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· pressurevac
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As you can see in my sig. I just put a bunch of work into my engine. All high performance parts- $3500 worth! But when I picked it up last night it was a fricking dog! Not much power at all. I'm taking it this morning to be dyno'd and tweaked as maybe some sensors are not set right or something. Anyone have an engine built and be very dissappointed? What may be some issues besided everything being very tight right now?
 

· Read Only
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Has anything been done to your stock computer? Any updates or changes to it? As far as I know if you haven't done anything with it then it won't know that you added all those performance parts. They are set up to be efficient/power balanced to give daily drivers decent mpg (for a truck) with the every bit of power now and again. Any pics of the motor? Kinda curious to see how it looks =). Good luck with it.

[Redacted]
 

· pressurevac
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not yet- I will be going to my dealer tomorrow to diagnose my computer as my timing is jumping all over the place at an idle. I may just need a flash update as I cannot locate a performance computer for a 2001, only a 2000 5.9L. I do have pictures, just need to post them now!
 

· Originating Member
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just a couple of questions (so, no offense - just trying to get some ideas here ...)


How much horsepower did you start with (did you dyno it before and after the mods ?)

so basically, you added a throttle body, a custom CAI, headers, and a cam

how much did you realistically expect to gain at the rear wheels ?

Does the " Performance Valvetrain " mean you went with roller rockers ?

like I said, I'm not cutting you down or anything, just trying to get a clearer picture

thanks
 

· pressurevac
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I only started with 205 HP. I added a fresh 360 longblock, Camshaft, springs, hydraulic lifters, hi-flow throttle body, cold air intake, cap, rotor, plugs, wires coil, exhaust, headers....... I kinda expected to be around 300HP. A couple of tech figure I am missing about 125-150 HP right now because my computer does not know what is going on with all these mods. I would like to get a NEW performance computer, but it seems as though there isnt one in any listing for an 01- just up to the 2000 year. The performance valvetrain means that all of my valvetrain is new MOPAR PERFORMANCE parts. No offence taken!
 

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the only things i see that may have added some power are the headers,exhaust,cai and cam.Depending on which cam you went with,it could hurt your low speed performance.Your looking at MAYBE a 30-40 hp improvement with all those parts put on.do you have specs on the 360?was it higher compression or just a stock long block?find the cam specs too,if it's the 458/467 cam,i noticed a slight lag in low speed response and that was in a 3400 lb,5 spd,5.2,3.92 geared Dakota.if it was the larger cam,you might need a higher stall torque convertor to get it back in the powerband sooner.I hear all the good reports about the throttle bodies,but am still skeptical if they truly add hp on a stock or close to stock engine.The only thing that might be giving your pcm trouble is the cam,but it sounds like the truck is in a "limp home" mode or something.
 

· pressurevac
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Oh yeah- I havent put the supercharger in yet, only got about 50 miles on the new engine. But will go on in due time!
 

· pressurevac
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The cam was an Extreme energy Comp towing cam ground for low end torque
 

· pressurevac
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here are the cam specs
Comp Cam part #20-745-9

Gross valve lift Intake .480 Exhaust .480
Duration @ .006 lift Intake 264 Exhaust 270
 

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551 Posts
are you sure thats the series of comp cam?those are all flat tappet hydraulic cams,our trucks come standard with a hydraulic roller cam(that would be going back in technology).there is 3 cams that fit your description(xe250h,xe256h and xe262h),but around 6 in that series of cam.Finding the specs are really important.maybe they shipped the wrong cam and you have one of the more radical cams?which would really kill your low end power.Also,i would'nt even think about putting the blower on until you get all this figured out.one headache at a time,and those blowers can be a headache.
 

· pressurevac
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The valve adjustement on this cam is speced as hydraulic and this IS a computer controlled cam as well. It is in their Extreme Energy series.
 

· pressurevac
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
In any case.... I believe my problem to lie with the computer. That is my next part to attack!!
 

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yea i'd definately check into that and maybe tire height and gearing.I think that cam is actually a bit bigger than the smaller RT cam(the 458/467 cam).If thats the case,it's defiantely going to feel doggy on the bottom end in a heavy 4wd QC.Even getting the pcm figured out might not do away with that.Might have to get a higher stall convertor of lower gears.Once you change one part of a engine combo,you usually have to change a few other things to get it all in synch.Just my .02
 

· pressurevac
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
hey thanks, I can use all the 2 cents I can!!
 

· Ram Racer
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1,582 Posts
Motor mods are fun arent they lol ;) Mild 408 strokers get around 310+rwhp.
Yeah, have to agree, around 240rwhp I would say(around 300crank). That blower should help matters ;)

If this is a fresh motor, it will be a bit tight.
Cam could be off a tooth.
More than likely the sync between the crank shaft sensor and the camshafts sensor is off. When I put mine in (rt+10/m1) same thing, it was just horrible. Took it to my parts guy down the street cause I knew he had a scan tool. When we checked it was retarded 4-5degrees. Little tweak of the distributor till it was at 0. KRC says they advance it 6-8 degrees with their cams. I would suspect for na engines it would be fine. Blower in your future set it at zero degrees cause your going to have to pull timing anyways(or n2o).

You could still use a couple things more as others mentioned
High stall torque convertor is a must, go with 2400 min.
Gears, bump them up, you want a 410 or higher final(if you dont already cant see sig)
1.7 roller rockers will give back some of the lost torque as well. The total lift would be .510/.510 with the higher ratio.

As far as a tune goes.
You could get Mike Leach at B&G Chrysler to do a flash on your stock pcm but that would mean your trucks down till it returns. The flash isnt cheap but I think you get one free update (for blower :)) so it may not be a bad deal. Maybe get one off ebay and send it in.
Other route get a piggyback tuner like I have now, or a full standalone managment like the PR8 or FAST setups.
 

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I know the feeling. I had a 66 Impala SS with a 327 and it went pretty good. I sold the car to a friend and he didn't treat the car well and eventually he pulled the engine and put a 350 he had built with bigger heads bigger cam etc. and it was actually slower. Made a ton of noise but slower. Even his 5 yr old nephue said so. he was very disappointed. I think it was tuning or something but I know what you mean.
 

· pressurevac
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173 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
so you think with 4.10's, 1.7 rockers, and a programmer I should be in business! Oh yeah, and a higher stall. Geez.. all this just to get a little more torque for towing!!:buttkick:
 

· Ram Racer
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1,582 Posts
Cams are a costly mod. Most don't realize just how many parts they have to change untill they get into it. Its not a matter of getting all the performance or part of the performance, by not adding them. Its more you will actually slow the truck down untill you do get them. Cams can make or break performance.
 
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