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So whats UR excuse?
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am wondering what type of clutch would be the best for my 98.
I dont like replacing OEM parts back to OEM and I really dont want an Autozone clutch. I want a little more performance without sacraficing my drivability.I need to replace that gasket between the trany and block so while iv'e got it off the clutches may as well get changed.
Has anyone changed theirs or have a good suggestion on what I
should look into?
 

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There is no gasket between the tranny and block. There is a heat shield, but I kept my original even with the last clutch change a few months back - so that's 230,000 miles it's held up, which includes 2 clutch changes, taking the engine out for a rebuild, and seperating the tranny/block to get all the pieces from the tranny end of the clutch cable when it broke... If you really must have something to replace it, Deyeme Racing sells a lighter weight version heat shield on their site.

There's nothing wrong with the Korean-made Autozone clutch, it'll hold whatever power your car is putting out and then some. Grabs like a son-of-a-gun too... It's just way overpriced. For the same price, you can get the OEM PT Cruiser clutch that will handle more than most naturally aspirated 2.0L's could hope to make. Howell Automotive (I think) sells a PT clutch with an aluminum flywheel that will help performance quite a bit. Above that, you are spending money on stickers...

Best of luck!
 

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So whats UR excuse?
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I hear that about buying the name,I have an oil leak near the tranny and block a main bearing seal or something thats the gasket or SEAL I was refering to. I could go to Howell to get the pt clutches and fly wheel when I go to get the header and windsheild!
 

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The rear main seal? You have to take off the whole clutch assembly to get to it. Not a very difficult job - there's a good how-to around somewhere... just be sure to not scratch up the sealing surface, and install the seal in the right direction (it's pressed in, not bolted).
 

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So whats UR excuse?
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ya the main seal! Thanks for the help Radar I will definatly be looking into that how to so it goes a litte more smooth. You say they are pressed in seals. I dont need to have it pressed in or can it be pressed in by hand.Since I am in there I just as well do the clutch right! Welp gotta go thanks for the reply!Later
 

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Pressed in by hand. The seal actually says which way is out, but people still mess it up somehow. If you have the modular clutch, you'll have to take off the backing plate and driveplate to get to it. Pops out with a screwdriver (according to the FSM even), just be careful not to scratch up the sealing surfaces.
 

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So whats UR excuse?
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
For sure man. Should I use a sanding block with some super fine sand paper to were the two bolt together? Im going to remove the battery tray also to make it easier to get at. There is hella room over there without that! LATA!
 

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I've never had any problem leaving th battery tray in, but the bolts are rusted in a this point... I think the FSM said to use 400 grit, but only to deburr if needed. It doesn't take much for a seal to no longer seal...
 

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I put mine on by hand. Just took some patience. A lot of patience. I used a couple jewelers screw drivers to help keep the seal from folding over.
 
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