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4x4's-r-me!
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Discussion Starter #1
If you've read my earlier Thread. I need some help. I've fixed several codes so now my D is no longer knocking and I have limited throttle response. This is where I am. I need your guidance.

Recently I changed the Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input sensor. P0113 code is gone. I now have throttle control at first. It idles very rough. No Knocking. I can now reeve the engine for about 3 or 4 times then it acts like I'm flooding it and I loose throttle response. I have a new code now p2172="Throttle Actuator Control System - Sudden High Airflow Detected" Code P061A is still there. Could this be a Mapp sensor gone bad? If so where would I find it?
 

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Good to see ya back! ;)

The MAPP sensor is located right between the AC compressor and Alternator, i believe :SPIN:

My truck has been clicking/knocking as well...do you have a video of yours? maybe we can compare horrible engine sounds :D
 

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4x4's-r-me!
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Discussion Starter #3
Hey MileHiRango,

Ya... I've missed you guys. Things have just been CRAZY over the last year. BUT I know where to go when I get into trouble.:rck:

The Map sensor is located exactly where you said it would be...in between the AC compressor and Alternator. After getting the part from Autozone last night went home only to discover that they gave me the wrong part. This is the third time this has happened!

I don't know if this has ever happened to you but... After went back to the store and started talking to the guy he picks up the phone and starts talking to another costumer. He stayed on the phone for 5-10 minutes. :ugh I couldn't leave because he had my money. Then they wanted to charge me $64 to order the right part. So I went to Advanced Auto Parts they sold me the part for $25. PLUS...They showed me a picture of what it looks like. It should be in sometime today.

This has been some challenge.:crazy: I've changed:
-# 5 coil pack (I may still have to change the rest the coil packs)
-Throttle body (Throttle Position sensor is located in the TB Autozone didn't know this!)
-Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input sensor
-Map sensor.

As for your truck...When was the last time you changed your spark plugs? I had a slight knocking this summer. I change mine and it completely disappeared. Apparently...If a cylinder isn't getting rid of all if the fuel it can cause knocking. These Hemi's have 16 plugs 2 per cylinder. If one isn't firing it could cause the knocking you hear.

The noise I described when this first happened was a horrible noise. It sounded like I bent or broke a rod. After changing the coil pack the knocking completely disappeared. My problem now is lack of power over a long time. IT says that I have an air flow issue. I hope this Map sensor will fix it I WANT MY RANGO BACK;).

Thanks for the reply and best of luck,
Jason
 

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Hey MileHiRango,
After getting the part from Autozone last night went home only to discover that they gave me the wrong part. This is the third time this has happened!

I don't know if this has ever happened to you but... After went back to the store and started talking to the guy he picks up the phone and starts talking to another costumer. He stayed on the phone for 5-10 minutes. :ugh I couldn't leave because he had my money. Then they wanted to charge me $64 to order the right part. So I went to Advanced Auto Parts they sold me the part for $25. PLUS...They showed me a picture of what it looks like. It should be in sometime today.
:nono:nono:nono:nono:nono:nono

I don't have an auto zone around me so i always use advanced, or napa depending on the day.

I replaced the sparks not too long ago, maybe 15k chassis miles...but i think this motor still has stock plugs so i may look into the plugs, but from what i remember they were in fairly good condition....but never hurts to check again!

Did you ever get a AFR gauge installed? i wonder if that would help diagnose you problem, maybe after a while it starts running to lean? After researching water temp sensors, i found that the HEMI's will adjust the AFR and the timing depending on the temperature of the engine...I wonder if a bad MAP sensor would through off the computer and loose power
 

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4x4's-r-me!
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Discussion Starter #5
It shows that it is running rich. You can smell the gas when you run it.

I installed the new Map sensor and the code p2172="Throttle Actuator Control System - Sudden High Airflow Detected" is gone. But the Code P061A is still there and it now has no throttle response and idles rough. BUT it's not dieing.

I really thought the Map sensor would have fixed the truck! This is frustrating. I'm going to reinstall the factory program back into the ECU maybe that will work.

I'm now thinking it's either the ECU or the gas pedal switch (I guess that's what it's called). Heck it could be another coil pack gone bad. It never told me that I had a bad Coil pack in the first place. It just gave me a P0205 code. That had to do something to do with the fuel injector. This is starting to get beyond me.

If I only had a $200,000 diagnostic machine I would sell it and buy a new Durango. :) My mechanic friend is coming over this weekend maybe we'll figure it out.

-Jason
 

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might it have anything to do w/ that hollowed out Cat in the pics in your "garage" section?
 

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When i installed my second engine it started up first try but i could get anymore than idle out of the engine, and that HEMI barely got me up the small hill in my neighborhood....the culprit was the throttle body which was not compatible with the 04 ECU in a Durango.

I'd check the throttle body and make sure it's not jammed, maybe you can try another throttle body if you know someone with another HEMI? that is if the ECU re-flash doesn't work.

-Best of luck!
 

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4x4's-r-me!
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Discussion Starter #10
So here is where were at... I still have the p2172code ="Throttle Actuator Control System - Sudden High Airflow Detected" We hooked it up to a real time computer and a placed vacuum gauge on the intake manifold. Both confirmed that there is a huge leak somewhere. Both gauges fluctuated so were thinking that I have piston issues.

Tonight I'm going to take off the spark plugs and check pressure on each of the cylinder heads. Best case...If they're consistent, I have a bad gasket on the intake manifold. Worst case... the pressure is inconsistent meaning I should have metal in the oil pan. :ugh Resulting in a fun winter project. :bawl: Wish me luck.

-Jason
 

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4x4's-r-me!
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Discussion Starter #11
So this is what I discovered. Cylinder # 2 has no compression.

Started pulling the D apart last night. Remove the wiper assembly. Real pain in the :spank:. The trick is to loosely put on the nuts and use a pair of channel locks. Grip on the nut and the wiper and squeeze.... Popped right off. For your perverts get that image out of your heads!!!:ecool: If you ever do this REMEMBER to mark where the blades were aligned.

So far I've disconnected and labeled all the wiring harnesses, removed the wheel wells, hood, battery box, all the spark plug wires, fuel injectors, and started on taking off the alternator and AC compressor.

Other than the Wiper blades this has been a breeze. Of course putting it back together may be a different story.

I'll try to post some pics before the weekend is over. :postpics: I remember how much Dodge4L1fe loves pics. :D

Keep me in your prayers,
Jason
 

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4x4's-r-me!
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Discussion Starter #15
New motor in the future.

We found the problem. Piston #1 is a goner!!! It looks like anti freeze seeped into the cylinder. When I turned the engine over it tried to compress the liquid. Of course water is incompressible. So it's smashed the piston and broke the crank shaft. BAD!!! BAD!!! BAD!!!

Soooooo....At a local junk year a motor with 28,000 miles is $2,800. It's better than a new car payment.

Oh Ya...I discovered something new today... Clunker for cash SUCKS!!! The junkyard guy said a similar motor would have cost $2000 prior to Clunker for Cash. Supply and Demand!!! I doubt this is the entire truth but these guys are using it as an excuse to rack up the price.

It is what it is,
Jason
 

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What year and what vehicle did it come from?

My local dealership offered me 3800 for the high performance Hemi. I bought my 06 RAM engine with 62,000 miles on it for 1800.
 

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What year and what vehicle did it come from?

My local dealership offered me 3800 for the high performance Hemi. I bought my 06 RAM engine with 62,000 miles on it for 1800.
^Yeah! What was the donor? You would not **** Jagger's liver in an organ transplant, wouldja'?:nono

2005 and up (2006 2500 Ram HEMI is best. Newest, reliable and no MDS - plugs right in!)
 

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4x4's-r-me!
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Discussion Starter #18
Guy's are you sure? After 04 they started that fuel eco stuff. Where some times it runs all eight cylinders and other times it runs on 4 or 6 cylinders. I would think that there would be all kinds of computer issues and mounting issues.

I don't have the specifics about the motor but it has a 3 year 100,000 mile warranty. Shipping and taxes included.

I'm all ears if you have any ideas shoot. Just don't use **** Jagger's liver code. I'm a middle aged white guy... not so up on today's modern lango. :thatfunny


Wait.....Ahhhhhhh..... I got it. **** Jagger is an alcoholic... Funny:D

Jason
 

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Wait.....Ahhhhhhh..... I got it. **** Jagger is an alcoholic... Funny:D

Engines to stay away from
-2004-05 Durango Hemi engines
-All car Hemi's (Magnum, Challenger, Charger)
-2007-Present Durango Hemi's (MDS)
-2006(i think)-Present Ram 1500 engines (MDS)

The engines that will work the best (Like Beach Assault said) 2006-08 Ram 2500 Hemi engines. Not sure if the 2009-Curent Ram 2500 engine's work, but i know that you can buy a brand new HEMI so i assume one of the current Mopars has a compatible engine...just not sure which one :ugh

Although if you decide to sell it, i call dibs!
 
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