DodgeTalk Forum banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Seems questions have no answers here.
I have a 09 Avenger 2.4 and the Tstat housing leaks where the radiator hose goes into it. I've replaced both parts, gasket, tstat and it still leaks there. Way too much money spent to solve what should be an easy solution, unless it's just poor engineering.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,719 Posts
New T state housing might do the trick or maybe as a last option RTV silicone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
3rd gen of Avenger?

Does someone knows whether Dodge will make 3rd gen of Avenger?
I was read a lot articles and most of it are a pure crap.
This is some interesting article on 2015releasedateprices.com but they say that it will be produced for the 2016 model year
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,879 Posts
Well, so far as I know, it is dead and Chrysler will be focusing on the new 200. I have heard talk of an Alfa based RWD chassis that might spawn a new Avenger and maybe a new Cuda.
 

·
Admin - David Mack
Joined
·
30,924 Posts
There's two thermostats on there right? I believe the one you're talking about the primary thermostat located on the front? The second is located on the bottom or or by the cylinder head... something odd like that. If I remember right, the pump has a weep hole above and below the t-stat housing. You need to check to make sure it's not drip down onto the housing. The 2.4L and 2.7L are know to have water pump and timing belt problems and the timing belt turns the water pump. If you do not see any moisture that dipping down, you also need to check your oil. The water pump main seal is a known problem because of the way it's mounted to the block and when it leaks, the antifreeze goes right down into the oil pan. (The antifreeze also kills the timing belt. The pump and belt is a major PITA.) Do you have any milkshake looking oil on the dip stick or any under the oil filler cap. If you do, you need to stop driving the vehicle now because the antifreeze maybe be in the oil and it will kill the bearings and pistons in a heartbeat. If the oil is clean, you're back the the plastic housing around the t-stat.

Everything has to be clean-n-dry and you'll need a good light and mirror. Clean the area in question and make sure everything is very dry. A-little brake cleaner will help clean the area. Compressed air works great here and sometimes the air will even pull moisture from wherever or whatever is leaking. The area I see the leaks the most is under the bolts. The ears crack and it can be hard to see. If the compressed air didn't find anything, your best way now to find a leak is with pressure. So get a radiator tester and pump at least half the rated pressure on the cap into the system a-little at a time. Push a few pump in and then check everything around the area where the leak is located using the light and mirror. If you don't see anything, pump a-little more air into the system and check again. Watch the gauge. If you don't find a leak by the time you have pumped half the pressure you may as well take the pressure just short of the full pressure rating of the cap and see if the system holds the pressure. After one or two minutes and you still do not have a leak, you may have a stress crack. That normally will only open with heat in the engine. Remove the tester, replace the cap, and start the engine. Sometimes the crack jumps out at you and the other times they seem to take their time to see and find it. Remember to release the pressure slowly when you take the tester off. And be very careful which type of sealer you use on the engine. Some sealers are not sensor safe. You could fix the leak now and then down the road you'll have a sensor(s) failing on you.

Sorry if I sounded like a shop teacher but I haven't a clue what your skill level is working on vehicles.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top