any body have pics of ones that are correctly placed for refferences for guys about to do diff services? what about ones that are slipping or coming out or that are out and show where they should have been?
I wish you would have posted this like 10 days ago.
Just got through doing a diff service on my LSD.
Guess what...............yep all the retaining clips were coming out there pockets.
I was sooooo pissed, I didn't take any pictures.
Anyhow, whilst in the diff, I removed all the clips.
I fugured that all It would do is that the LSD might not work as it should,which btw, it seems to do OK.
Rather than let the clips work further out and scew my carrier up completely!
It's real easy to tell if your clips are coming out.
Jack up the axel and turn the wheels slowly and count two clip pockets either side of the LSD. In them you should have 4 clips. 2 per side.
If not, check your old oil bro' LOL.
The clips are contructed so they have a half circle appearance main body with a little slot cut into the top which is folded the oposite way in profile to the rest of the clip. I guess this is what retains the clips in it's pocket location. It's the little slot part of the clip, that seems to break and snap off first. These are the real small bits people usually find in the bottom of the diff housing, stuck on the magnet in the old oil.
It looks like this ~ .
The rest of the main body of the clip, works it's way out of it's pocket over time and eventually, if left unchecked, wears away at the carrier.
thats the clips?? damn they look tinny. so spin the wheels and watch for the clips in the clip pockets... got it. im gona change my diff fluid later this afternoon and get some pics.
hey al i kno that they were supposed to have designed a revised clip in 05. i had mine rebuilt at 52,000 miles with these clips and no issues at 87,000 . guess i could wait till i pop the cover off and not jinx myself.
Yep.............that's the dreaded clips.
But from the angle of the picture it's deceiving, they do look small.
However, they are about 1/2" long/tall 1.5cm's.
As for not popping off the cover..........well I would.
Better the devil you know, than not.
I saved my entire axel, by finding that one of my clips had just started to cut slightly into the bearing cap and carrier.
If all people do is drian the fluid without opening the case, they would never know this was happening until BANG!!!!
i goofed on the pics, but ive got several from others trucks ill post, mine were seated perfectly on all 4 and its been about 20,000 since my last change, but even that one i had no clue wat i was looking at so... good for 35,000 so far since it was rebuilt. how do they fall out?? the ends break some how?? then the rest slides? or do the whole clutch packs tilt or wat?
i kno when i blew the rear they said it was my pinion angle but i think it was the clips, it felt and sounded like a crow bar was in the gears but was intermittent over a few hundred miles. they blames my fluid , RP, ....go figure a-holes.
I don't know what causes it but, the little squiggly ends of the clips seem to break off.
That's what I found in my diff oil first. Then the rest of the clip, works it's way out of the slot, chewing up the bearing caps and carrier as the whole lot rotates.
Dodge really should have issued a recall on this!
It's no good just picking up warranties and saying they've done good for the customer.
What about all the folks who are out of waranty ????
Also, think of the damage this could cause on a busy road, when your diff explodes and your right in the middle of heavy traffic????
Hell, it's bad enough when the computer gremlins put you in limp mode and you try to pull over to the side. At least you have some power to get you there???
I'm really surprised and thankful that there hasn't been a fatality due to this clip problem???
Warranties just don't cover stuff like that???
Which bearing and seals? The pinion seal is easy. The bearings are not too bad, you need a bearing puller and a press to install the new bearings. A lot of shops will do it if you buy the bearings from them. Just make sure you keep the shims intact between the bearing and carrier and/or pinion. There is a special tool to loosen the differential bearing adjusters, it is a long (3') thing that you put in from the axle end. There is a good pic of the adjuster in the previous post. only loosen one side, then you won't mess up the gear setup.
Grim Reaper - You'll need a dial indicator & magnetic stand (for the indicator) to measure the backlash BEFORE you take the differential case & ring gear out. A suitable puller & press is needed for bearing R&R. If the R&P gears are going to be reused, the inner pinion bearing shim can (should) be reused. Suitable bearing race drivers are needed to correctly seat the races. New crush sleeve(spacer) is needed upon reinstallation of pinion gear & bearings. Next, an inch pound torque wrench is needed to correctly set the pinion bearing preload....if not set properly (too tight) the new bearings will quickly fail & the whole job will need to be done over again. The special tool that goes through each axle tube is required to ACCURATELY set the R&P backlash & carrier bearing preload. Using bent screwdrivers damages the bearing adjusters & will pretty much assure too loose preload on the carrier bearings. This will allow the carrier to move back & forth (especially after new bearings wear in) and cause R&P noise. Moral of this story is unless you have the experience and correct tools, pay a pro to do this kind of work. Nothing will be saved in the long run if the work has to be repeated and (possibly) damaged parts replaced.
I hope that my pics I posted yesterday were helpful to all who saw them. Pay close attention to the empty TracLoc case with the grooves worn into the clutch plate tab holes. This happened because when the clips are removed, the clutch plate tabs are now too small for the case. On the TL unit in the pic, the clips removed themselves like what happened to so many of us in this forum.....myself included....twice!!! Anyway, they are not there for assembly purposes in my opinion. They are there to provide proper fit & anti-thrust damage. Hate to say it but Ford 8.8 & 9.75 LSD's that I've seen are of the same design as our 9.25 TracLocs but WITHOUT the clips. Their clutch plate tabs fit properly as I mentioned before. NOW......Why couldn't DCX do the same thing with the TracLoc unit????? Truth is (IN MY OPINION), the TracLoc is superior to the Auburn unit because it worked better before it failed. I have an Auburn in my truck simply because I need to sleep better at night knowing that the TracLoc time bomb has been removed........and my 7-70 has long since expired.
whats the R&P noise you describe? i get this hummmm at speeds, when i drop the trans into neutral its still there but once back into drive even the slightest blips of the throttle will change the pitch. i dunno if the rear normally makes a tad bit of noise but mine does. i have to have it as quiet as possible to hear it and with the windows down you cant hear it over the wind. its been like this for 35,000 miles now so nothing has gotten worse that i can tell. seems to be louder on really cold (lol 35 is cold in tx ) mornings. 60 is a sweet spot if you would to hear it at and then right at 40 or so. i dont get the usual woo wooo woo woo of a bearing thats going bad though.
I guess the best way I can describe gear noise caused by loose carrier bearing preload would be a very noticable whine when decellerating. The noise would increase when more decell load were placed on the rear axle - ie...coasting down a steep hill with foot completely off brakes & gas and the OD turned off. The noise could also occur on accelleration too. It would depend on which way the carrier was moving.
As for the noise in your truck, it might possibly be originating in the rear diff but based on your description I'm thinking a center bearing if your truck has one. I've never worked on a 4x2 q-cab like yours but since you don't have a t-case but do have a long wheelbase, I'm assuming a hanger (center) bearing is present. Am I correct???
As for gear noise in general, my personal opinion is that all gears make some noise. Some more than others....some caused by less than perfect setup...some just by design....there could be lots of factors. The difference is knowing when the noise heard probably won't cause any harm or if destruction is just down the road. Only experience can tell the difference & of course experience is impossible to describe.
no the drive shaft is one solid peice with no center bearing like the 4x4 ones. im gona try to see if the coasting down a hill with od off will increase the noise. can that carrier bearing be preloaded correctly and solve the problem? or does it need to be replaced?
also can the front pinion bearing be replaced with out removing the pinion gear? is it something i could replace like replacing the pinion seal with out draining the fluid and pulling the whole rear diff apart?
ok ya i had to pull a light trailer for a few miles today and its alot louder with a load on the axle. its not getting louder like its getting worse though as if had the noise for quiet some time now. i kno experience is hard to explain, but is this something with the right tools that can be corrected or do i need to have the rear seals and bearings replaced all together?