The one sure way to do it is to remove both battery cables for 15 minutes and then touch the two cables together effectively removing any stored charge in the computer. Then reattach the cables and your done.
Yeah, on the 5.7's it is fuse 23... Idk what it would be on your truck though... It may be the same? If it is, pull the fuse, buckle the seat belt *drivers seat* turn the key till you hear 2 chimes, then reinstall the fuse. That is what i have heard
The earlier posts are correct but the question should have been posted - "why do you need to reset the computer?" There's more than one way to your goal but each have pro's and con's. If you simply want a fast reset because you added a new part(s), you just need to disconnect the battery for a few minutes. If you're trying to clear a CEL or error code(s), you need hand held programmer or the longer disconnect method. If you’re having ECM or PCM problems and you want to make sure just what the problem you having with the truck, you may need to do a "hard dump" for the computer whole system. Here’s a list of the reset methods for the 3Gen Dodge trucks:
The first way:
1) Disconnect the Negative battery cable for two or three minutes then reconnect.
2) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
3) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
4) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.
The second way:
1) With the key out of the ignition
2) Disconnect the Negative battery Cable.
3) Put the key in the ignition and turn it as if you where trying to the START it.
4) Release the key and leave it in the “ON” position and let it sit for 10- 15 min
5) Remove key from the ignition.
6) Re-attach the negative battery cable.
7) DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE when starting the truck for the first TWO times!!!
8) Start truck and let idle till it reaches operating temperature.
9) Turn truck off for 5-10 seconds.
10) RE-START the truck but DO NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE!
11) Let the truck return to normal idle (500-600 RPM’s)
12) Turn truck off, and then start her up and take her for a LIGHT test drive… NO WOT testing yet.
13) After driving around the block letting your computer LEARN the new air flow turn her off one last time…
14) Fire her up and drive her the way you want.
The third way:
1) Pull fuse #19 or #23 or #31 (vehicle year dependent)
2) Close door and buckle seatbelt (technically you don't have to buckle the seatbelt, but it helps to stop all unnecessary chimes)
3) Put key in ignition and turn to "on" and wait until all chimes stop (on...not start!)
4) Turn key to start and hold until you hear 2 chimes (I think it was about 15 seconds or so)
5) Turn key off
6) Re-install fuse
7) You're good to go
... and last. This is from a past DT thread:
You can do what is often called a "hard dump".
We (techs) often do this when we need to totally reset the ECU and either don't have the proper tool close by (too lazy to walk to toolbox and get it) or just are "in a hurry".
First, disconnect positive+ battery cable at the battery and ground it to the chassis. Yes, the POSITIVE CABLE.
Wait a few seconds, 30 won't kill ya.
Now reconnect the positive cable. Careful, no sparks now.
Get in the vehicle, turn ignition key to on (run) position, now depress fully and release the gas pedal 5 times to set the TPS to WOT. (Make sure the floor mats do not keep the pedal from going WFO)
Turn the key to off, wait a min, and you should have cleared everything in the ECU except for the factory programming.