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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
See alot of talk on here about these spark plugs, i'm preparing to do a tune up and these plugs sound good, i've got a 1998 with a 5.9 engine, even though i've looked around for these plugs to match this engine I can't, can anyone give me any input on whether I should use them or not, maybe I just misunderstood, or had a major brain fart...thanks
 

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they're great. they don't match because they are actually one range colder than stock. if i remember correctly, they match for a mid-90s Acura Integra 1.8L or Acura Legend 3.0L.
 

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What Is So Special About These, Just Curious B/c I Also Need To Replace Mine And I See These Mentioned All Over This Site
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
They say.....

There suppose to run colder, not sure but while in walmart today i got nosey in the automotive section and found them in Platinum the AP3923's so I picked them up for 11 dollars and some change, i'll give it a shot, good luck
 

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One range colder plugs can reduce the possibility of pinging in the 318 and 360 V8s. I can't speak for how well the platinums run (sometimes our trucks are finnicky), but the plain copper plugs run great for me.
 

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I have run several different plugs, and can tell you that if I didn't have my timing advanced, I would probably stick with the OEM copper Champion plug. They seem to run the smoothest in my truck. I currently run the 3923's because of the heat range. Helps prevent pinging when you have your timing advanced. Idle with them is a little rougher then with the OEM plugs though.
 

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Please explain how you have your timing advanced. It's controlled within the PCM and not something we can alter without reprogramming the PCM. 3923s idle better than Champions and NGK 4291s are better still. I wouldn't put Champions in my lawn mower.
 

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Well I actually had ordered a set of these about 4 weeks ago off of Ebay and they just finally come. I will more than likely be replacing the Cap, Rotor, Plug Wires, and plugs this weekend. I also got my Superchips tuner in the mail which I'm going to all put in this weekend. I'll keep you guys updated on what happens.
 

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Buzzbass said:
Please explain how you have your timing advanced. It's controlled within the PCM and not something we can alter without reprogramming the PCM. 3923s idle better than Champions and NGK 4291s are better still. I wouldn't put Champions in my lawn mower.
He has a Mopar Performance PCM in his. That is where the advance is coming from. It is listed in his signature.

I didn't like the idle being worse with the 3923's and I didn't feel any performance gains from them.
 

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What he said. ^^^^^
It's about 4 degrees advance if I remeber correctly.
 

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Cool, didn't see the PCM. I was hoping you'd discovered something, LOL
 

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Buzzbass said:
Cool, didn't see the PCM. I was hoping you'd discovered something, LOL
There actually is a way, it's called the crank sensor mod. Here is a write-up from KRC. It's written as a cure for the death flash, but others have used it to just get a performance gains. I haven't tried it since I already have the PCM, but I have seen others who have tried it, and they were happy with it.:


WANT TO CURE THE “DEATH FLASH?

Do you have a 2000 or newer truck that no PCM is offered for or the dealer pulled 4 degrees of timing out of, with the DRBIII to keep your truck from having detonation or pre-ignition problems, and now the truck is a pig? Sluggish and generally will not spin the tires from a stoplight, even with a 360?

Then advance your timing.

Your timing is set initially by the crankshaft sensor and the distributor has the camshaft sensor in it to determine when the injectors fire relative to the amount of valve opening. So moving the distributor does not affect base timing. But moving the crankshaft sensor relative to it's current position does. The trick is this, and takes about one hour. This will work on any Dodge truck 92- to present except for the 4.7L or the V-10.

Remove the crankshaft sensor on the aft/passenger side of the block. It is held down by (2) 1/2" bolts and pulls out of the tranny bell housing when loose. There is a rubber grommet in the bell housing also, remove it. Now look at the sensor's bracket, notice the 2 bolt holes. Slot each hole 3/8" both ways, still giving the bolts something to hold onto. Then insert the sensor back into the bell housing, making sure you pulled out the rubber grommet. Thread the 2 bolts back in loose, then slide the sensor as far as it can, towards the oil filter, away from the intake. This will advance, moving it towards the intake in the same direction of crank rotation and will retard the base timing; do not do this unless your teenager is driving the truck. It will usually be limited by the bell housing how far you can move it. If you are really brave, grind the bell housing and fab a new adjustable bracket. This will add 3-4 degrees of timing across the whole board of advance tables, and cure the Death Flash problem in your Magnum. That'll be $5 please...just kidding!

COURTESY OF KRC PERFORMANCE
 

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Thanks, I knew about that. I don't dig moding the sensors. I learned the hard way with the TPS mod. Thanks for being on top of it with the info though. I'm going custom flash, probably next year.
 

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I'm going custom flash, probably next year.
That's the right way to do it, as opposed to a piggy back (Hypertech, Superchips, etc.)

Back on topic, I didn't notice any idle variance from the Bosch Plat +4s I was running.
Keep in mind I have an aftermarket coil, this may have something to do with it.
I have seen people post that the Bosch +4 plats run like crap in their vehicles, but in my truck they ran great for 25,000 miles. Swapped the Autolite 3923s in and gave the Bosch +4s to a buddy with the 5.2 Durango...he loves them.
 

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If you have a Hypertech should you not do the Crank Mod?
 

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That just all depends on the truck. I did the crank mod advanced the timing 4 degrees at the timing chain when I changed it and ran the my hypertech on the 93 program and never had any pinging problems. I am now running the mopar performance pcm with 89 gas and all of the above still with no pinging at all. My cousins 98 318 which is stock and very well maintained has to have atleast 89 all the time to keep from pinging. So like I said it all depends on the truck.
 

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Well, I checked on Autolite's website, and they're saying that for my 2001 Ram 3.9L V-6, to use the Autolite 5224. I've been reading a lot of good things from ya'll about the 3923's. Would the 3923's still work in my engine, or should I go with what they're telling me, the 5224? Also, what type conductor? Copper, platinum, double platinum, or iridium? My engine is using a 180 degree thermostat, with the stock clutch/fan removed for an electric fan.
 

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GG-
use the recommended copper plugs, yes they will be the cheapest.

if your tring pre-ignites(pings) you may try one range colder (5223)
 
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