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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Pinging and oil consumption :rck:

my question is do I get the replacement parts from the dealer or are there better aftermarket gaskets out there?

TSB: 09-05-00
For the 5.2L / 5.9L:
1 04897383AC Package, Intake Manifold Flange Gasket and Bolts
1 05017208AA Gasket, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan
15 06034583 Bolt, Intake Manifold Plenum Pan
1 53030541 Gasket, Throttle Body'
2(AR) 04318001 Conditioner, Combustion Chamber
 

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Hughes and some others.... Hughes has their "Plenum Reinforcement Kit." I highly recommend it. There's some other one's out there, but I don't know anything about them, and haven't used them. DON'T go to the dealer/stealership!
 

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Yuo have a link for the Hughes, i'm about to buy an 01, with a 5.9. ANd to be on the safe side i'm going to assume the gasket was never done i'd rather be safe than sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)

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I'm planning to to my 99 5.2 this Thanksgiving weekend. (Along with distributor cap and rotor and plug wire rerouting and convoluting.) I've looked everything over in the Haynes and on the threads here. Can anyone answer these questions:

1) It appears I'll need to remove 2 throttle cables from the side of the throttle body. I can't see how that is done. Any suggestions?

2) Someone at Hughes said I should use some Blue RTV sealant at the corners of the manifold gasketing. Will it become apparent where this is to be applied? Is the blue ok? Or would the the red be better?

3) What is the best, and lest likely to damage a surface, way to get the gasketing off of everything? I'm thinking that with aluminum it's to risky to use a steel putty knife or something similar...right?
 

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One other thing...Is it necessary to remove the fuel injectors from the manifold? (This would require that I add injector o-rings to my list of items to get.)
 

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Eastcreek said:
I'm planning to to my 99 5.2 this Thanksgiving weekend. (Along with distributor cap and rotor and plug wire rerouting and convoluting.) I've looked everything over in the Haynes and on the threads here. Can anyone answer these questions:

1) It appears I'll need to remove 2 throttle cables from the side of the throttle body. I can't see how that is done. Any suggestions?

2) Someone at Hughes said I should use some Blue RTV sealant at the corners of the manifold gasketing. Will it become apparent where this is to be applied? Is the blue ok? Or would the the red be better?

3) What is the best, and lest likely to damage a surface, way to get the gasketing off of everything? I'm thinking that with aluminum it's to risky to use a steel putty knife or something similar...right?
1) The throttle body cables are easy breasy. Once you look at the TB, you'll have it figured out in about 5 seconds. They're both cables you can just pull on and get them off. Very easy (truck's in the shop or I'd go snap some pics).

2) If Hughes says use blue, then USE BLUE.

3) I see what your saying... metal / steel is a lot harder than aluminum. Take your time with it, and you should be ok with whatever you use. Try a plastic puddy knife, or a thick cloth.
 

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Eastcreek said:
One other thing...Is it necessary to remove the fuel injectors from the manifold? (This would require that I add injector o-rings to my list of items to get.)
Look, no disrespect here.... but you sure you know what you're getting into? This is an 8 hour install easy. I know there's plenty of guys on this site (and many others) that have done this install themselves, but most of them have some kind of automotive background, took a couple classes in high school, etc.... Just make sure you're comfortable diving head first into this. I'd hate to see you fubar your engine to save yourself a little money. It cost me $250 to have mine done. I wasn't comfortable with the idea of getting that far into my engine after I read over my Haynes, read over Hughe's instructions, looked over Chiltons, etc.

- And don't have a clue on your question... sorry!
 

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Eastcreek said:
One other thing...Is it necessary to remove the fuel injectors from the manifold? (This would require that I add injector o-rings to my list of items to get.)
I removed my injectors (the entire rail as a unit) because I wanted everything nice and clean. I looked at replacing the o-rings and they're $30 each so I reused mine.

I just used a steel puttly knife on my intake manifold. Aluminum isn't that soft.
 

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01_OffRoad said:
Look, no disrespect here.... but you sure you know what you're getting into? This is an 8 hour install easy. I know there's plenty of guys on this site (and many others) that have done this install themselves, but most of them have some kind of automotive background, took a couple classes in high school, etc.... Just make sure you're comfortable diving head first into this. I'd hate to see you fubar your engine to save yourself a little money. It cost me $250 to have mine done. I wasn't comfortable with the idea of getting that far into my engine after I read over my Haynes, read over Hughe's instructions, looked over Chiltons, etc.

- And don't have a clue on your question... sorry!
Nothing ventured...nothing gained I've always said. I've got a 4 day weekend coming up...I'm thinking I could swap the engine with that much time!
I agree...It will be an interesting and very involved project, however I've tackled worse. Besides with all the other information I've gleaned from this site and my Haynes and the TSB's, I feel quite prepared.
I'll let you know how it went.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Setting up a ring and pinion is the biggest project I have tackled. I have 5 or 6 of them under my belt now. mostly dana 60s. I plan on replaceing my 3.55's with 4.10's in the near future. I figure everythings else besides stroking an engine should be less involved.
 

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Road Dog said:
I removed my injectors (the entire rail as a unit) because I wanted everything nice and clean. I looked at replacing the o-rings and they're $30 each so I reused mine.

I just used a steel puttly knife on my intake manifold. Aluminum isn't that soft.
Ok...If I'm understanding you properly...It can be done leaving the injectors in place along with the rails, once the fuel line is disconnected of course?

My Haynes says to remove it all. I don't understand why it's necessary, although perhaps once I tear into it things may become abundantly clear and I may have no choice but to remove all the injectors. I wonder if they state that due to working around fuel that may be in the lines. I'm sure they don't want someone going back on them for them stating it's ok to leave the fuel rails in place in the event of an explosion. I'd like to avoid having to replace o-rings...at $15.64 per injector! (Dealer says "kit" contains 2 o-rings they they describe as being real similar to what NAPA has for $1.49 per injector!)

I'm assuming there wasn't any gouges when you were finished? If thats the case I'll probably do the same. Or, perhaps I purchase the gasket removal chemical that NAPA sells.
 

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i went to college for automotive repair and have a Degree in automotive science the first thing i was taught in class was not to be affraid of it. Most people dont like to get in there cause there affraid there going to wreck something.
Everything can be fixed one way or another an intake manifold job isn't a big deal it's just time consuming. Go step by step keep track of all the bolts you remove i like to have a piece a cardboard and i put the bolts in the cardboard and mark them where they came from that works for me. I use a lot of Brake clean to clean surfaces a little gasket scrapper get everything spotless i dont like working in filth.
When i first started out repairing cars i even took a few digital camera pics if the project was waiting on parts or was going to take a few days and such. Dont strain to get to bolts if you have to remove something or move it out of the way with Zip ties or whatever then do it in the end it will be more efficent. I mean these magnum engine are not very advanced by any stretch of the imagination dont be in a rush take your time set aside a day or two and you shouldn't have any problems. Even if you want to get in there and replace a few other parts while it's easier to get in there like cap, plug wires, Hell maybe even some Valvetrain improvments (just an idea). Just dont be affraid of your engine with a little common sense and some planning in the begining you can do this with no problems. Any hey if worse comes to worse and you dont want to be bothered then by all means just have it done proffesionally. Brian
 

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Eastcreek said:
Ok...If I'm understanding you properly...It can be done leaving the injectors in place along with the rails, once the fuel line is disconnected of course?
Yup, just grab the rail and work out the injectors. The injectors are attached to the rail with a clip and an o-ring. It's not a rigid connection.

My Haynes says to remove it all. I don't understand why it's necessary, although perhaps once I tear into it things may become abundantly clear and I may have no choice but to remove all the injectors. I wonder if they state that due to working around fuel that may be in the lines. I'm sure they don't want someone going back on them for them stating it's ok to leave the fuel rails in place in the event of an explosion. I'd like to avoid having to replace o-rings...at $15.64 per injector! (Dealer says "kit" contains 2 o-rings they they describe as being real similar to what NAPA has for $1.49 per injector!)

I'm assuming there wasn't any gouges when you were finished? If thats the case I'll probably do the same. Or, perhaps I purchase the gasket removal chemical that NAPA sells.
There's 2 o-rings, one for the intake side and one for the fuel rail side. The local parts stores have really limited selections and don't stock injector o-rings (just complete injectors). If Napa has them for $1.49 then why not replace them? The reason to remove them is because it makes cleaning much easier. I cut down the intake runners at the same time so there was lots of aluminum filings.

The putty knife/scrapper I used was extra thick with a beveled edge. Available at any paint shop and no gouging.
 

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Road Dog said:
Yup, just grab the rail and work out the injectors. The injectors are attached to the rail with a clip and an o-ring. It's not a rigid connection.
Ok...I'm at the 1/2 way point. So far I havn't removed the rails or injectors. I've kept all holes filled with paper towels so I'm confident evereything is staying debri free. I suppose if I were grinding down the runners I might go ahead and remove them, but since I'm not.. (I may even post some pictures later if I can figure out how it's done.)

One thing has me concerned....The Haynes manual says to put a thin coat of rtv sealant on the head side of the intake manifold large side gaskets. Hughes, via e-mail said the only sealant I need was some blue in the corners (...the reason for this obvious)

I'd like to know what procedure some of you used when you got to this point and what the results were...any leaks?
 

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I used a dab of RTV at each end of the rubber strips. The Chrysler instructions use Chrysler (naturally) gasket sealer, which is a spray on goo. It's a little sticky too so the gasket stays in place while fitting it all together. It goes on the head side of the gasket. It was around $4 a can.
 
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