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I have an '08 RAM 1500 4.7L throwing a P0443 - EVAP Purge Valve Solenoid Code. Replaced the valve, can't clear the code. When the valve is unplugged, I read the appropriate ~12 volts across the leads from the computer, when it is connected, backprobing I get 0 volts. I've read that the system won't activate the valve until the engine is warm, but have tried dead cold and after reaching full temp.

On two solenoids, if I run manual 12v to the valve, I can hear and feel the valve open and close. When plugged into the vehicle, I never hear nor feel the valve operate.

I'm pretty fluent in GM and Ford, but this is my first personal Dodge. I've read that in older models, this condition could mean a bad PCM, hoping not the case here.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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Welcome to DT!

Disconnect the battery while you put some baby oil on the o-ring on the gas filler cap. If the error doesn't come back for a number of days, you have bad gas cap. I put one of the aftermarket caps on my truck and error just keep coming back. Drove myself nuts looking for the leaking hose and couldn't find anything. Went back to the gas cap but this time I got one from the dealership. The error has come back for almost a year now.


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Welcome to DT!

Disconnect the battery while you put some baby oil on the o-ring on the gas filler cap. If the error doesn't come back for a number of days, you have bad gas cap. I put one of the aftermarket caps on my truck and error just keep coming back. Drove myself nuts looking for the leaking hose and couldn't find anything. Went back to the gas cap but this time I got one from the dealership. The error has come back for almost a year now.


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Been through a handful of caps now. When I clear the code, before even turning the engine back on, the code is back. I would think if it was something vacuum or pressure related, it wouldn't detect an issue until the engine was running to create that pressure. It just seems either electrical or computer related to me.

Thanks!
 

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Been through a handful of caps now. When I clear the code, before even turning the engine back on, the code is back. I would think if it was something vacuum or pressure related, it wouldn't detect an issue until the engine was running to create that pressure. It just seems either electrical or computer related to me.

Thanks!
If that's the case, start with the lines under the battery. Not to sure who thought it would be a good idea to put rubber vacuum lines running under there but well, auto engineers can do some pretty dumb things trying to make everything fit. From there, move to the purge unit next to the gas tank. There are some videos on YouTube that can show you what to look for and even how to change the parts out. The last spot is the hardest to get to... the connections on the top of the fuel tank. I've not had to do that job. Was told the best way is to remove the bed of the truck. Not sure just how that's easier if you're doing the job at home unless you have a few friends helping. Some of the weekend auto shows have used a hand operated bed lift but a block-n-tackle from the ceiling of your garage would seem a-lot cheaper. Maybe not as cheap as a few good friends.

:smile
 

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i chased the same for months. I have a smoke machine which helped 100% but what it was for me on my 06 with only 80k is where the filler neck meets the tank. there was a crack, so patched it up with liquid steel stuff and been good for a long time now. I replaced the purge solenoid, lines, multiple caps and sometimes instantly back on other times a few days but now all good.
 
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