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Discussion Starter #1
Just purchased 05 pw with 80000 miles. Other day the service 4wd kight came on and rr light flashes. It turned off for few days ,and now has been on for a week. I looked around at other posts but was hoping for info on my exact issue. thank you
 

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Don't Follow Me....
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The search is a hit and miss thing, I don't care much for it, but when you hit the right words, it's very informative.

As said before, check your connection underneath the smart bar. There is a big black plugin there and it's where your whole 4WD system works from. It's right underneath the swaybar disconnect. Pull it and make sure it's not corroded and put some dielectric grease on it. You can also check each axle where the locker wires plug into the top of the differentials for the same thing. I ended up have to have my whole smart bar replaced but its quite pricey if it's not covered under warranty.

Another thing they mention is to pull your rear diff cover off and change the fluid, clean the two magnets( watch like battery looking things) and clean the metal shavings off of them. They tend to attract the metal shavings from your diff gears. They are in the 11:00 position when your looking at the rear diff with the cover off.

Hope this helps. :)
 

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Welcome to DT and the elite group of Power Wagon owners!

Mine did the same thing awhile back. It was repaired under warranty so I can't help you with a solution...sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
okay will check connections had my diffs changed recently mechanic said there was no metal at all. Anyone know how much for smart bar
 

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Don't Follow Me....
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Last I heard it was over $2000. Mine was replaced under warranty and I saw the price on my copy from the Dodge stealership for $500. ???

Can't say for sure, call Dodge. The only other thing is, when you change the diff fluid, it would look good. But these magnets for the lockers are 'magnets' for real, and they can get corroded with the tiny metal shavings.........take them out carefully and wipe them clean. Put them back in the way they came out.

And X2 on welcome to the Forum :D
 

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Power Wagon #1605
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He might also want to purchase a Locker Bypass Harness. I just happen to know a guy that has them for sale :)
 

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He might also want to purchase a Locker Bypass Harness. I just happen to know a guy that has them for sale :)
GOOD POINT!! I think I can vouch for how well they work, also. Seeing as how I have one installed.....Got any EXTRAS for him CTD!? :D
 

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pwrwgn723
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You dont need a smart bar, you need to determine whether it comes on after it has rained or seen any type of moisture or whether it is coming on for no apparent reason. This will determine whether you have an electrical issue or mechanical issue. This is just MY OPINION and MY own experience with this problem. If the issue is electrical, then, like crash said you need to check all electrical connectors for the locker and smart bar. remove the connector pins, clean, and apply di-electric grease and re-install. If the issue is mechanical, I would not trust someone at jiffy Lube to tell me that everything is OK. . I would get under the truck, pop the cover and clean the locker mechanism and magnet faces. I have experienced good luck with both of these solutions and my locker light has not come back on in 52,500 miles.

just my 2 cents............ GOOD LUCK.........
 

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Power Wagon #1605
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GOOD POINT!! I think I can vouch for how well they work, also. Seeing as how I have one installed.....Got any EXTRAS for him CTD!? :D
I have several units ready. Some members on the list have not contacted me regarding payment so therefor I am not holding my breath. First one with money gets the units I have ready. I think I have 11 or so ready to mail out.
 

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USMC EOD Tech
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Mine does the same thing, except my light turns off and the system works normal when it rains or when I tow a trailer. I moved from florida to north carolina towing about 5,000lbs for 700 miles and my flashing locker light was off the entire time until I got here took the trailer off and was driving around in the truck a day later and the light started flashing again and hasn't quit since. Its really starting to annoy me. Dealership said it was the "Final control Module" thats bad, not really sure what that is but they quoted me $1200 for it, $1,500 if they do the work to replace it!!
 

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Welcome to DT and the elite group of Power Wagon owners!

Mine did the same thing awhile back. It was repaired under warranty so I can't help you with a solution...sorry.

Mine is doing exactly what yours was during your ordeal except the "serv 4wd" light does NOT come on. Do you remember the dealers name that finally figured your issue out? My only local dealer has never worked on a power wagon before and they are having a hard time.

This Ordeal

I will try to keep this as short as possible and just hit the highlights, but you asked, so here's the story:

I usually do most of the maintainance and basic repairs to my vehicles myself. When we bought our Power Wagon, part of its duties were to tow our fifth wheel. I figured if anything would fail it would be the transmission or the differential (more likely the tranny), so while under warranty, I would let the dealership service the differential and the transmission, so if there were any problems they could not blame it on maintenance.

During the first 15,000 miles, many of those miles were towing the 5'er, including towing on I-70 to the Eisenhower Tunnel at over 11,000' and the rear axle was dirty from off-road, but still looking good.

15,000 miles and into the dealer (the one we purchased the PW at). I tell the service adviser I want synthetic and no friction modifier (I want no mistakes). Pick it up and the parts list has friction modifier. I ask what is this? I am told they always do that - it won't hurt anything. I ask - you always charge extra for something that is not required and the customer specifically said they did not want? Well, they refund the $ for the friction modifier and assure me there will be no problem, they do it all the time.

I leave 2 days afterwards for our next camping trip. The second day I notice the paint is bubbling on my rear differential cover. By the end of the trip all the paint is gone from the cover and the coating is coming off the axle housing it self and the cover is all rusted and looks like a 30 year old truck.

I consider it might have been cleaner they used has destroyed the paint, but I am concerned that for some reason the differential is getting too hot. Back to the dealer - they say normal - I say for 15, 000 mile it has been fine and as soon as you touch it I have this!

Next camping trip (now 4 weeks since diff service) and my "serv 4WD" light is on. Back to dealer and when I pick it up, the light is off. Next trip and now the "serv 4WD" light is on and the "rear lock" light is flashing (selector is in unlock position). Back to the dealer. Pick it up and lights are off, but it is difficult to get the rear axle to lock. Had read posts here that the more you use them, the easier they work and I figure whatever they did put it back in the "new" category, so I gave it a little time, but it got progressively more difficult to lock.

Back to dealer - I'm told "normal" - I say it wasn't that way for the first 15,000 miles or before you touched it. They take it in, I pick it up and it is the same as far as I can tell and continues to get worse until I can not get it to lock.

Back to dealer - I am told what I need to do to get it to lock (because I obviously have no clue in their eyes) - so I say show me! Strangely enough they can not get it to lock either (go figure - excuse me if I vent a little). They take it back - I pick it up - it will lock after driving about a mile!

Had enough with this dealer (this was not the only problem - but that is another story). Off to another dealer - a disaster I won't even go into - but I did not even let them touch my PW. Sometimes conversation is enough to determine incompetence.

I had been happy with the dealer we had taken the Durango to while it was under warranty - so off to them I go. I explain the problem and they assure me it will be fixed. They had it for 6 weeks (they worked with me for scheduling and loaner vehicles), much of that time waiting for parts and when they had it back together, the mechanic said he still was not happy with how long it took to lock and would like to keep it and I said DO IT! Mechanic said it was all messed up inside!

Finally I got it back and now it is great! The rear locker locks almost instantly! At 30,000 miles, I SERVICED the rear differential and used Mobil 1. It has worked perfectly. So now it is time for the 45,000 mile service and I am wary about using anything different.

Sorry for long post, but you asked.

Take care!
 

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05DodgePowerWagon2115
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Mine does the same thing, except my light turns off and the system works normal when it rains or when I tow a trailer. I moved from florida to north carolina towing about 5,000lbs for 700 miles and my flashing locker light was off the entire time until I got here took the trailer off and was driving around in the truck a day later and the light started flashing again and hasn't quit since. Its really starting to annoy me. Dealership said it was the "Final control Module" thats bad, not really sure what that is but they quoted me $1200 for it, $1,500 if they do the work to replace it!!
I actually think this is another variable in the locker lights situation, "distance". Without fail I can be driving around town running errands and the RR locker light and Serv 4WD light will come on. Usually happens a few times a week and ends up going off by itself. Doesn't seem to have anything to do with moisture. I have dielectric greased all electric connections for the smart bar and lockers.

Now here is where distance comes in. The locker lights have been coming on and off for a while now (over 2 years). I have just let it go (every couple months I try a different trouble shooting tip from the forum but nothing has fixed the issue) as it doesn't appear they are affecting anything however I have noticed whenever I take longer drive or trips I don't get the issue. Recently took a trip to Pittsburgh and then Niagara Falls, went through rain, dry conditions and high humidity and no time during the around 1200 mile round trip did the locker lights come on. Same scenario when I go to northern VA and back from Richmond, but w/o fail if I do a bunch of short trips around Richmond it happens sporadically.

Looks like others are seeing the same. Let me know if you have seen differently with your rig.
 

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I confirmed that none of my axles will lock, but the swaybar does disconnect. They have already replaced the module on the smartbar in my case. I think the problem is in the rear axle.
 

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USMC EOD Tech
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Distance is a big thing with mine also, I get on the highway and go for a drive and they turn off. Errands around town and it will flash. My rear will still lock in when the rear locker light is flashing and the serv 4WD light on, and the sway bar will disconnect. It just wont let it lock in the front axle.
 

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05DodgePowerWagon2115
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One other question to ponder. For those who have had their final drive module replaced (smart bar), have you ever had the issue again? I am wondering if the issue isn't due to a manufacturing issue with the final drive module. Just a thought.
 

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Have you guys unplugged the smart bar connector & locker plugs by pumpkins & put some dielectric grease in there ??? I was having an issue one day only, did that & no more issues since.
 

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05DodgePowerWagon2115
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Can't speak for others but I did that a long time ago and regularly check the connections. That is definitely not the issue with my rig. At this point I think it is something in the electronics.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Unplugged smart bar and both diff plugs and greased with electrical grease. No sign of corosion. Light stayed off for about quarter mile. Anymore suggestions greatly appreciated.
 

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One other question to ponder. For those who have had their final drive module replaced (smart bar), have you ever had the issue again? I am wondering if the issue isn't due to a manufacturing issue with the final drive module. Just a thought.

The first replacement the dealer put on was throwing an error code and they ordered a second one. On the lot it look like it fixed it, but once on the highway the malfunctions started again.
 

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I would start checking each wire VERY closely to see if there is a rub through the insulation anywhere, when on the highway, at speed, there may be enough wind to make it contact something, causing a short.
 
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