Are you working with the factory wiring diagrams for your D? Also, do you have factory security and keyless entry?
I hooked mine up to the CTM (Central Timer Module) inputs from the lock/unlock switch on the door-- so my remote start system does the electrical equivalent of pushing that switch for lock and unlock. If you have factory security, there will also be a CTM input from the driver's door lock cylinder that you can tap into for the security disable (so your new RKE can turn off the factory security).
I took quite a while to work out the installation on paper before I cut into any wires to make sure that everything would work the way I wanted. I used the FSM wiring diagrams and made a rough diagram showing how each wire from my security/remote start/RKE system would connect to the D.
yea im using factory diagrams and i dont have secruity factory just keyless entry where is the ctm to tap into for the unlock/lock any certain color wire? Everything else is hooked up and works like a charm.
You still have a CTM just not the "high-line" CTM as they call it. Check your FSM for the wire colors (they could be different from mine which had the "high-line" CTM). You should be able to find the wires in that cluster of connectors at the firewall under the dash on the driver's side-- that's where I made most of my splices.
The CTM itself is located inside the dash to the right of the glove compartment, but no need to get to it, just splice in the wires on the other side of the dash.
FSM means "Factory Service Manual". If you look at wire diagram number 8W-61-3, you'll see that unlock requires a momentary 12v positive (+) signal to the pk/vt wire that goes to the CTM and lock requires a momentary 12v positive (+) signal to the or/vt wire that goes to the CTM (both wires are 18 guage).
The diagram also shows that these wires pass through connector number C246. If you go to the connector location charts, you'll see that C246 is a smaller connector right next to C200 (the really big connector under the driver's side of the dash at the fire wall.) If you go to the connector pin-out chart for C246, you can find the exact pin location for the two wire colors-- but that's not necessary since you can just dig for those colors.
I can't help you with how, exactly to hook up your particular alarm since they are all different. Just hook it up so that it sends the required signals to the CTM per above. (Sometimes that requires use of a relay, sometimes not, depending on the alarm.)
Making the actual connection--- In my case, I used an exacto-knife to cut away about 3/8 of an inch of insulation on the wires without cutting the wires themselves. I used a sharp "dental pick" to open up the stranded conductors and inserted the wire from the alarm, then wrapped the conducters together, soldered and taped them. If you're making a bunch of connections in one wiring harness, make sure you stagger the connections so the splices won't bunch up. Just un-wrap the friction tape along a length of the wiring harness to get access to the wires. When you are done, re-wrap everything with new friction tape to make it neat and secure.
Instead of a screwdriver, use a wire coat hanger-- it will be longer so you can find it better. I think there's a rubber grommet around the parking brake cable that you can poke a hole through. I found a spot near the main wire harness where there was nothing to interfere on either side, I drilled a hole and inserted a 3/8 grommet. That was big enough to get my wires through.
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