DodgeTalk Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all. I am trying to get my truck ready for a run out to California from Maryland. This weekend I spent a good 17hrs replacing the plenum, gaskets, t-stat (180*), plugs (3923's), Cap/rotor (napa brass), Wires (Accel 8mm), ebay intake, rad hose and bypass hose. I also did a quick IAT re-location, rad flush and spark plug wire TSB just for kicks.

First off, I have been very deep into engines before this so I was fairly confident about my work. Took so long just because I was taking my time, cleaning things really well and taking a bunch of picks.

I must say, performance wise I really am not feeling any difference. This may be due to a weak battery, death flash or some other reason.. who knows. I will say that the go off of the line is smoother and a bit stronger. But the 3000 rpm range is still very weak I think.

No pinging, runs nice, steady and cool. I still have the stuff to do my de-carb of the engine but I need to pick up some more plugs first.

Ok, so, would you like to see the pitures.... Well, as soon as I can find my f***n dig camera I will throw them up. :D
 

·
Dakota for life!
Joined
·
823 Posts
I'm thinkin the PCM needs to learn the new set up. Give it a tank of gas and see what it feels like then.

 

·
Mmmmmmmmm, beer.
Joined
·
2,485 Posts
Did you do a manual PCM reset?
To do this, my service manual states to disconnect neg battery terminal, turn ignition key to start position for 15-20 seconds, release key and reconnect battery.
It will still take some time to learn (mine seems to be about 200 miles).
 

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Ok, so here are some pictures of my repair. I apologize ahead of time for the quality. I didn't realize it was set on the wrong setting so some of the images are blurred. I tried to take as many pictures as possible but I will only include the pics that think are relevant to the repair.

I used the following posts to assist me in the plenum repair. Like several others I researched it and ended up using several different posts to complete the work:

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31747&highlight=plenum+repair
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50503&highlight=plenum+repair
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25103&highlight=plenum

This is the one I used almost picture by picture. Huge help!
http://dodgetruckworld.tenmagazines...111910-s-got_my_plenum_gasket_replaced_w_pics

As well as the Spark Plug TSB:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/09-05-00.htm

Ok, a couple of things I found important:
- Knee PADS!!!! Kneeling on that bumper SUCKS!! So, kneepads or some kind of cushioning really helps.
- Collect everything ahead of time. This includes the Bypass hose (4" long hose going from Water pump to Intake), hose clamps, Rad hoses, plugs, wires, cap, rotor and anything else you'll need. You can always take stuff back
- When spraying out the intake I used carb cleaner as is mentioned in the posts. I actually used 5 cans and could have used a 6th if I had it. Mine was pretty bad though.
- Don't forget the gaskets for the TB to intake manifold and TB to air intake.

Ok, enough of that. Here are the pics:

- First, second and third are various stages of removal.
- In the fourth image you can see the hard hose coming out of the water pump (between the two loose bolts) going around the driverside valve cover. Some say you need to remove this but I was able to work around it without a problem.
- the Fifth image shows everything pretty much out of the way including the fuel rails that I pushed over to the driverside.
 

Attachments

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
On to the removal....

The first and second below shows the valves and other "stuff". Notice the amount of build up that is just hanging out in the top there. Pretty nasty stuff.

The third image shows the alminum foil and paper towel trick I used compliments of another post. GREAT IDEA!!! it made the cleanup and such so much easier. Piece of advice: a gasket scraper, shop vac and som gasket remover spray really helped out with getting her all cleaned off.
 

Attachments

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Now for the best part, check this intake out.... this engine has 140,000 miles on it.. what do you think yours looks like? I must say, after seeing the condition of the gasket, plenum pan and intake innards I am glad I did this before driving to California.

The condition of the intake manifold is why I used 5 cans of carb cleaner. I have read a couple of places about the torque settings for the plenum bolts being wacked from the factory... well, I can back that up. Some of the bolts were finger tight and some where pretty damn tight.

Again, sorry for the blurriness of the photos... but you get the idea.
 

Attachments

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Now my favorite part, the before and after. This required the carb cleaner, wire brush, wire drill attachment, lots of rags and a ton of elbow grease. A mask would be good right about now... though I was in a ventilated area I still felt pretty "Happy" after the fifth can of carb cleaner :flippy:

Look how pretty that new plenum pan is....

Now, I have read a lot about the need of an in/lb torque wrench at this point.. VERY IMPORTANT!! Get one! I had a mental lapse and only had a ft/lb wrench. I used the good ol' 1/4" socket and experience to do the approximate torque. I would not recommend doing this unless you are comfortable with the consequences!!

Ok, now that is done with... I was pretty happy with the way it turned out. I could have cleaned it externally but hey, the outside cleaning only adds another 30-50hp right? :D

Oh yeah, I used red loctite on the plenum bolts instead of the recommended blue... so, we'll see. If anything goes wrong I will probably just throw an M1 in and do away with it all ;)
 

Attachments

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So, finally assembly...

I cleaned all the surfaces, applied RTV to the head side of the gaskets as well as at the corners of the front and back gasket where they meet the sides. The cleaned intake was then placed oh so gently back in place and bolted down with the new bolts.... again without a torque wrench (DON'T DO THIS!! :D ). Be sure to follow the recommended bolt pattern for both the plenum and the intake. These can be found in the Hughes instructions and the Haynes Manual.

Then came the long process of putting everything back on.. This included the new Accel wires (had to cut and assemble these to match the OEM wires), Autolite 3293's, cap/rotor, Spark Plug Wire TSB, new hoses and a million other things I decided to do. Oh, and the ghetto, piece of junk air intake from eBay. This thing required re-threading, two TB gaskets, doesn't sit straight, bolts in nowhere for support and bascially just sucks... Well worth my $50 :rck:
 

Attachments

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, so my final scattered thoughts on this lengthy, yet oh so fun, process...

- Get an in/lb torque wrench (Did I already say that?)
- Drain the rad all the way. Why not? Makes life easier for ya. (Don't get it in your eye though, IT really burns!)
- Have a good set of deep well sockets, multiple lengths of extensions, a good sharp cutter, lots of carb cleaner, rags and hand soap (or rubber gloves) ....
- An Air compressor and shop vac help a lot in cleanup.
- Band-Aids and a good bit of space between you and small children is also a good idea. Ear Muffs!!
- Lots of pictures, directions, a manual and all the proper parts are also handy.

I think most mechanically inclined people would be ok doing this. Remember, fixing a car isn't rocket science.... Just take your time and get all your parts ahead of time.

Let me know if you have any questions. Since this whole post came about while I was at work I should probably go do something productive now.

Thanks to everyone out there that helped answer my annoying questions.

PS. here are pics of the new Blaupunkt 6.5" and tweets I installed. Gave me an extra 5hp......
 

Attachments

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No, I didn't try the PCM reset. I'll do that tonight when I get home. I did have the Neg terminal off of the battery during the entire install. Thought that might have cleared her out but I'll give it a try. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
240 Posts
Wow!! Great post!! How much did this 'maintenace' work cost you (parts)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
71 Posts
Good Job,
I did mine with the same kit 3 months ago. Really the big thing you notice would be that you still have 5 qts of oil at the next change. Performance wise just a small improvement, I did the same as you took the better part of 2 days to do the job. most of it cleaning, intake, fuel injectors, changed O-rings, new sensors, oil pressure, cooling temp, air temp, cap ,rotor, wire, plugs , Lots and lots of FUN....

Great write up though
 

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Cost? Um.. let me see..

Hughes Plenum Kit: $80.50
Fel-Pro gasket & Torque to yield bolts: $39.00
eBay intake: $50.00
Autolite 3923's: $1.20 x 8 = $9.60
Accel 8mm Wires: $39.99
Napa Cap/Rotor: $10.99/3.99
180* T-Stat: $4.99
Bypass Hose: $8.00
5/8" Heater hose: $1.25 x 3' = $3.75
Upper Rad Hose: $17.39
Misc stuff (RTV, Loctite, Carb Cleaner...): ~$55.00

No more pinging, smoking or lost mileage..........Priceless
(sorry, had to do it)

A grand total of about $325.00.

I think I have read that it cost $400 - $500 for just the plenum repair. So, doing this plus the additional work on your own is definetly beneficial.

I still need to buy another set of plugs (for the de-carb), get the oil changed, pick up a new IAT, change the diffs/tranni fluids and get a drivebelt. So, almost done.
 

·
LivetoRide
Joined
·
2,733 Posts
Nice, good job that was a fun read. I am looking to get the hughes plenum kit soon, I am sick of having a perfectly dry truck yet losing oil between every change...argh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
607 Posts
99Ram1500 said:
No, I didn't try the PCM reset. I'll do that tonight when I get home. I did have the Neg terminal off of the battery during the entire install. Thought that might have cleared her out but I'll give it a try. Thanks
That will have reset it anyway, the battery-off, key-on procedure is just a quick way to ensure that the capacitor or whatever maintains the memory for short interruptions is fully discharged, but the PCM will have forgotten everything after a few minutes disconnected.
looks like you've been suking in oil for some time, unless you do a combustion chamber cleaner, there'll be still lots of carbon deposits in the cylinders, but if it's running sealed properly now, a good long run will clear most of that out, so be patient while waiting for it all to settle down. You'll need to go through all the possible operating conditions for some time (with the engine hot = running in closed loop) before the PCM will fully remap away from the default programming.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
287 Posts
Nice post...but you wont see much gain performance wise..unless you ported/polished the intake manifold. From the repairs you did, you wont see much gain, maybe a little, but not much from before...if you are looking for a good jump in the higher rpm's look into headers, they helped me a lot. Good post.
 

·
Go Hawks!!
Joined
·
58 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the replies.

Honsestly, with the 318 I really wasn't even looking for a performance gain. I do notice a bit stronger start from stop and slightly more oomph accelerating under heavy throttle while at speed. I am attributing this to the plugs (old ones were gapped over .55, 3923's gapped to .40), wires, cap (old one had MAJOR depsoits), IAT relocation and Air Intake.

Mostly I was looking for an increase in gas mileage, a decrease in knocking and less oil consumption. I am happy with the results of all three so far.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top