DodgeTalk Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
-4.7 ltr racing-
Joined
·
459 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
alright so of course summer starts and here comes my temp guage booming up to 230 degrees on a 90 degree day again....so here is what i did last couple of days ...i actually take out my thermostat (Just for experiment) and also put my clutch fan BACK ON! and my temp is still hot , even with my electric fan and clutch fan running at the same time! my temp guage is still almost hitting red line ! its as if both the things i did , did not work at all..then i perform a radiator flush as well..and nothing. I Now kinda suspect my heater core....there is no leaking on the passenger side ..but when i put my defrost on in the morning ...there is some oily crap on my windshied and it seems my windshied get very foggy /dirty really fast ..in the summer time?? i dont know but let me know what you think...ive had problems over the last 2 summers with this da*n truck! thanks-
 

·
Admin - David Mack
Joined
·
30,924 Posts
Do you feel any cold spots across the radiator? Are you sure your pump is OK? Do you hear bubbles in the heater core?
 

·
Admin - David Mack
Joined
·
30,924 Posts
from a past DT thread ...
===========================
Checking the Cooling System

If you're hearing water running though your heater core, you have air in the cooling system. You need to park the truck in the driveway with the nose sitting higher than the rest of the truck. While the trucks engine is cold, get under the hood and remove the cap. Start the truck and put the heater on high-heat. Double check the level in the bottle and fill it up to the cold mark. Now just let the truck idle while it warms-up slowly. You need to be careful here because if the system has an air pocket, it could flash-boil on you. If it does that, it’ll push coolant out like “Old Faithful”; so be careful. As a safety measure, you can put the cap on but leave it loose. That way if it flash-boils, it won’t hose you down with hot coolant; not fun! As the coolant flows though the bottle, you can feel when the thermostat opens as the upper hoses gets hot. You need the thermostat to stay open a number of times because it the only way to get the air out of the system. Check the gauge on the dash from time-to-time and when you’re sure the coolant is hot, the thermostat has open-n-closed effort times, and the level in the bottle is full to the hot fill line, you can bet the air is out of the system now. Tighten the cap. Turn the heater off and you’re done purging air from the coolant system. There’s a purge tap on top of the engine but if the bottle is sitting higher, it’s the better choice. I’ve never be able to use the bleeder tap without getting hot coolant all over me and the whole engine. That and I hate the feel of coolant on my arms and hands.

Now you can check the cooling fan. Nothing is harder on the cooling system than the time the vehicle is sitting still with no air-flow though the front of the vehicle. When you first start the truck, you won’t hear the fan after the first few seconds. But as the truck just sits there, the air flow though the radiator gets hotter, and the fan clutch begins to get a little heat into it, the clutch will began to lock-up. You should be able to hear the fan pulling air though the radiator. Keep checking the gauge on the dash and watch where it peaks. Where does the gauge set as you drive down the road? That’s about where the needle should be now as your truck just sits with the engine idling. If the trucks temperature keeps climbing, you could very well have a bad fan clutch.

Move you hand across the face of the radiator. Check for cold spots or areas that seem much hotter than the rest of the surface. If the temperature isn’t uniform, you could have a plugged radiator core. Stop leak products have a bad habit of plugging good and bad areas within the core.

Check your EGR valve. If it's disconnected or plugged, it can cause heating problems. And then after checking all of this, the system just seem to be running too hot; you could have a thermostat that’s not opening fully. Checking or testing it will take more time than the thing is worth. They’re pretty cheap so just replace it. If you’re going to take the time to replace it, you need to make a choice; do I flush the cooling system or use the old coolant. And since you think there maybe stop leak in the system, you need make a choice about using an acid flush though the system. The acid flush should clean that crud out of the system. If you use the acid flush, you need to remember to open up the heat core as well.


:dtrocks:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,137 Posts
If you can, carefully check it out with an infa-red temp gun as it might be faulty sender/gauge. (prob that "may not exist" can be chased forever).
... You don't mention if its losing coolant or if reserve/recovery tank level "rises and falls" correctly.
.. Running/warmed up; feel all tubes on both sides of rad a few inches from troughs, as dmcelhannon said.
... Fans pushing or pulling as they should be??(have seen that mix up)
.. Btm hose collapsing??(no spring inside)
... Loose or rotted away impeller?
 

·
Tricked out Ram
Joined
·
12,635 Posts
You might wanna do a thread search on 4.7's overheating as there are more than a few threads. There may be something in those to help you out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,483 Posts
When does the motor's temp start to rise at? Idle, stop n go traffic, highway speeds or at any given condition?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,974 Posts
When motor is start to burn gas then it rise to any temp without cooling system then engine blow up! lol If higher RPM in warm weather then engine get hot faster. If very cold weather then engine will rise slower but still get hotter under the hood. Even without cooling system in very cold winter and engine still going to blow up! LOL Gotta have cooling system in any weather to keep engine running good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
i had an over heat issue similar to this in my 'o2.... turned out to be a small crack in the coolant overflow... i also had the heater core replaced at the same time... i do still here the gurgling tho the overheating stopped.... if anyone knows what that is, please let me know.. thanx and i hope i was of some help...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,137 Posts
chamberlin said:
turned out to be a small crack in the coolant overflow.

still here the gurgling tho the overheating stopped.... if anyone knows what that is,
... Yep, even the smallest crack/leak in coolant recovery/overflow system may draw in air as engine cools affecting tank levels, aannndddddd
... Gurguling= air in system. ... Clamps on both ends of overflow hose eliminate one possible source of air.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Here's an R&R guide for radiator and thermo on the 4.7....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
137 Posts
i used to have the same problem. Flushed the system numerous times, changed the t-stat, pump was good, fan clutch was good. It ended up the radiator itself was NO good. Not saying that is your problem but it was mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
... Yep, even the smallest crack/leak in coolant recovery/overflow system may draw in air as engine cools affecting tank levels, aannndddddd
... Gurguling= air in system. ... Clamps on both ends of overflow hose eliminate one possible source of air.
now that's something i didn't think of... thx
 

·
Im wired!!!
Joined
·
2,344 Posts
is it a 50/50 mix?
 

·
All Around Great Guy
Joined
·
12,675 Posts
I would try and reverse flush the heater core
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,006 Posts
Being an 04', it's probably time for a major cooling system overhaul, IMO. New radiator, hoses, cap, t-stat, heater core, waterpump, should keep you going trouble free for another 6 years.
 

·
Motörhead For Life!
Joined
·
8,398 Posts
Clamps on both ends of overflow hose eliminate one possible source of air.
Why would you do that, the overflow it there for a reason.........
IF the Rad. Cap is doing it's job there should be no air getting is from it..
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top