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Discussion Starter #1
Gauge shows im losing 40% but im doubting the accuracy of it, its harbor freight and with an air nozzle open it only shows im losing 60%. Anyways, all the air is escaping through the intake valve and just by looking at it with the valve cover off it looks like the spring dosnt rest as high as the others when closed. Havnt taken the rocker arms off to inspect the spring, will I be able to inspect the entire thing without removing it?
 

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A number of HEMI folks have had problems with broken intake springs. Do a search on the 6.1L intake springs swap and that should answer all your questions.

:(
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll look into it but arnt the 6.1 springs suppose to be bulletproof?
 

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Redtruck-VA
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Broken valve springs was primarily a 03/04 related item. But you already have identified the problem, so you either have a broken spring and/or bent valve. Broken spring can be easily changed with the head on the engine. A bent valve will require the heade to be removed. Good luck..
 

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What made you do a leak down test in the first place?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
What made you do a leak down test in the first place?
misfire on the 3rd cylinder, low compression. Pulled the head and the intake valve isnt seating properly
 

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misfire on the 3rd cylinder, low compression. Pulled the head and the intake valve isnt seating properly
What were the initial symptoms? (Im guessing a P0303) but what was the truck doing performance wise. If you seen my posts Im having a cyl1 misfire code, it hasnt come back but I can faintly tell something just isnt right at times.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
it was choppier than normal at idle, besides that it wasnt real bad. I reset it a few times, some times it would take up to 50 miles before it cam back. Started going through all the steps to see what the problem was and now my truck is in pieces.
 

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Redtruck-VA
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What is wrong with the valve/valve seat to keep the valve from seating?
 

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it was choppier than normal at idle, besides that it wasnt real bad. I reset it a few times, some times it would take up to 50 miles before it cam back. Started going through all the steps to see what the problem was and now my truck is in pieces.
Ok. Mine is a little different. It holds a nice steady 650rpms at idle, but if I hold it at 2000 rpms, the exhaust has a faint pop...pop...pop and after its warmed up it drops 500rpms, then shoots back up to 2k again, and repeats this every 15 seconds or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
possibly a bent stem? I thought they looked fine when i first pulled it. I was advised to shine a light into the intake port and check for light around the valve. Sure enough I could see light, it wouldnt hold water either.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
turns out my valve was bent and not seating properly not only in the 3 cylinder but the 7th as well. Pulling off the other head to have it checked out while im at it. Now I need to figure out how and why it happened. The guys at the local machine shop said the exhaust ports were darker than normal and the cylinders had an unusual amount of carbon build up.
 

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Toothy Critters Rock!
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You might be able to pull the intake then with a small mirror inspect the valve and seat to see if it looks bent, doesn't close flat, has a chunk missing, hole in it, or has a piece of piston welded to the head or something

edit nevermind didn't see your last post
 

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If it was the exhaust valves, I'd say the engine over heated. But with it being the intakes, you have under rev'ed the top-end.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If it was the exhaust valves, I'd say the engine over heated. But with it being the intakes, you have under rev'ed the top-end.
under rev'ed? You mean over rev'ed?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Guys at the local shop thought it could of been over revved or possibly had to much fuel
 

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Toothy Critters Rock!
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If it was the exhaust valves, I'd say the engine over heated. But with it being the intakes, you have under rev'ed the top-end.
under rev'ed
:thatfunny
under what lol

thing you mean over rev'ed?

short of piston kissing valves of something inside getting smushed either as it opens between the piston and valve or between the valve and head as it closes.
wonder what else might bend an intake valve.
They are supposed to slowly rotate all the time, wonder if they quit doing that rotation if they would eventually bend from the fatigue
 

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Discussion Starter #18
They also said the valves had slight "tuliping". Im not sure what caused it but at this point im either going to get them fixed and toss the stock cam back in or get some stock heads and toss the stock cam back in.
 

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Toothy Critters Rock!
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Oh I didn't notice you had inertia heads.
dang you might want to swap to stock heads and talk to Stu to see about getting his guy to fix them. Not sure anyone really knows exactly what all is different in aftermarket heads and their setup except for the guys that produced them.
I'm assuming you wouldn't want the truck down any length of time.


hrmm tuliping eh... what springs are on those heads and what is the cam lift?
and with the dished valves as they are how do you tell if they are tulipped?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
the springs are crower, im pretty sure they are standard on the the premium big valve heads. I was planning on purchasing the replacement valves from stu and having a local shop put them in, there a little less expensive and I dont have to ship them to texas. Is this a bad idea? Ill have to look for my cam card I dont remember off hand but I know it was similar to the 268 but more aggressive in some way.

I just pulled the other head and from what I can tell all the valves are seating properly. Im thinking of getting some stock heads from a junkyard putting them on the truck with the stock cam than getting these heads fixed and selling them. I like going fast but I cant afford to keep dumping cash into my truck and I really cant be without my work truck for this long.
 
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