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Discussion Starter #1
:usaflag:I have been looking at all of the threads and still havent found straight answers to my questions, so here we go
1: what is a t/s lift?
2: can i lift my 2000 dodge durango ALLWHEEL DRIVE?
3: if i cant lift it can i get more wheel travel by trimming(i have 31x10.5x15)?

any help provided would be greatly appreciated!
 

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1. a T/S lift Front torsion bar and Rear shackle lift approx 2in lift
2. Yes, go with a T/S and the a 3 in body i believe
3. you should clear 33's with a T/S lift with little to no trimming

T/S lift how to:
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44757

hope this helps you out a bit. im sure a few of the guys will step in also
 

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I just did the Torsion/Shackle lift on my 01 RT AWD two days ago. It's pretty simple. You buy new shackles (I got the belltech 6400 from summit) and you will also need some shims or washers. I needed four per side, eight total. The shackles just replace the stock ones on the back of your leaf springs. If you have a tow package you will need to take it off in order to get the top shackle bolts out. For the front all you have to do is locate the adjusting bolts on the back of the torsion bars and crank each side eight full turns. This is a little difficult without a good sized wrench. I used a 30" electronic angle torque wrench so it wasn't too bad. As far as the body lift, I'll let you know later today. I'm about half way through right now. Good luck
 

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You can fit 35's with a 2" T/S lift and a 3" Body lift with very minimal trimming... 33x12.50 with NO trimming...
 

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Previously Micash21
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no trimming if you maintain the stock rims. use a rim with any kind of offset and you will haver to trim. Problem with using the stock rim, you lose turning radius. Your tires hit the frame faster.
 

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actually, only part of that is true. I am using a stock rim with 33x12.50 toyo's and at full steer I am still about an inch away from rubbing my frame. And I can get full shock compression without rub. 35" you get some rub at full compression. As far as an aftermarket rim, I don't know for sure on that. But I do know 100% sure on stock 33's and 35's. (and btw, 35's are not just for a street queen! Only went down to a 33 because I got a steal on them).
 

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Previously Micash21
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At full lock stationary maybe. Mine, when moving, rubs the frame. 33x12.50/15 BFG A/T on a set of 15x8 Eagle Alloy rims. They have a -46mm offset. That ultimately means that they stick out farther than stock rims. That also means that the rubber is farther away from the frame. So if all those things being said, and I still rub the frame while wheeling at full lock, you can gurantee yours will with stock rims. You will have rubbing issues with a set of 35" upfront. You wont avoid it due to the way the bumper is designed. 35's BTW, would destroy that C205F front diff you have.
 

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At full lock stationary maybe. Mine, when moving, rubs the frame. 33x12.50/15 BFG A/T on a set of 15x8 Eagle Alloy rims. They have a -46mm offset. That ultimately means that they stick out farther than stock rims. That also means that the rubber is farther away from the frame. So if all those things being said, and I still rub the frame while wheeling at full lock, you can gurantee yours will with stock rims. You will have rubbing issues with a set of 35" upfront. You wont avoid it due to the way the bumper is designed. 35's BTW, would destroy that C205F front diff you have.
you also have to take into consideration the amount of backspacing along with the offset. The reason why I didn't go with those rims is because the backspacing isn't any more than stock. And being a -46mm offset sticks them at almost the same setting as stock. My guess is you didnt change out your torsion key ways. If you didn't, that's where your problem is. Stockers won't give you the 3"s up front. It's also amazing that you say that I have rubbing issues while driving when I have put over 70,000 miles on it and NO sign of rubbing! And my first set was 35's. The 35's rubbed the front fender slightly, but I guess my front diff must just be he only bullet proof one out there?! It just amazes me how much people think they know about the set up of MY vehicle...
 

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Previously Micash21
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well it amazes me how you can sit there and tell someone that they can run 33x12.50s with a 2" T/S lift and and 3" body, when you actually claim to have a 3" T/S lift and body lift. Go back and read your own posts before you decide you want to argue a claim. WITH A 2" T/S LIFT AND 3" PA BODY LIFT, YOU WILL NEED TO TRIM YOUR LOWER CORNERS OF YOUR BUMPER JUST SLIGHTLY AND YOU WILL HAVE MINOR FRAME RUB THAT WILL BE OF NO CONCERN WHEN YOU ARE AT FULL LOCK.

Your right, I may not know the set up of your Durango, but I do know Dodges. Several people on this site can attest to the fact that 33x12.50 will rub on the above stated set up.
 

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It could also be due to the fact that a 98/99 bumper is different than a 2000-2002. Hence the rubbing issue. And frame must be slightly different too because I have no frame rubbing issues either. (just as a side note, before I did the 3" keyways, I still didn't have any rubbing with the 33's. I did have my stock keyways cranked all the way up though).
 

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Previously Micash21
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ok you gotta show me th difference in your bumper and mine. The only major compnents to change through the years were the loss of the 5.2L, the addition of the 4.7L. The steering change in 2000. That may be the only reason you don't have frame rub. But I have red where others, with 2001 or 2002, have had frame rub.

BTW here are a few links for the 1998-2000 front bumper cover
http://www2.partstrain.com/store/index.php?Ntt=Bumper&N=1607+10112+4294965396+11921

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.com/catalog/?Ntt=dodge+durango+front+bumper+cover+10017p

The only difference in the 01-03 bumpers covers, is two cutouts in the bottom of the bumper cover.
 

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The older bumper is two pieces. A metal upper and plastic lower. The new bumper is a single plastic part. I don't know that the newer one sits any different. There is adjustability in the bumper mounts and you can move it out a little.
 

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DeeGladiator
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this whole rubbing thing has me thinking...

do you guys know if a 3.75 backspace with 19mm offset wheels with 33x12.50x15 bf mud terrian km2 will rub?
sitting on 3" BL, 3" reindexed keys, 2" shackles.
my main concern is the backspacing.
i ordered these tires last week and should be getting them by tomorrow.
the 4 wheel shop said they shouldn't rub...but after reading this, i'm not too sure.
by the way...these are the KM2 mudders not the original KM.
anyone have these?
 

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Previously Micash21
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if they are gonna rub, it only going to be when you are full lock while moving. I will make a minor correction to my above post about my tires. They are 3.75 backspacing -19mm offset. So pretty much exactly what you are doing. your side lugs of the tire are wire than mine, so if you do reach full lock, the rub will feel more pronounced. As soon as you put them, turn your wheel to full lock and just drive in a circle. Do this in both directions to see if you rub any. If you do rub, you will then know what it feels like and wont be worried when it happens later.
 

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DeeGladiator
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that's what i kinda thought...thanks!

how about the speedo?
will i need to get it calibrated?
also, is it practical to change the rear gears to 4.10-4.56 with these 33" mudders...
or are the stock gears fine with these tires?

thanks for the advice.
 

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I just put the KM2's on mine with a 2" TS lift and 3" body lift. I only got 285/70 R17's (33x11.50 equivelant). My rims are a -12mm offset but I'm not sure what the backspacing is. Mine don't rub on the frame but they do hit the front bumper just barely under compression and turning and they hit the rear a little bit because I have side steps. Great tire though and with a little trimming should be good to go.
 

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i think the steering has a little to do with it. I know I have the older steering, could be why I rub on the frame a little. I doubt it would effect it too much but 12.50 is wider than 11.50.

The speedo will be off considerably, assuming you arent already running 33's. You can use a hypertech/superchips to program the tire size. if you do, however, do not set it at 33. I found out that if I set the size to 31.5, I'm practically dead on with all those police speed devices you see on the side of the road. So I would try 31.5 or 31.75.

The gearing is gonna come down to personal preference. I like my 3.55's. They are really economical on the highway. It takes me a little more to get going though. They work well off road. The 3.92 will be fine, if thats what you have. 4.10 will get you back close to a stock configuration. Well I say that from a 3.55 perspective. It will also help you out in the acceleration department. However your RPM's will be higher when traveling on the interstate.
 

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DeeGladiator
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thanks for explaing the gear thing. i'll see what i do in that department.
i currently have 31x10.5 bfg mud terrains t/a km...which have been great.
i'm sure i'll see and feel a big difference.

JUST GOT CALLED!!!
my tires are in...i'll have them installed tomorrow afternoon.
i'll let you guys know how those 33" KM2's turn out.
 
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