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Discussion Starter #1
I just did the brakes for the 1st time on my '06 with 65K on it.
I did only the rear tonight because i noticed the passenger side rear grinding on the rotor yesterday.
Replaced the passenger rotor and put pads on both sides. Pads on the driver a a little more left. Maybe the with of 3 quarters stacked.
Went for a test drive and I have a knock I can hear when almost to a stop.
Done brakes before... can't image what a knock could be.? I can feel the knock on as it rolls to a stop.

Any common issues I should be looking for?

Thanks, Clyde
 

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I had a knock when the pad would shift in the caliper when backing up then going forward. Just a thought. :dunno:
 

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LPG Hemi
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Did you tuck the small locating tab on the calipers into the caliper adapter plates so the caliper is sitting & fixed correctly into the plate?
New anti-rattle clips?
Just two things to think of.
Al.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will check tonight.... wish I would have took a picture before I disassembled.

So I would have record and be sure i knew what you were talking about.
I could pull a front wheel i guess and verify since i have not touched those yet... but they are next after i resolve this one.

Clyde
 

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Discussion Starter #5
oh.. and i did not add any new clips on the caliper plate. The new pads also have plates built on them.

Thanks, Clyde
 

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All Around Great Guy
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Maybe the emergency brake shoes are moving around a bit? When i took my rears off(61k) i had to back off the emergency shoes all the way and hit the rotor several times. It jarred the frail e brake shoe material and when i put them back on and readjusted them it must have been it for em'...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did try last night to stop with only the emergency breaks... no knock then .. I was trying to rule out something with the rearend. Would think if something with the emergency brake pads ... it would have centered them up in the drum.

I don't know.
 

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All Around Great Guy
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Like said above, anti rattle clips? Caliper bolts are all tight? E brake shoes adjusted up good?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Are the anti-rattle clips we are talking about the clips on the support that you bolt the caliper to?
If so I used the ones that were there already.
If the anti-rattles are on the back of the pads... my new pads have them already.. they are riveted on the pad.

I know the 10mm bolts that bold the caliper are tight.

Thanks for the help!! , Clyde
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK...
Does anyone know how much end-play there should be in the rearend?
Meaning with the wheel/tire off pulling on the lug studs toward me.

My passenger side has .020 or so and the drive has none.

Normal??

I will go post in the drive train area too.
 

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[[[[[[[Paul]]]]]]]
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Knock

I've seen rotors with too much run out cause this (new doesn't always mean good). When you're driving, the pads and caliper can move freely with the "warped" rotor, but when you press the brake pedal, the caliper is locked with the rotor and has to move more than it was designed for. This is when you will get the "knocking" noise. One way you can check for this is put the rear end on jack stands and take the tires off. Put two lug nuts on each rotor and hand tighten. Put the trans in 1st gear and watch the caliper for movement. You may have to have someone lightly press the brake pedal but if it is out you can usually see it moving back and forth without applying brakes. BE CAREFUL around spinning axles and studs!! If ABS codes are set they will clear on your next drive cycle.
 

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I've also seen ad had a set that were improperly machined from factory(stupid cheap rotors) that caused a knocking noise when the brakes were applied exactly how you are describing it. run a fingernail across the machining on teh rotor. are the cuts deep in the surface?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mean run my nail across like I was feeling the groves on a vinyl record? .. same direction? If so ... yes it has that feel.

It is like a thump thump thump right before you stop completes.
I took it all loose again this afternoon and could find no error on my part.... test drove again and it was a little better but still there... It was not there before I did the brakes. That side wore out I bet 1st do to that little bit on end-play.

Well ... there was $80 rotor and a $47 choice from the local auto parts. I did choose the $47 one.

Man... starting to feel better about my rearend!! The one on the car :) cause serious $ otherwise!

Will the pads set in and get better?

Thanks, Clyde
Forums are so cool! :rck:
 

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I would return that rotor and get a new one, warranty my friend. Your symptoms match mine exactly. I would start there.
 
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