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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I thought I'd start this thread. I have posted various questions about '75 d100's, and engine swaps. And now, I've started on it. Abit, slow I must admit. Things will happen as time and money allows of course, but I thought I'd start share everything as we go along. That way, when I need help, yall know where I am coming from!

Here is a link to blog that I've started for it. From here on, I'll post here and then on it. http://75dodged100.wordpress.com/

I did a few things more to it this weekend, but for Texas, it was decently cold and really windy so I didn't get to do much. I'll be posting those pictures and info soon.

Cheers!
 

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Good luck with the restoration. I look forward to reading of your progress. Be sure to post lots of pics.:D
 

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Nice blog..a little advice. Tackle and be aggressive on that roof rust right now it looks like surface rust but once it gets into that drip rail you will have a time getting it out. The door and fenders can be gotten at a j yard. Also looks like a hole is in the floorboards, try dodge connection and get some new floor pans. overall it is a nice truck, still would like to know why someone dropped #6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nice blog..a little advice. Tackle and be aggressive on that roof rust right now it looks like surface rust but once it gets into that drip rail you will have a time getting it out. The door and fenders can be gotten at a j yard. Also looks like a hole is in the floorboards, try dodge connection and get some new floor pans. overall it is a nice truck, still would like to know why someone dropped #6.
Yeah, I've got better pictures of the floor I need to post. There is minor holes in it for sure. That roof is actually not rust, thats the actual color, surprisingly.

As far as the fenders, its been hard to find fenders thus far. I found a 75 a couple months ago that I got the back glass from. However, it was dents really nicely on both fenders. :/ I am still keeping a eye out though!

My main plan is drive train and body. But this weekend I discovered some more surface rust under the truck, that has led me to consider tearing the whole body down and starting from the ground up. Sand blasting the whole frame, and going from there. Its nothing super major, and its very much only surface rust. And even though its in a dry area and not in a field anymore, I don't want it to get worse or spread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. I used to ride in the truck with him when I was a little kid, so I never drove it. I can't wait until I can. Even if its around the yard.

Does anyone know an answer to my question about 318 bolting up to my Slant 6 transmission?
 

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Thanks. I used to ride in the truck with him when I was a little kid, so I never drove it. I can't wait until I can. Even if its around the yard.

Does anyone know an answer to my question about 318 bolting up to my Slant 6 transmission?

The 318 will NOT bolt up to the /6 transmission. You will need a small block transmission - either a 904 or 727 from any small block Chrysler. 727 is the better choice, but a 904 works just fine in most stock type applications.

Either above transmission should bolt into the truck with no problems. If you use a 727, the driveshaft will have to be re-worked - as the yoke is bigger than a 904.

Or, if you want, you can ramp up to the newer 4 speed overdrive transmissions, there is a little work involved to do this swap.

read about it here:

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The 318 will NOT bolt up to the /6 transmission. You will need a small block transmission - either a 904 or 727 from any small block Chrysler. 727 is the better choice, but a 904 works just fine in most stock type applications.

Either above transmission should bolt into the truck with no problems. If you use a 727, the driveshaft will have to be re-worked - as the yoke is bigger than a 904.

Or, if you want, you can ramp up to the newer 4 speed overdrive transmissions, there is a little work involved to do this swap.

read about it here:

http://www.transmissioncenter.net/SwapInformation.htm
Stock look is important to me, is there a PRNDL that I can change to for this year of truck with a PRN(D)DL? Or maybe PRND3L or something like that?
 

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440 and a 4 speed
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I assume you mean the overdrive conversion....as the regular swap on the 727/904 retains all the stock selections

Not sure, as I have not done this conversion, I thought about it, but I much prefer my 4 speed manuals and I'm going to go that route in my truck, but from what I understand, the 518 conversion still utilizes your original PRND21 postions, and that the overdrive is handled via the pressure switches and electronics, and not the manual gear selector, so, if you put her in drive, she'll shift auto 1-3 and then overdrive as needed, and if you pull her down into 2 or 1 it'll go to those lower gears.

so as far as stock look inside, you should be fine....the overdrive will be "our little secret".
 

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Thanks. I used to ride in the truck with him when I was a little kid, so I never drove it. I can't wait until I can. Even if its around the yard.

Does anyone know an answer to my question about 318 bolting up to my Slant 6 transmission?

Marty,

The transmission interchange issue I can't speak to. If you can't find a good 518, consider using whichever stock tranny is appropriate and replacing the extension with a Gear Vendors overdrive unit. Everyone I know who has one loves it, and I am told that they are just about bulletproof. One thing I do know about the transmission issue is this: be certain that your torque converter is compatible with whatever engine you use. If the engine is "externally balanced", so must the torque converter be. Same deal if the engine turns out to be internally balanced. Otherwise, you will be stuck in Vibration City.

One more thing: you will need a new radiator to be compatible with a 318 or whatever V-8 engine you choose. I recommend the HeatBuster from Proliance Radiator. It has a very stock appearance, and I use them in all of my vehicles for which they offer an application. Be sure to specify all copper/brass construction, though, 'cause otherwise you might end up with plastic and aluminum.

Good luck with the project.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm okay with a switch for the overdrive then. Maybe I can make back some of the money I am paying for the engine by selling the old tranny.

If my memory serves, 318's are internally balanced, and 360's are externally. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Yeah the radiator is toast, it was full of a lot of different things, so I'll need a new one of those for sure.
 

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440 and a 4 speed
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I'm okay with a switch for the overdrive then. Maybe I can make back some of the money I am paying for the engine by selling the old tranny.

If my memory serves, 318's are internally balanced, and 360's are externally. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Yeah the radiator is toast, it was full of a lot of different things, so I'll need a new one of those for sure.
You are correct on the balance. Defintely get the v-8 radiator, very good points taken.

Other things to consider, the "new" 318. What year is it? has it been rebuilt? What heads are on the motor? Does the engine come with the exhaust manifolds.

The reason I ask, is there are some small issues that might show up, and need to be planned for. Ifthe manifolds are not part of the deal, and you plan on headers, you might have to make a modification on the gear selector shaft that goes between the side of the transmission and the frame. (The header on the driver side usually winds up dead smack in the middle of that - and you have to cut the rod and weld a "U" bar to allow the exhaust to go and retain your column shift.

If you are using exhaust manifolds from a different year than the engine, some manifolds have the air injection system which will need plugging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
You are correct on the balance. Defintely get the v-8 radiator, very good points taken.

Other things to consider, the "new" 318. What year is it? has it been rebuilt? What heads are on the motor? Does the engine come with the exhaust manifolds.

The reason I ask, is there are some small issues that might show up, and need to be planned for. Ifthe manifolds are not part of the deal, and you plan on headers, you might have to make a modification on the gear selector shaft that goes between the side of the transmission and the frame. (The header on the driver side usually winds up dead smack in the middle of that - and you have to cut the rod and weld a "U" bar to allow the exhaust to go and retain your column shift.

If you are using exhaust manifolds from a different year than the engine, some manifolds have the air injection system which will need plugging.
Its a early 70's as far as the guy knows. I believe it was rebuilt by the previous owner. He bought it wanting to put in his '53 dodge, but decided to just rebuild the Flathead that came with it. Thats why he's selling. It does not have the exhaust manifolds. I don't know what heads are on it. Its basically a long block. No intake or exhaust, or valve covers. Which is great because it leaves my options open.

I'll keep that in mind about the headers, I probably was going to run with headers but I hadn't decided.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got home with the 318. It was in the exact condition that he said, so I'm happy about that. Apparently it was rebuilt 10k ago. After being in a 70 Dodge Dart for that 10k (I don't know if thats within a year or what), the engine was pulled to be replaced by a 440. The guy said he did see the 318 run before it was pulled. The reason he was selling, is because he wanted to rebuild the straight six flathead in his 53 Chrysler Windsor, instead of putting in the v8.

He ended giving me the exhaust manifolds, starter, and distributor. I'm on the hunt now for some Mopar Performance valve covers. Once it gets in the truck, I'll probably know what intake and carb I want on it.

I've got a Slant six and auto transmission for sale! I'll get pictures together and create a proper thread for it soon. Is this a okay place to post it? I looked in the For Sale area, and it looks like its more for your newer stuff.
 

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Nice thing about the Mods here...if you post it and it does not fit..they will move it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thats good, most places I've posted in they yell at you then close it. I am not sure thats really productive...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I found a 727 transmission, this transmission should fit and work with my 318 correct? Do I need a different driveshaft?

I updated with pictures of the motor, on the blog.
 
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