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Hello, I have a 1998 dodge ram 1/2 ton and my a/c is fully charged but it stops working after a 1/2 hour of use. The compressor clutch is no longer engaged anymore. I've noticed if you turn the a/coff for about a 1/2 hour than turn it on again it starts working again. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.
 

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Check your high and low pressure switches. You said it's fully charged but is it overcharged? Did you check and see if you had power at the compressor coil wire? Might be an issue with AC knob/switch in the dash.
 

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its going into a protection mode, Check your levels
 

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I took it to the shop today and recovered 1.7lbs. I found out that the schrader valve on the high side pressure line is leaking. Can this valve be replaced by itself, or do you have to change the whole line? Thanks
 

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Hello, does anyone have a schematic for the a/c system? My a/c is still cutting out after 1/2 hour of use in the city. But when I'm on the highway, it doesn't cut out at all. Any ideas?
 

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I took it to the shop today and recovered 1.7lbs. I found out that the schrader valve on the high side pressure line is leaking. Can this valve be replaced by itself, or do you have to change the whole line? Thanks
So it was over filled like i stated before. Who found the leak? I believe it can be changed but to do so the whole system need to evacuated and refilled after its replaced.

My a/c is still cutting out after 1/2 hour of use in the city. But when I'm on the highway, it doesn't cut out at all. Any ideas?
Take it to someone who knows what they are doing and have the pressures checked.
 

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I had a similar issue with mine, 2001 w/360 engine. It was intermittent in that it would go for several days and then just quit. Let it sit for an hour and it would work again, for a few minutes or an hour. I found that I had several things going on. The high pressure fitting was leaking ever so slightly (this was not my problem though). The orifice tube was stopping up, causing really low pressure on the low side. My clutch was shorting out some. I could move the wires to it and the resistance would change using an ohm meter. OK, because my truck had 180K on it I decided to change the compressor assembly, dryer, and the orifice tube. I'm not sure but I think they changed the design of that part in 2000 or so, but it does the same thing. You just have to find where it is in your system. I figured that if something was in the line it was likely parts of the compressor. The clutch can be changed but it takes special tools and doesn't look like something I wanted to tackle on an old unit to start with. Long post, I know, but after doing all of that and getting it vacuumed down, I charged it and so far everything is working fine. Those compressors are really easy to change, and if you don't have to have it done, they aren't too expensive. I think I spent about $400 for everything, including freon and oil.
 
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