) Remove key from the ignition.
6) Re-attach the negative battery cable.
7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!!
8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!
11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s)
12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet.
13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time…
14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.

The third way:
1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent)
2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes)
3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!)
4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so)
5) Turn key off
6) Re-install fuse
7) You're good to go

... and last. This is from a past DT thread:

You can do what is often called a "hard dump".

We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry".

:thatfunny:thatfunny:thatfunny:thatfunny

First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.

Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.

Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.

Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)

Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.
=============================================

The hard dump does not effect the (factory) alarm, the only thing I noticed is my radio presets, as this method came from a working Chrysler tech, I doubt if there are any negative effects.

:dtrocks:
Thanks i think the first way is the easiest.
 
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