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Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I just bought a 2001 Durango, 4.7 4X4 on SATURDAY! It ran fine all that day, the next day (Sunday) I drove it for about an hour with no problems then as luck would have it I pulled into my local OReilly's to pick up some washer fluid and as soon as I put the truck in park the check engine light came on and it started running like crap and missing. So I went in got the OBD II scanner and it pulled two codes. "Cylinder 1 Misfire" and "Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 1" ok so I replaced the number 1 injector. Cleared the code and it popped right back on as soon as I started the truck. Cleared it again and it popped on again. SOOOOO I figured bad spark plugs so I went and picked up 8 OEM factory Champion copper spark plugs. Went to pull the number 1 coil pack off (which was a real pain to get out) and the coil pack and Bosch Platinum spark plug that were in it were covered in rust understandable seeing as how the umbrella on the coil pack to keep water out was GONE..... SO I went and then picked up a coil pack for it replaced the spark plug and coil pack. Cleared the code, it came back on, cleared it again and it came back on. It is still misfiring and now is only pulling the "Injector Circuit Malfunction" code. All be it I have not replaced the other 7 spark plugs which I do intend on doing but my problem has been with number 1 cylinder and injector. Luckily the place I bought it from is telling me not to fix it but let their mechanic do it and they will pay for it. But I have yet to get a hold of this guy plus it's about an hours drive to where he is and I have nothing else to drive while he piddles around on my truck and I don't know his work and don't really trust anyone to work on my vehicles except my husband or myself. I've already spent $70 in parts and I'm hoping I'm not going to need a new PCM but the one that is in it looks BRAND NEW! Sticker and everything are spotless! If anybody has ANY IDEA what else I could do please let me know!! I'm lost right now.:bawl::bawl::bawl::bawl:
 

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The new PCM makes it sound like someone was messing with this same problem before. The only thing you haven't mentioned so far is the "injector circuit" itself. The code could be the result of a shorted or open injector wire, so run some tests with a multimeter and have a good look at the wiring harness for abrasion, burns or critter damage. Also check that the connectors are in good shape.

Also, if you still have the old injector, test the resistance of the coil. If it is shorted it could have damaged the PCM (but hopefully not).
 

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V*8:

How many miles on your D?? Remember that the pcm has an 8 year 80k warranty on it.

Also, the 4.7 motor is a bit fickle about what kind of plugs it gets. The OEM copper plugs are a good start to go back in with.

Make sure to do this work with the engine cold, as the aluminum heads are easily damaged if you remove them when hot.

Also, put a little no seize on the threads of each one so they come out easily next time.

Don
 

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I would fiddle around with their mechanic... If they can't fix the truck whiten a reasonable amount of time you have the lemon law on your side.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It has a little over 102,000 on the odometer right now so the only "warranty" I have is to let this random guy fix my truck. But if it gets into needing a new wiring harness or PCM then I'm handing it over to them and let them deal with it I already put a $2500 down payment and am $7000 in debt with it I'm not putting another dime into it. I'm thinking it's the wiring harness because the injector is not getting pulse now even with the new injector. Also it looks as though NONE of the coil packs have that umbrella on them but that would be $200 worth of coil packs to replace them all. Could my problems just be coming up with Number 1 because that's where the firing order starts? But as I said I'm not getting injector pulse so is it possible to just replace the plug on the harness for the injector? All my other injectors are fine KNOCK ON WOOD!! LOL!!
 

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I don't see anything that indicates this has anything to do with the coils. If there's no signal at the #1 injector and your getting that code, it's either the injector wire, one of the connectors or the PCM. Most likely a damaged wire. If it were me, I'd pull the connector at the PCM and the injector and use my multimeter to test the circuit, then I'd take a close look at the wiring harness from injector to PCM and see if there's any obvious damage-- fixing this may be as simple as a piece of electrical tape. If the damage is hidden, a new wire could carefully be run from the PCM to the injector without spending too much time finding the damage in the harness.

If the place you bought it will fix it, just let them fix it unless you feel like taking the time to check it out yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well so far for the last 4 days I have been unable to get in contact with their "mechanic" so it looks like I'm stuck doing it myself. But I'm going to work on it today and I'll repost if I find a solution. Thanks for everybody's help!
 

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OK, just be sure you disconnect the negative battery cable a few minutes before you start pulling connectors from the PCM.
 

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Well so far for the last 4 days I have been unable to get in contact with their "mechanic" so it looks like I'm stuck doing it myself. But I'm going to work on it today and I'll repost if I find a solution. Thanks for everybody's help!
You are doing exactly what they want you to do...... Call the place up and tell them that you have been trying to contact the mechanic, he has not answered nor has he responded to any of your messages. Tell them if they can not get the mechanic to call you back whiten 24 hours you are going to take it to a shop and have it repaired at their cost. Like I said you are doing exactly what they want you to do by putting you off, that is just to pay for it yourself, don't let that crap happen. Tell them to fix the truck or take it back under the lemon law.

YOU KEEP WORKING ON IT THEY CAN SAY YOU CAUSED THE PROBLEM, THEN YOU MAY HAVE TO PAY $$$$$ 1000+ TO FIX IT OUT OF YOUR POCKET.

866-86LEMON
http://autopedia.com/html/LemonLaw/TN_lemonlaw.html
 

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i had the same problem a few years back...
it turned out to be the fuel injector.
remove the fuel injector in cylinder 1 install it in cylinder 3, and install #3 in #1.
now you should get a reading of cylinder 3 as being bad.
that's how i tackled that problem.
bought a new fuel injector...and no problems since.
 

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fairly simple circuit........with key on ALL injectors should have 12 volts at one of the wires at the connector...test for that.......if no 12v at #1........but yes at all the others.....just slpice into the next cylinder....they are all in the same supply circuit...........i'll assume power is there..........next check for ground at the other wire in the connectorthe pcm grounds it when engine is turning....sooooooo......either using the 12v at the connector or 12v from battery.........touch the test light to the ground side and have someone crank the motor.....your light should flicker or flash off and on........no light means either the wire is broken.......which can be checked with mulimeter and backprobing at the pcm.......or the driver in the pcm is bad.....solid light means it's grounded all the time......shorted wire in the harness or again a bad driver...........there is a thing called a noid light...basically a fancy thing you plug in instead of your injector that flashes like your test light would.u could use that instead.....good luck....happy hunting
 

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You could swap coil pack to the #3 to see if the code follows, so you don't have to buy a coil. That will tell you whether the coil is the cuilprit or the wiring.
 

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he's got injectors codes.......not coil codes...........simple circuit...pcm sees problem....now he has to find it....power side or ground side......not that difficult really
 

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I saw in the inital post cylinder misfire, "one of 2 codes" (just adding to the fire).
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hey!! Still workin on it coil packs are being a pain in my *SS and not wanting to come out. I'm going to replace all the plugs then start tracing my wires. I'm thinking it's my ground I had power with my multi meter but no ground. *crosses finger* that I can just losen a few on the chassis and wiggly them to try to get a better connection. I'm currently putting new valve cover gaskets on it where the previous "mechanic" from the car lot broke a bolt off in the head. We had to drill it out & I just got back from the parts store getting another bolt to put in it. I was in the midst of putting the valve cover back on when it started storming and I don't have a garage so I gotta wait til the rain stops. I'll repost when it's done!
 

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I'm thinking it's my ground I had power with my multi meter but no ground. *
If you're checking for ground at the injectors and coils, keep in mind that the PCM cycles the ground on and off to fire the coils and injectors-- in other words, you shouldn't expect to see ground without the engine running.

How did you make out on the coils?
 

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go back to post 11.............exactly how to test the power and ground side of the injector...........if you have questions, let me know.........wiggling wires and checking battery grounds won't do a thing.............the pcm fires the injector by grounding the injector for milliseconds...........only whilr cranking or running..........use a test light or a graphing mulitmeter........or maybe and old analog sweeping meter........mulyimeter will noy do....you have to see on, off, on, off.......dvom/mulyimeter won't refresh that fast
 

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Discussion Starter #19
OK valve cover gasket fixed CHECK! Note: COIL PACKS ARE A B*TCH! CHECK! All spark plugs replaced with factory Champion Copper Plugs CHECK! Still have code "P0201" Started truck, hooked up test light...Have power, NO GROUND on #1 Injector Plug GRRRR! Really hoping I don't have to run a wire from PCM to #1 Injector Plug. What are my options now?? All other injector plugs check out OK with test light & engine running.
 

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I think the next test for you to do is a continuity test of the injector #1 signal wire (ground) between the injector and the PCM. That will tell you if the injector wire is broken somewhere or if the PCM internal injector control circuit has failed. Hopefully it is just the injector wire and you can run a new wire from the PCM to the injector. That would be much better than needing to replace the PCM.
 
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